Day by Day in San Francisco
The following is a day-by-day account of our trip to San Francisco and the surrounding area. It's lengthy, but comprehensive. At times salty, but honest. And I did my best to hit the highlights, showcase the characters we encountered, and leave out the snoozy. I hope you enjoy!
Sunday, Dec 27 - San Francisco
After a late arrival last night, we hit the town with fervor in the morning. Apparently too much fervor because we seemed to be the only living souls in the city. I think we were still on Eastern time while the rest of California chose to sleep in on a Sunday. 7:00 am cable car ride? We’re there.
San Francisco is way more manageable than I imagined. I don’t know what I imagined really, but this isn’t it. It’s quite charming and clean. The homeless are courteous, and these hills are beautiful, yet challenging. San Franciscans should all have super hot bods from walking these streets on the daily.
I wanted to hike across the Golden Gate Bridge, but Sarah wasn’t convinced. After some back-and-forth, we compromised with a bike ride to Sausalito. Had either of us known we’d be biking eight miles today, we probably wouldn’t have worn what we did (me some tight jeans; Sarah a winter coat with a fur collar), but we managed OK. The view from the bridge and the subsequent downhill coasting to Sausalito was worth the price of admission. We ferried back to San Francisco—which, was an ordeal, hundred of bikes on one ferry, oy—and it couldn’t have been more relaxing.
Just as we untangled our bikes from the masses and disembarked, Sarah’s tire burst and the tube jammed her wheel. It was unrideable. Of course this would happen. Everything had been going so smoothly. I called the bike rental place, and they asked me to carry the bike the rest of the way. What?! “I assume this comes with some sort of discount then?” No, was the answer, and I insisted they come pick up the bike. With age, I’ve become slightly better at not being taken advantage of—especially over things I’m paying for. In the end, some dude named Alex, super nice, came and retrieved the bike. I’m still not convinced everything’s taken care of. They seemed sort of not with it. Remind me to check my credit card statement to make sure they didn’t overcharge me.
We had dinner at Jardiniere, which was entirely too fancy, and then we walked ten blocks trying to get a cab. San Francisco, you’re a beauty.
Monday, Dec 28 - San Francisco - Napa
We picked up a rental car for the rest of our trip and hit the remaining items on my San Fran wish list: Chinatown, Golden Gate Park, the Full House house. That last one was from Sarah’s wish list. Then we scooted across the Golden Gate Bridge into the mountains to get that classic view of the city with the bridge in the foreground. It was worth the detour.
Heading north toward Napa, we decided to take a side trip to Muir Woods. As we descended the mountain into the valley, we noticed a lot of cars parked on the side of the road. Strange. Then we arrived at the Muir Woods’ visitor center and realized that everyone and their entire cavalcade of strollers decided to go to Muir Woods today. All parking lots were full, and there were cars EVERYWHERE trying to find a spot. Several hating-their-lives park rangers kept directing us further and further away until we had been driving around for an hour just for a parking space…to look at some trees. We frustratingly decided it was not worth it and went to Walgreens to buy some consolation snacks. Bad mood remedied.
Oh, and the bike shop from yesterday called to ask if we still had our bikes. I knew they didn’t have their act together. They seemingly only sort of bought my story of nice Alex picking them up, so I’ll definitely be checking my bill for any shenanigans. I figure this isn’t the last of the bike saga.
On to Napa! Well, Santa Rosa. We aren’t cool enough to stay in Napa. Plus, Sarah found a good deal on TravelZoo for what turned out to be a fantastic hotel. Vintner’s Inn is wowing us. I keep saying it’s the nicest place we’ve ever stayed. Sarah likes it, but she doesn’t agree. We also got a bunch of free perks with the TravelZoo deal, so we stayed at the hotel and cashed in our wine and dinner gift cards. We love deals! Tomorrow, we hit the wineries.
We woke up this morning in the comfiest bed, like, ever. It’s seriously akin to sleeping in butter, which doesn’t sound appealing as I write this, but it was, and I can’t think of a better way to describe it.
Our first stop was Pride Vineyards in the mountains surrounding Napa. The drive there was nauseating, and I needed a few minutes to recover after we arrived. Nothing a little breakfast wine can’t solve!
Our tour guide was friendly, and there was another couple from Chicago in our group. I tried to get chatty with them, but they were fancy (read, dressed WAY too nicely for a butt-crack-of-dawn winery tour) and didn’t seem interested in talking. They lived in the West Loop, which is where I want to live, so I kept asking them where there apartment was exactly, how long they’ve been there. Maybe I creeped them out. I eventually got the message and went back to focusing on the fun and funny tour guide.
I can’t say that I LOVE wine. I drink it, and it’s good, but I don’t think I’ll ever be that person that sends back a bottle at a restaurant because it was too “fruit forward” for my liking. Then again, Pride was serving up some helpful tips on tasting wine—some common man, non-judgmental, don’t be “that guy” tips—and I was digging it. In the end, we bought two bottles, they waived the tour fee, and we headed to lunch in St. Helena.
In the afternoon we went to Silverado Winery, which was just SO FUN. Walt Disney’s daughter owns it (well, owned it. She died last year), so the place was a real stand-out with all that Disney capital backing it up. It was on a hill in the middle of Napa Valley, and the view was just perfect. Patricia was our tour guide. She was fun, flirty, and fifty (I’m guessing). Sarah said she wants to be like her when she’s older. Patricia immediately showed us a painting hanging in the winery called Glimpses of Nymphs. She kept saying it. “Glimpses of Nymphs. I just LOVE that name. Glimpses of Nymphs.” I’m pretty sure Patricia either painted this painting or is a nymp(o) herself.
The tour was super great, and the tasting was fun. We didn’t buy any wine, but we chatted up another couple on our tour. They were from Maryland so we were telling them how we were just there for Christmas. They hadn’t listened to Serial, and they live where it takes place. We encouraged them to get on that. (Speaking of Serial, am I alone in imagining Adnan, Hay, and Jay were all WAY more attractive than they actually are. Thanks, Google, for ruining my murderous imagination. And thanks, Sarah Koenig, for repeatedly and incorrectly yukking up their attractiveness.)
We ended the day with dinner at Chalkboard, and we both agreed that we need to be richer to truly enjoy Napa’s bounties.
Wednesday, Dec 31 - Napa - San Francisco
Happy New Year’s Eve! We checked out of Vintner’s Inn—bye, butter bed!—and had breakfast at Auberge du Soleil overlooking Napa Valley. It was, of course, delicious, and the view of the morning sun hitting the vineyards was so Napa.
Since it was NYE, we hit up Domaine Chandon, which makes sparkling wine. That’s NYE-sy, right? Because the winery is owned by a corporation and not a family, it definitely wasn’t as charming as the vineyards we went to yesterday, but it was still fun. Our tour guide, Lisa, was another fun, flirty fifty-something, except Lisa clearly dabbled with the Botox. And lip injections. And maybe lip implants? I tried my darnedest to focus on what she was saying, but I mainly stared at those giant, glossy lips. I’m pretty sure she’d lost all feeling in them because she had strings of spit hanging between her lips every time she opened her mouth. I just wanted to take a napkin and clean her up. But she was nice!
We headed downtown Napa proper (note: Napa Valley is an entire valley that encompasses multiple hamlets. The town Napa is at the edge of Napa Valley. It was confusing for me too.) for lunch, and then back to San Francisco for our NYE plans.
(I should note here that we ended up going back to Muir Woods on our way to San Francisco, and it was SO WORTH IT. My recommendation is to go early, or at least on a non-holiday.)
In an effort to find something unique for New Year’s Eve, we booked a tree house in the hills of San Francisco through Airbnb. When Sarah first pitched this idea to me, I wasn’t sold. I’m more of a cocktails-please, i’ll-have-lemon-with-my-water, can-you-focus-on-my-shoulders-during-today’s-massage kinda guy. But after seeing the pictures, I agreed that it’d be a fun experience. And it was!
It’s literally a tree house this guy, Doug, built for his kids, and now they’ve turned it into a rentable “room”. It was a nice tree house. Like, it had doors and windows and heat, though it did creak when the wind blew, which wasn’t terrifying at all. Doug and Linda were also super nice. We had been texting with them on the days leading up to our arrival. They gave us a tour of our lofty dwelling, including the bathroom, which was not in the treehouse, but instead was attached to their house. A prominent sign in the bathroom read “Limit your showers to five minutes”. We’ll see about that. Then they left us to enjoy our evening.
We settled in for a night of resolution-making, 2014-reflecting good times. It was super fun. We watched Kathy and Anderson on CNN (hilarious), chowed down on snacks (delicious), and debated what our resolutions should be (it’s always a debate). We also downed a bottle of wine we bought the day before. Oops.
Thursday, Jan 1 - San Francisco - Big Sur
New Year’s used to be such a big deal to me. I’d stay up late to watch each time zone greet midnight. Last night, I think we were in bed by 10:00 pm. We did watch New York and then I think we made it to central time before we cozied in the loft. We’re old.
This morning we got ready, which proved challenging in our tight tree house. Note to future tree house dwellers: pack light. I took my sweet time in the shower. I’m paying for this experience, and I shan’t be told what to do. Plus, it was cold outside, and the warm water felt good.
As we headed out, we texted Doug and Linda to say thanks and to let them know we were leaving, as we were instructed to do. They never texted back. Are they mad about the long shower?
The ocean will always be creepy to me. I don’t care what anyone says, when you’re in the ocean, you’re in the SAME BODY OF WATER as sharks and killer whales and those icky light rod fish that live 20,000 leagues under the sea that they only have like two pictures of. No thanks.
But Big Sur is fantastic. Mountains meeting ocean is a classic recipe for awesome. With every turn of Highway 1, I’d say out loud “Wow. Wow. Wow. Gorge. Gorge. Gorge.” I also kept singing “pacific coast highway” to whatever tune struck my fancy. There’s an actual song called “Pacific Coast Highway”, right? The artist is escaping me right now. Anyway, Sarah was thoroughly annoyed.
There’s also this urban legend about something called the Dark Watchers. Apparently they’re these hill people who live in the woods and come out and, I don’t know, eat children? We read about them in a tour book, which was NOT the best thing to do before spending time in this remote part of the country.
We drove south to Hearst Castle, which is basically the California version of the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, South Carolina. It’s big and fancy and unfinished. The views alone are worth a visit. Then back north for a stop at Sand Dollar Beach. I kept saying that we had to stop at a beach to commune with nature, and we did. Sarah hadn’t been feeling the Pacific Coast Highway until we had some beach time. A beach always kills.
Lastly, we stopped at Nepenthe, a restaurant overlooking everything Big Sur has to offer. Apparently this is like the only place worth going to on Highway 1 because my Instagram was blowing up with people recommending it. A few coworkers had mentioned it, too. We went, OK?? Aaand, it was awesome. We watched the sunset, had dinner, and talked about whether we should quit our jobs and join the Dark Watchers.
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All in all, a fan-flippin-tastic trip. Our goal was to take advantage of our holiday time off, and I'd say mission accomplished. We explored another part of our country, relaxed, had new experiences. And now it's back to reality (and Tobias!)