Africa Calling

From Zomba it was time to hit the lakes with Danielle, destination – Cape Maclear, one of the most beautiful locations I have ever been to. Mountains’ surrounding the lake, the lake is crystal blue and full of tropical fish. We camped at Fat monkeys for 5 nights and met some lovely people who are also on big trips over Africa. Monique and George from Holland who left 5 years ago and have travelled through 26 of the 54 countries in Africa. Win and Leanne from the UK who started their trip in Uganda and are making their way south. Dirk and Lieve were staying in a camp up the road, a lovely Belgium couple that have been travelling all over the world on and off for the last nine years, they made our trip through Africa look mediocre.  We also had Sumani and his wife from Palm Beach join us for the day, Sumani was a bar man and earns 25000 kwacha a month (£28), due to this he has never been able to make the one hour bus journey to Cape Maclear. We paid for him and Sandra to join us and treated them to a lunch by the lake. We had a lovely day, Chris was teaching Sandra to Swim as I looked after baby Kelly that is just 6 months old and very adorable.

Isaac took us on a lovely boat trip out to a small island that is surrounded by so many fish. It is literally like you are swimming in an aquarium, we then got to see a fish eagle come down to the lake and collect his dinner of small fish and then onto the other end of Cape Maclear where one of the first Missionaries was built in the mid 1840’s by David Livingstone from Scotland. There was also a 800 year old humongous sacred Baobab tree.

From Cape Maclear we went to Senga bay and camped at Cool Runnings for 3 nights, we met 3 lovely Australians who are cycling from Malawi to Nairobi!! We also got to spend some time with Sam the owner who is heavily involved in many community projects. Sam is a nurse by profession, able to offer free treatment to the locals from her backpackers. Sam also told us about a blood donation project that she runs, being a haematology nurse and understanding how vital it is to have a stocked blood fridge, Danielle and I signed up to donate. I went into the lab and was shocked to see a completely empty blood fridge. Generally when someone needs blood a family member has to be tested to see if they are a match and then donate. Most of the equipment had been donated to the lab by various countries. Before we could donate we had a blood test to check our blood group, HB level and also check for various diseases. We were both fine to donate and it was a quick and painless 15 mins that will save people’s lives. Again a small offering that we were able to give to this amazing country.  

Next stop Kande Beach, a beautiful beach by the lake with fluffy golden sands. It is hard to believe that you are by a lake and not the ocean. We camped here for 2 nights along with the Australians and then all headed to Nkhata Bay, where I am sat writing this blog. I think Nkhata Bay may be in my top 5 places we have visited on our trip, a village nestled among the cliffs overlooking a stunning bay where the water is again crystal clear. There was nowhere for us to overland, however Mayoka Village was able to do us a deal for the three of us (Chris, Danielle and I) to stay in a triple room for £6 each a night, can’t really grumble at that. We are also able to use paddle boards, snorkelling equipment and Kayaks for free. The Saturday night we went out for some local nightlife, the bar was vibrant and full of characters all showing there great dance moves. If only I could dance like they do, I gave it a go anyway. Sunday was a lazy day involving mainly eating and sleeping. Today we went to the local market and purchased some clothes made from the local material. 

Thursday, we will take Danielle to Mzuzu where she will get the bus to Lillongwe, ready to fly back to South Africa. Chris and I are going to head north to Livingstonia, we have to go up into the mountains to reach the town where David Livingstone settled, the views are meant to be stunning and well worth the 12km drive up the gravel track with 20 hairpin bends. We will let you know how we get on. I hope you have enjoyed the read and we will be in touch again soon.

We needed to cover 1500km through some of the worst roads in Mozambique. It took us 4 days, stopping over in Chimoio, Catapu and Nampula. The roads were like nothing I had ever seen before and this was the national highway!! Pot hole after pot hole after pot hole. Followed by endless road blocks with army checking all the documents are in order! We were going through some of the poorest areas of Mozambique, children in rags would run to the road trying to sell what little vegetables were in the area or simply to ask for money. In recent years there had been destruction in the Gorongosa region, The rebels had started a civil war, leaving the country devastated. As you drove though, you were able to see old burned out buses that had been targeted along with more recent overturned lorries that had simply been travelling too fast on the dangerous roads! We thought the days would never end, one day driving for 14 hours! Needless to say I felt heartbroken at all we had seen and wondered if life would ever get better for them. To get to the island you have to drive over a 3km single track bridge with a few lay by points to allow vehicles to pass. The island is a world heritage site. This was where the Portuguese first landed. Beautiful grand buildings dating back 100s of years lined the cobbled streets along with ruins and shacks in Makuti town. Blue shores surround the 3km long island. We weren’t able to camp on the island so we stayed in a guest house and had our car locked up in a garage to keep him safe.

Dubbed as paradise island, a UNESCO world heritage site, what we saw was quite the opposite. It is the island that the world forgot. The poverty was rife with street children sleeping rough on the cobbled streets. Whole families sleeping rough also. Clothes hanging off the children as they are dressed in what clothes they can get hold off, pop bellies poking out as they are clearly malnourished. All of this happening while us westerners had on offer fancy hotels and restaurants where we could eat what ever we wanted. This place made me feel uneasy. It felt so wrong to be swanning around while the locals had nothing and had to sit back and watch in the hope you may bring them some of your left over dinner as you pass them by. We were meant to stay longer but after 3 nights we wanted to leave, we had been told horror stories of some westerners living on the island for more sinister reasons. They were taking advantage of the children in ways unimaginable. Apparently it is also know by the local police and nothing is done. How can this be called paradise island when all of this is going on! With only stories to be armed with it’s difficult to know how to make a change. However, I do think a few emails will be sent to various organisations.

Next stop Pemba, we used this as a place to just chill. Camping at Russell’s place for 6 nights. A beautiful beach where the water is crystal clear just over the road. However, we had lots of rain while we were there but I guess this allowed us to just sit still and relax after some gruelling travelling. We met many expats who use Russell’s as a social ground and a few backpackers passing through.

After 6 nights we were ready to make the 1000km journey into Malawi. We had to go back down to Nampula and spend the night to break up the journey. We then decided that we should try the route less travelled into Malawi. There were two routes from Cuamba that we could have taken. Mandimba which was a 4 hour dirt track or Entre Lagos that is on a 2 hour dirt track. Everyone was using Mandimba. Us… no let’s use Entre Lagos. After 2 hours on a bumpy single lane dirt track we arrive at the border post. We get stamped out of Mozambique and then a few metres up the road we reach Malawi. We go into the small building that is immigration, he asks for our visas. We need to buy our visa at the border and he is saying as the post is so small, they don’t issue visas here. He wanted to send us back in Mozambique. After 2 hours of deliberating, and a small fee we are able to get a temporary letter that allows us to get a visa from Mangochi the following day. We are through, we head to Liwonde through tiny villages with people cheering as we drive by. Muzungo (white people) can be heard as the children chant from the sides. We have arrived in the warm heart of Africa.

We stayed one night in Liwonde before heading to palm beach on the lakes to relax for a few days before the arrival of Danielle in Blantyre. In palm beach we had some clothes that had been donated to us for the children. In the beginning there were only about 5 children, however, word spread quickly and within 10 mins we were surrounded by children. We measured up the children as best as we could and tried to share the clothes as fairly as possible.  We wished we were able to bring in a truck load of clothes as so many children are in need, however, the clothes we were able to give out were greatly received.

The day had arrived and it was time to collect Danielle from Blantyre airport. We had stayed over the night before so that we were not in a rush the next morning. We headed straight for Mount Mulanje, staying in a room for £1.35 each, we explored the bustling village and Chris sampled some of the local cuisine (chicken testicles). The following day we set off with our guide Moses to hike the mountain. After a gruelling 4 hour hike we reached our hut for the night. Set up on the plateau overlooking the mountain, pure tranquillity.The next morning we made our decent down the mountain, with jelly legs this was some what challenging, beautiful all the same, weaving through the forest and stumbling along wonderful waterfalls. It was well worth the pain for the beautiful views. 

From here we are heading to Domasi, Zomba where Chris volunteered 3 years ago . We will update you shortly with how we get on. 

From here we headed north of Durban to Ballito, we camped at the Dolphin Resort making this home for a week. A sea town with a bit of hustle and bustle, a few bars and restaurants and most importantly, somewhere for Chris to watch the rugby. We met a lovely Dutch family Jiske and Jurrianne travelling with their 2 children Hugo and Sophie age 3 (very adorable may I add). The day they arrived we experienced one of the maddest thunder storms I had ever been in. The lightning lit up the sky in shades of purple and pink while the thunder roared and crashed above us. For shelter we had the awning from their motor home and decided we would drink wine and flying fish to get us through. A few hours and many laughs later, the storm passed and we were able to safely retreat back into our tent.  The heavy rain continued for a few more days and so we stayed stationary. We were in the tail end of cyclone Dineo which hit Tofo region in Mozambique pretty bad. Soon enough we would see the destruction that it caused.

We travelled with the Jiske and Jurianne for another 5 days heading north to St Lucia and Hluhluwe before travelling into Swaziland. We were able to do a really great self drive in the iSimangaliso wetland park. We saw lots of Giraffe, elephants, buffalo, antelope and zebra. On our way back to Sugar loaf camp in st Lucia we crossed over the river and to our amazement were able to catch hippos having their daily swim down the river. Thankfully we were viewing them from the safety of the bridge and not ground level. Hippos are one of the most underestimated animals of all time. They are notoriously quick on their feet and know to attack humans frequently.

After iSimangaliso we headed to Hluhluwe where we camped at the Bushbaby Lodge. We relaxed in the pool and then the following morning made an early start to the game reserve. Once again we were able to get up close to elephants, giraffe, zebra, wilder beast, buffalo, many antelope and we must not forget the rhinos. I was amazed by the sheer size of them, some of them weighing up to 3 tons! Another successful day at a game reserve and we decided we would make the border run to Swaziland. I don’t think we had really accounted for how long it would take to get there... Finally at 10pm we found our destination, Milwane Nature reserve.

Waking in the morning we were able to take in the beauty of Milwane. Zebra, Warthog and Duiker roamed free. The trees surrounding us were tall reaching up into the sky, offering plenty of shade to get respite from the sun. We went on a hike around the reserve in the hope to spot crocodile in the lake. It wasn’t until we were leaving that we were able to see a crocodile off for his morning swim.

Heading north we made our way to Maguga dam, one of the largest in Swaziland the infrastructure was quite impressive, despite the rain the dam was still only at 20%. We camped for our last night with the Dutch at the Maguga lodge. The whole area to our selves overlooking the dam was a perfect setting. We held a little party for Chris’ pre birthday night, even had a cake and balloons courtesy of Jiske. The only thing that was quite was concerning was the sign stating to be aware of the hippos and crocodiles!! Needless to say I was hyper sensitive to all the sounds around me that night.

The day of Chris’ birthday we went white water rafting in the Great Usutu River. There had been a lot of heavy rainfall and so the river was full. The safety speech at the beginning was enough to make me want to turn back and get on the bus, but it was Chris’ birthday and so I thought I should really face my fears and give it a go. The first couple of hours were really fun; we rafted down a working wear and got into sync with our paddling. I don’t think any amount of paddling would have prepared us for the rapids that would face us in the afternoon. The guides had decided to not show us the rapid before we went down in the fear that I would say I didn’t want to do it. We tipped over the edge and were faced with waves of water crashing into us. Two brits on an inflatable croc... this wasn’t going to end well. We negotiated the second wave and it sent us sideways, crashing into a large rock that we got stuck on. The force of the water sent us flying out of the croc, trying to get orientated I surface from the water and shout for Chris to help me. The guides are laughing finding it all very amusing, they drag me back to the river bank where I am able to get my breath. Chris had managed to swim himself in and decided he needed another go down the rapids. This time he went with a guide and again they get over the first wave and then the boat gets tipped vertically and out they come, floating down the river. Thank goodness for helmets and a life jacket is all I can say. I am thinking that has to be the worst one, but then later that afternoon we had to take climb with our croc over rocks to bypass a raging waterfall, the rain is coming down and the rocks are slippery. The guides make it look so easy, jumping across the rocks with our croc on his head as if we goat clinging to the mountain. Myself and Chris however, are sliding all over the place. The final large rapid of the day and there is a torrent of water raging down there. Keep straight, come on keep straight we can do this, and then we hit another rock, and get spun sideways. I luckily manage to stay in the boat but Chris comes flying out again. He resurfaces and to make matters worse I go over his head with the croc. Get me off this croc, I have decided that grade IV water rafting is not for me and I will leave it for the adrenaline hunters. Needless to say that night we treated ourselves to a room in the hostel to recover from the day. 

The next day a much more relaxing day, we went to Hilwane Royal National Park, we stayed in a beautiful traditional rondavelle. We booked onto the sunset safari ride and at 4pm off we went. Within 10 mins we come across 6 rhinos grazing, we are able to get so close, all I can think is please don’t charge. Their giant horns protruding into the sky, they really are beautiful. We travel around the park for another hour and just as we are about to go back we get to see what everyone has been waiting for...lions, not just one but three. They are napping and hiding in the tall grass so we are able to just see them but still we have seen lions.

For now it’s goodbye to Swaziland and onwards to our adventure in Mozambique. We are prepared for the border we have everything that we could possibly need, they are particularly fussy at the border and on the roads so you need to have all your paperwork in order and the car in good condition. We cross with no problems, a few runners trying to earn some money but we head straight to immigration and get through within thirty mins. Our first night to break it up we stay on Macanetta Island at Tan ‘n’ Biki, then onwards to Priar do Bilene. Palmerio Complexo would be our home for 3 nights. It was a great place to get into the swing of Mozambique life and also bulk buy the famous tipo tinto rum (6 bottles for £14). We experienced quite heavy rain while we were there; thankfully we had the gazebo for cover.

Next stop Chidengule, 160km up the road. There is only one main road heading to the north of Mozambique and so as long as you keep the ocean to your right, you can’t go wrong. Again we have some more rain in Chidengule so we only camp for two nights at the sunset lodge. Onwards and upwards to Tofo, which is where I am now. As I sit and write this I am sat looking at the turquoise ocean, golden sands and blue skies. The rain has ended.

We have been in Tofo for 13 days all ready, the break here is just what we need to refuel the batteries. Camping is so cheap, £3.50 a night so we can’t go wrong. Tofo is only just recovering from the cyclone that hit. As you drive around you still see so much damage, houses that have had the roofs blown off, straw houses that have been flattened. Giant trees that have fallen from the extreme wind and rubbish is everywhere. People are still working so hard to get things back in shape. Tofo is paradise and brings a lot of tourism to Mozambique so people need to work quickly. Thankfully the locals aren’t forgotten, there has been a lot of community projects and fundraising to help people rebuild their homes and lives. We donated a load of vegetables and rice to a school to help feed 800 children. About one week into our stay we are warned that more heavy rain and strong winds are coming. We take down the gazebo and prepare for the 50kmph winds. The sea becomes wild and waves double in size. All of the rubbish the initial cyclone took into the ocean gets spat back out on to the shore; the once beautiful beach is covered in plastic and debris. Operation clear up begins, Chris and me decide that we will get the rakes from the caretaker and clear the beach, slowly more people join and before we know we have a team and within two to three hours the beach is looking much more appealing. Less plastic in the sea = happy fish.

In a couple of days we are heading to Vilankulos where we will explore the Bazarutu Island. I won’t wait so long to write next time. To be continued....