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@auspaws
im quitting tumblr
ok see u tomorrow
this post is now 10 fucking years old

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writing tip:
if you push buttons on a keyboard, letters will appear on the screen. and with that power you can do anything
Β i think it was cruel to give lightning mcqueen a foot fetish, as he lives in a world where all feet are wheels. he has nothing.
sorry i wasnt talking to you i think
Last abronia shot for a while I promise, I just canβt get over how stunning he is. Heβs got great body condition and is the king of sassy side eye. I have lots of gecko and skink photos to be uploaded in the next few days as well.
How often should bloods be fed? I'm thinking of getting one next year maybe?? I've had ball pythons and I'm starting research on bloods
Something to know about blood and short tail feeding is that their meals should be smaller than you would normally think (an adult should be getting medium rats IMO, unless they are just really large specimens). Β They have an extremely slow metabolism as well and because they are very heavy bodied, itβs easy to overfeed in size or frequency and then end up with an obese animal.
Personally, I feed babies and juveniles every 7-10 days and sub adults and adults every 14-16 days. Β If I feel like an animal needs to be cut back because of weight gain, Iβll feed about once a month or drop the prey size (different snakes react in different ways).
Feeding GuideΒ - Kara is one of the most well respected breeders in the industry and her animals have never looked obese to me, so her caresheets are good to work off of.
I like leaner bloods. Β In fact, Iβm sure if I posted all of my pictures onto different blood groups Iβm a part of, there would be grumbling about having skinny snakes (I do have some skinny animals that were in bad condition when I took them but they are slowly gaining weight). Β Bloods and short tails should have a tear drop shape (think like a cross section), a defined spine, they should be able to curl up without a lot of visible creases/rolls, and the neck and tail areas should have a gradual slope (no hips and no pin head, though tails can get big when they are holding in poop).
Hereβs some pictures that also demonstrate that passing a weight judgement off of just one picture from one angle isnβt a great way to tell if an animal is overweight. Β These are pictures of a wild specimen and you can see how the weight distribution can change based on angles and how the animal itself is flattening out or tensing up!
X
Reblogging an older ask I got about feeding. I do mention I think medium rats are a good size for an adult short tail here. I wouldn't go larger than a large rat for bigger animals. Medium usually fits the bill but there are some very large specimens that a large would also be great for. Just depends on the individual animal. I also get my feeders from a small local company (run by a single person to tell you how small) and the mediums I get from him are very big haha.
@equagga @sabletsnakes Hereβs a picture of October lying on a flat surface. From this angle she looks fine to me. So I picked her up and put her in my lap and realized she sucks her sides in when sheβs held, and thatβs what I was seeing before. Could it be sheβs anxious?
Iβd agree she looks pretty good from this angle. Iβd like her a tad more filled out when sheβs full grown but not a lot. For a young lady, perfectly good.
Mine puffs up when heβs nervous but these guys donβt all express themselves the same way. She could be tensing when anxious, so sheβs locked-and-loaded, but since Iβve never known of one who does I canβt confirm it.
Thatβs great to hear! Thank you again!
We have a couple of ball pythons who tighten up like that when theyβre nervous, but like I said sheβs my first blood so as far as personality/behavior go I really have no other experience.
@eublepharis-nerdularius I dropped the ball on commenting on this because @equagga said basically everything I would have said and again, a perfect example of why judging weight off of photos can be extremely difficult with this species.
From the over head we can see that she does have a prominent spine (you can compare with the picture of the ivory I shared previously to see how the spine looks more pronounced between the two pictures) but she really looks just fine to me. Keep on your feeding schedule imo, sheβs young and she will go through phases of lean as she grows longer, nothing wrong with that!
I feel like bloods and short tails are extremely variable with how each individual grows and puts on weight. I have an animal who is almost two years and is smaller than many other two year olds Iβve seen, but Iβm not worried about her. Sheβs eating, sheβs drinking, sheβs active, thereβs no reason for me to try and cram more food into her just because sheβs smaller than other two year olds.
Itβs much more important for this species to develop their weight in a way that is natural for their own personal growth rate. I feel that power feeding bloods is a lot more damaging than other species when it comes to diminished lifespans and quality of life. But thatβs just my opinion, any animal will suffer from blowing up just because someone wants to breed them faster. I have four year olds going on five that I still havenβt paired up because I just feel they arenβt mature enough or have enough weight. But slow and steady, I donβt want snake balloon animals ;A;
Thanks for the advice! I havenβt altered her feeding schedule at all since talking to you the first time, and my girl is doing great. Iβm in no rush to grow her, and I may never breed her (although Iβd like to breed bloods someday, at least on a small scale) Iβve read care sheets that encourage overfeeding bloods, but I know their metabolisms are not equipped for that. I donβt need her to get huge as soon as possible, all I care about is that my girl is healthy. :)
Yes, youβre an experienced reptile keeper already (though we all go through nervous phases with new species I think haha!) And youβre doing great and have the right mind set. Any care sheets that recommend over feeding any species I always steer clear from (just like you!). I really tend to stick with The Blood Cells guides. Kara doesnβt advise feeding her adult short tails anything bigger than a large rat!
I feel weβre so used to more commonly kept species like balls where we rejoice when they eat anything or seeing retic keepers showing off βthat bulgeβ when they feed their giants pigs and sheep that newer keepers might be swayed away from a longer feeding schedule and smaller prey size when dealing with short tails. It doesnβt help that some of the big name short tail breeders have actually been recorded saying they want their females as fat as possible so they can breed faster and bigger clutches either (even though this has really negative impacts on health and quality of life) :( but most of the good people working with short tails will stick with smaller food and longer feeding schedules.
Itβs really important I think to get that advice out in the open to make sure we have healthy and comfortable animals. :) Canβt wait to see her grow up and color change over the next few years with you!
This comment is just me reaffirming to any followers I have that keep short tails or are thinking about it to stick with the above feeding advice!

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@equagga @sabletsnakes Hereβs a picture of October lying on a flat surface. From this angle she looks fine to me. So I picked her up and put her in my lap and realized she sucks her sides in when sheβs held, and thatβs what I was seeing before. Could it be sheβs anxious?
Iβd agree she looks pretty good from this angle. Iβd like her a tad more filled out when sheβs full grown but not a lot. For a young lady, perfectly good.
Mine puffs up when heβs nervous but these guys donβt all express themselves the same way. She could be tensing when anxious, so sheβs locked-and-loaded, but since Iβve never known of one who does I canβt confirm it.
Thatβs great to hear! Thank you again!
We have a couple of ball pythons who tighten up like that when theyβre nervous, but like I said sheβs my first blood so as far as personality/behavior go I really have no other experience.
@eublepharis-nerdularius I dropped the ball on commenting on this because @equagga said basically everything I would have said and again, a perfect example of why judging weight off of photos can be extremely difficult with this species.
From the over head we can see that she does have a prominent spine (you can compare with the picture of the ivory I shared previously to see how the spine looks more pronounced between the two pictures) but she really looks just fine to me. Keep on your feeding schedule imo, sheβs young and she will go through phases of lean as she grows longer, nothing wrong with that!
I feel like bloods and short tails are extremely variable with how each individual grows and puts on weight. I have an animal who is almost two years and is smaller than many other two year olds Iβve seen, but Iβm not worried about her. Sheβs eating, sheβs drinking, sheβs active, thereβs no reason for me to try and cram more food into her just because sheβs smaller than other two year olds.
Itβs much more important for this species to develop their weight in a way that is natural for their own personal growth rate. I feel that power feeding bloods is a lot more damaging than other species when it comes to diminished lifespans and quality of life. But thatβs just my opinion, any animal will suffer from blowing up just because someone wants to breed them faster. I have four year olds going on five that I still havenβt paired up because I just feel they arenβt mature enough or have enough weight. But slow and steady, I donβt want snake balloon animals ;A;
Malystryx, my smol Queen
Be the rat... BECOME the rat
Hereβs a feeding tip for those of you with picky/fussy eaters.
Do you have a snake that youβve tried just about everything with f/t (braining, scenting, different sizes, different COLORS even, etc) and the animal seems interested and strikes and coilsβ¦ and you are likeΒ βOhhhh yeah finally!β and you sneak out of the room and then check on them several hours later and there is an uneaten rat sitting in the middle of the cage taunting you?
Well, I have two ball pythons that do this and I was mentioning it to a few people and they told me to try this:
Once your fussy snake hits and coils the prey item, tug on the tail of the rat. Β Wiggle it around, pull on it (not like, a tug and war match of course) for a couple of mins. Β Youβll feel the snake coil more and squeeze tighter because they think the rat is still alive and struggling. Β Then, cross your fingers and sneak out of the room and see what happens.
Iβve tried this the last couple of feedings with these two animals and Iβve come back to check on them and thereβs no rat. Β Iβm particularly happy about my male ball that started refusing f/t over a year ago and we had to start feeding him live. Β And now heβs eaten twice with this method on a f/t feeder.
Learn something new everyday. Β Maybe this is like, old hat trick and everyone knows it, but I didnβt, so maybe this will help some folks.
how rude I am to lift up her hide and her paper towels to check on her the day after feeding The rudest human alive
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I think this animal is at an ideal body weight for this species.
'Ghost' Ivory
Stealing photo ideas from Kara
Picked Miss Mustard (Pyros) up for cleaning with no strikes! Still a very wary snake as you can see by her posturing but no strikes, just some tension, tongue flicking and hissing. Baby steps.
Agni by Julian Rossi Via Flickr: Arizona mountain king snake.

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These are all of my babies! (From top to bottom)
Perona / crested gecko Neera / black and white argentine tegu Gamabunta-chan / pacman frog Toothless / northern blue tongue skink Mugen / Sumatran red blood python Elsa / blizzard corn snake
You can find pictures of them under /tagged/scalebabes
Letβs talk about how amazing the color change can be as a blood matures
K-Mart Bloods & Bolivians
I was looking for something else in my archive but I feel the need to bring this up again.