Myanmar, previously Burma, was my favourite country to travel around in South East Asia. I met some of the kindest, most generous people I’ve ever met – which was made even more special since many less people speak English than in countries like Thailand and Vietnam. Everyone was really excited to see me (by and large, of course) and that makes all the difference when you are travelling alone.
Everyone has their own suggestions and ideas for a good 28-day itinerary or route around Myanmar; this is the route I took, with a few changes with the benefit of hindsight. I entered Myanmar overland from Thailand and used every day of my visa. I travelled pretty quickly, and at the height of the dry season: this had advantages and disadvantages, and not every person travels in the same way. The best advice I could possibly give would be to travel in your own way, and not get too bothered about what you think you should be doing.
Another really key bit of advice for travelling in Myanmar (and South East Asia generally) is not to get stuck down in plans. Things here can change at the drop of a hat, so don’t be like the Germans and book your hotels a week in advance, and then get grumpy when your boat is delayed or the bus takes 5 hours longer than expected.
Day 1: cross from Mae Sot to Myawaddy. Depending on how early you cross, you could get the taxi straight to Hpa An. I spent the night, which was pretty expensive since there is only one hotel in town. There are some nice temples though, which I checked out the next morning.
Day 2: taxi to Hpa An. I paid 8,000 KYT; I know someone who paid 6,000 KYT but there were two of them so 12,000 KYT total. I’d probably pay less now, I’m much better at haggling… This taxi took nearly all day, but it passes through some good scenery and you should expect to stop for new passengers regularly – sit back and enjoy your first taste of Myanmar. I left Myawaddy at 12pm and got into Hpa An in time for sunset. The taxi driver dropped me right outside Soe Brothers, which is where everyone stays.
Day 3 – 4: Hpa An. Things to do include ‘the tour‘ and climbing Mount Zwegabin (horrific but awesome, do not do with a hangover).
Day 5: Hpa An to Yangon. Another full day of travel, basically. There are lots of good night markets in Yangon for when you get in, including the Chinese market on 19th and the many fried fish restaurants along The Strand.
Day 6 – 9: Yangon. I arguably spent too many days here, but I really liked the city and had an awesome time. Make sure to check out the Shwedagon Pagoda, and take a turn around the Circular Railway. I got got halfway before I ran out of time, but it was still really fun.
Day 9 – 10: Yangon to Kalaw. This involved a night train, the army, and 3am samosas with a new friend who wanted to show me his music. Did I sleep? No. Did I nap relentlessly and buy lots of train noodles from women with half as many teeth as you’d probably expect? Yes, yes I did.
Day 11 – 13: Kalaw to Inle Lake (Nyaung Shwe). This is a famous trek, everyone does it. Do it. It’s awesome. I loved seeing the change from arid mountain to lush lakeside farms. I stayed at Golden Lily in Kalaw and bought the trek from them and I have no complaints. It cost 40,000 KYT, which included three full days of meals and two nights rest. It did not include the beer – bring extra for the beer.
Day 13 – 15: Inle Lake (Nyaung Shwe). It’s beautiful, obviously. I cycled around instead of doing tours, because I am cheap and hate organised tourism. The tours look pretty fun though.
Day 15 – 16: Inle to Mandalay. Another night bus, another 3am arrival. I did not enjoy Mandalay the first time round, although I had a super time when I came back here a few days later. I also didn’t realise you could get a bus direct from Nyaung Shwe to Hsipaw, which would have been much more sensible.
Day 17: Mandalay to Hsipaw. A 3am start this time, in order to take the train over the amazing, awe inspiring and justifiably famous Goteik Viaduct. Definitely worth it, 10/10, would recommend.
Day 18: Hsipaw. Another place where people do treks. I did not, because I hate people. Instead, I made friends with a dog and went to some hot springs by myself, where I saw in my clothes and read an awesome book called “Ark” by Stephen Baxter.
Day 19: Hsipaw to Pyin Oo Lwin. Very early bus, so I basically got the full day here. The best attraction is the Dattawgyaik waterfall (also called Anisakan Falls), which is the finest waterfall I’ve ever seen in my life. It’s a sensation. Please go. The national botanical gardens are also very nice, with a cool aviary and a surprising amount of education. I went the following morning.
Day 20: Pyin Oo Lwin to Mandalay. I left Pyin Oo Lwin in the early afternoon and got a taxi/bus/truck thing (you know it when you see it) for like 1,500 KYT which is MUCH cheaper and MUCH MUCH more fun than the tourist bus.
Day 21: Mandalay. Actually, I went to Inwa which is a town south of Mandalay, but you get the idea. Tourisms.
Day 22 – 23: Mandalay to Bagan. This was not meant to be a two-day voyage but the boat got stuck on a sandbank. What can I say, it happens. It was awesome.
Day 23 – 24: Bagan. I have to say, I wasn’t the hugest fan of Bagan. Most people love it, but I guess I found it was far too touristy and expensive. I prefer towns like Hpa An where there is only one hostel and there’s a really cool vibe of exploration and excitement. Bagan felt a little too… middle aged.
Day 24 – 25: Bagan to Yangon to Mawlamyine. Phew-ee, this was a slog. 7pm bus, changing in Yangon at 5am, and then getting into Mawlamyine around 2pm. Just in time for a nap, and then up to the ridge for sunset. Truly spectacular, by the way.
Day 25: Mawlamyine. Ok, so Breeze Hostel runs a tour. It’s in Lonely Planet, it’s on travel fish. It’s quite shit, definitely overpriced.
Day 25 – 26: Mawlamyine to Maungmagan (via Dawei). Another night bus, another early morning change – this time onto a motobike taxi (sorry mum) that took me through the mountains to the sea under the stars (sorry not sorry).
Day 26: Maungmagan. Ok, so on this day my phone got stolen, but IF IT HADN’T it would have been an awesome day. Beautiful deserted beach (apart from that shitty child who stole my phone), thousands of crabs, bright bright sun…
Day 27: Maungmagan to Dawei. So I spent most of this day in the police station, which in retrospect was still quite an experience. But yeah. Woo.
Day 28: Dawei to Kanchanaburi (Thailand). I made it! I was home. Well, back to the land of 7-Elevens, fruit shakes and Chang.
So what do you think? Where did your travels in Myanmar take you?
28 days in Myanmar: route and advice Myanmar, previously Burma, was my favourite country to travel around in South East Asia. I met some of the kindest, most generous people I've ever met - which was made even more special since many less people speak English than in countries like Thailand and Vietnam.
