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@arcademachinerebuild
Installed Hyperspin with video previews.Â

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Sideart done and mounted.
Well i had to take apart the whole thing, but it is well worth the effort in my opinion.Â
Here's some pictures of the sideart on both sides of the cabinet and some randoms. I don't think i'll be doing anymore to this cabinet. But i guess you never know.Â
Over and out.Â
Sideart and windex don't mix
So i got a couple more prints done at staples.Â
They look great.Â
So i used some spray glue from my friend dean but accidentally got it on the front side of one of the prints. Oh well, i applied the other one first and decided perhaps i can clean it with windex after the fact.Â
Note to self: Don't use windex or you take a chance of really screwing up the print! LOL. *FacePalm*
Well, so my arcade machine is totally apart right now and guess where i am going tomorrow.. Staples, to get yet another print done.. and perhaps some harder perfboardt to back my bezel because it's really flimsy and needs a proper backing.Â
Here's a picture of my other side art that turned out the way i thought it would.Â
Added some cup holders
Got these cup holders from Classic Billiards and Games in Langley. This is the kind that you will find on Fooseball tables. I wanted something that was made of metal but these felt tough enough and the price was right @ $10.00
Also, i really like the fact that they fold up and away once they are not being used.Â
I'm considering to moving my wall beer opener over to the cabinet as well.Â
Done the build
Well, i think i'm done the build. Working on fixing the game list and other minor software tweaks.Â
For the front face, I just used some 1/4" stainless bolts to hold the paper down. I did not end up using glue just in case i have some problems with the controls in the future.Â
I have to say that took a while to complete, but it was very fun. If i happen to run into a cocktail cabinet i might have to make that work as well..Â
(December 21, 2011)
(October 23, 2011)

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Ethernet jack in a box.
Thank goodness for garbage. I had this box around from when we cleaned up at work. I took it home and saved it from the dumpster.Â
This has some nice front mounts.Took the other mount off. only need one.Â
Front Face.
I bought another piece of Lexan 1/16" glass and thought i would put it on the front.Â
Turns out it was total fail. The gap does not look good at all. I'm taking it off and then gluing the front to the cabinet.Â
3/4" Molding
Just trying to finish the cabinet so it looks nice.Â
I bought the 3/4" molding from Quarterarcade.com and just used a rubber mallet to apply the molding.Â
Marquee mounting
Picked up a couple more pieces of 1/16" lexan to surround both sides of the marquee. It's looking good. This marquee was too big, so i took 2" off, 1" on either side.Â
Here's some cell phone pics for you. I forgot to charge the battery in my descent camera.Â
Interior Light.
I've been nerding out on some games this weekend. The machine is like 90% done, so i decided to take a break and play some games. It's been fun.Â
I was at Princess auto on saturday night to pick up the coin op lights, wire ties and loom. I also seen this flourescent fixture. At $8.00 I wasn't going to argue.Â
This would have been so useful in the last week, but will still be useful going forward i think.Â
I just simply wire tied it to the nice monitor mount that is in there.Â
Nice blurry picture for you.Â

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Super secret control panel
I decided to add 3 buttons at the top of the cabinet for TAB (Configuration), coin 2 and enter key. I figure, i have the buttons and the inputs on the board might as well use them then i will have no keyboard at all.Â
Lighted coin ops.
I wired up the the coin ops in my cabinet. Go all the way or nothing.Â
Recieved the Marqueesina today.
So i finally got the Marquee from QuarterArcade.com today. It looks to be in 3 star condition, Litte rough. I was expecting it to be printed on glass, but it's just a sticker.Â
Anyways it will be easy to cut and put onto a piece of plexi for in behind it.Â
Lights up nice.Â
Wiring the control door
I want to re-use the coin door for that authentic feel. So i just soldered them in parallel to each other and tested with the DMM.Â
Looks like it's working.Â
Mounting the control panel
Took the monitor out and the glass to re-fit the  control panel again, but this time i'm going to mount it properly with some brackets i had laying around and some nice stainless bolts.
So here's the underside, used some 1/2" screws to mount the brackets.Â
I drilled some holes out for the stainless carriage bolts that i am using.Â
Side note: I found all the remaining hardware for the yellow joystick. I was missing the white washer and the spring. I would have ended up having to buy a new stick if i didn't find this hardware.Â

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Re-Fitting the Control panel.
Hmm. I think i made a mistake here.. Looks like i am going to have to back the monitor and glass up at least 3/4" - 1" back from it's current spot.Â
Reason:
Well, I did not fit the controls in when i put in the monitor and the glass. Sort of a huge oversight on my part. Oh well, i'm a fan of doing things right so i'll just have to do that.Â
All will be well anyways, I have plans to cover up the sides with some artwork that i'm going to get printed at staples. I'll probably bondo those holes up and repaint the small spots. No big deal.Â
I am enjoying myself too much on this project to be stressed over it.Â
Re-Wiring the controls
Those blue connectors did not cut it. I felt the need to make a more rigid and permanent connection. So I soldered every single connector to each switch. Neat trick i learned from street cred, tinning the switch and the tips of the wire and then tack soldering them made the process go by quicker.Â
Tied the wires up. I'm going to need some more wire loom and small wire ties, Princess Auto here i come.Â