It is finally over, and we have raised $100000 which will fund 4 research grants this year in the areas of diabetes, depression and dementia. This is a great result. But what we have also achieved is a legacy, the attention of over 1000 people who have had the message delivered about the need to increase activity and reduce intake of processed sugar to help with avoiding or deferring impacts of the 3D’s. The daily press these days has so many articles evidencing the impact of the 3D’s eg dementia is the third leading cause of death in Australia ( second in women ), that there is no excuse for not being aware and then doing such simple cost free things as walking and reducing sugar intake to improve quality of life. For me the route is walked, the singing over, ( well maybe ) and I confess to a tinge of melancholy. But first the medical stuff.

Physical

As I have informed previously, I lost 15 kg on this walk, commencing at 94 kg and finishing at 79. I have now repaired myself to 84kg and am doing light weights 2x 1 hour a week, yoga 1xhour a week and walking 1 hour on 3 other days( sometimes only 1) I finished unquestionably fitter and stronger and healthier. In particular I was amazed at how fit I became from a aerobic point of view. I literally marched up hills, sometimes very steep and for long periods, and wouldn’t have blown out a candle. This was definitely the physical result that impressed me the most, more than the weight loss. My blood pressure reduced from 140- 145/80 to 125/70 and has been as low as 118/70. I am pretty chuffed about that as well. There is also no doubt as well that the long walks in forest improved the timbre in my voice.  

Mental

Attached are MRI scans of my brain pre and post the walk. There are two sets of slides. Slide 1 shows connections with a seed placed in the default mode network ( one of the major cognitive networks ) with threads showing number and strength of connections. Slide 2 is processed raw data showing positive and negative correlations. I am advised that these indicate greater synchrony of the resting state networks in the front part of the brain and that it could be said that this is manifested as greater cognitive control with more focus. The results from the neuropsychiatry tests and EEGs were also positive although not statistically significant. The conclusion I am informed is ;

“Cardiovascular exercise has been demonstrated to increase the brain’s cognitive reserve leading to improved or restored mental sharpness. Executive functions, discriminative capability as well as a speedier processing of various sensory inputs are observed. Results from Glenn’s functional studies in the MR scanner, EEG analyses and psychometric testing demonstrate a trend in the same direction. This is in line with what has been previously published showing that fully established significant changes are observed first 6-12 months after the start of the physical program.

Now I am not sure if you understand this but essentially it says I can read directions in a guide book, sing, write poetry and walk all at the same time and with a higher degree of proficiency than when I left. What it also says of course is that activity like walking is undeniably good for you. I hasten to add that on my walk I ate no processed food that I know of. Not one sip of sugared drink other than the naturally occurring ( naturally ) sugar in beer and wine and the only added sugar in those delicious strawberry framboise in France, chocolate in Switzerland and gelato in Italy. Oh and the coffee. Apart from that niente, zip, zero,nothing. Overall, it is patently obvious to me and backed by measured data that my walk benefitted me physically and mentally.

Ok so what about the 3rd dimension? Was there a spiritual awakening? Well not really. However 66 days is a long enough time to reflect and to contemplate. A real sabbatical in life. I feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to have had the time, and family support, to do this and at the same time humbled by the simplicity of it. Walk, eat, drink, sleep, walk etc every day for 66 days. So in the time of the walk and more so since I have reflected upon  my journey and the considered life generally and its problems and pleasures. Problems there is no magic bullet, they are the same as they have been for eons, poverty, inequality of opportunity, wars over territory, faith or money. I have no peculiar insight to solutions nor do I pose any. But pleasures. That is something on which I can opine. I have discovered the pleasure of idling rather than sprinting, contentment without overachieving, overworking, or over reaching, and all not because of my age, situation or attitude, but because of the environment I found myself in ( if you want to change behavior change the environment ) and my observations of where I saw happiness. I feel more relaxed, and attentive to doing what little I can to restore or perpetuate intergenerational equity, ie leave the world for the next generation in as good or better shape as it was for me/us. Our thinking in so many areas is (mis)guided by selfishness, unhealthy expectation and  group covetness, instead of the  virtues of selflessness and satisfaction with less.

Apart from this I intend to continue to berate rugby referees, dismiss most greenies as shallow thinkers, drink in moderation 5 days a week, and to excess on the other 2 – only joking Dr Judith and Leda- eat offal- it is a duty- and of course sing and write poetry.

I genuinely feel my life has been enriched by the walk. France was particularly challenging for me until I got savvy and fit, it stopped raining, the waymarking improved and viable accommodation options appeared. None the less the part of France I walked through has magnificent old cities, culture and history not to mention splendid food and wine. And if you do not have tough sections or challenges the enjoyment of other sections is diminished. France was also where I met a few, very few, other pilgrims, mostly French walking in pairs or three’s so they had someone to talk to and invariably eating cheese. In all on the VF I only met 17 other pilgrims and apart from Jane Trumper , the Australian girl who ran the VF, I am the only one that I know that started in Canterbury and walked ( and only walked ) the whole route to Rome. France was also my first encounter with Michele Taylor from Oregon and her friend Lynn. Michele and I walked a few days together in France and one day in Italy. Michele was a kindred soul and great company. It helped she could speak Australian.

Switzerland is walkers paradise, the waymarking and tracks are so good even a pluto could do it backwards and not get lost. Well maybe depends on which Pluto. The scenery is magnificent, especially up through the Great St Bernard pass, the food boring ( as I have observed unless you like fondue ) and the wine pretty damn good with vines dating from Roman times. The wine in Switzerland surprised me and I learned that very little is exported, they drink it all themselves ( nearly, I changed that for a few days). I learned to yodel in Switzerland so that will always bring a tear to my eye and a grimace to your face.

Italy I thoroughly enjoyed. I was fit and stormed home, familiar with the people, language, food. They love pilgrims in Italy and call out to you and want to buy you caffe, panini, vino! Additionally the whole route in Italy from Aosta to Rome has only one boring bit, in the Po Valley, the rest is simply stunning and way way better when you walk it rather than drive or take il treno. Waymarking is good to better also.

What all this is saying to you is if you are even half thinking of doing this then do it, and do it now. The VF despite being Europe’s first pilgrim walk is still relatively formative with little organization and very few people eg only a few 10’s or 100 leave each year and fewer still complete and fewer again in one go. For the record I did it in 66 days straight at an average 30km a day. I think a sole venture is likely a more soul one, but if for whatever reason you walk in a group of 2 or 3 or more, I recommend you stagger your starts to walk on your own and meet up every 2 or 3 days. I did not use any electronic aid such as satnav but discovered on return that I had it on my phone. There is likely an award for this but I confess to being pretty pleased that I only used maps ( ESSENTIAL IN FRANCE ) and my trusty compass as well as Alison Raju’s well written  ebook guides I took on my kindle. I think I would say take satnav however. For anyone thinking of going I am perfectly happy for you to contact me directly for discussion and possibly advice. Best contact for this is

[email protected]

Finally my last homily. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Thanks to all who shared my journey

Mia  bella moglie, Leda ( who depite being at home was with me every step of the way mopping my brow)

The staff at the Hunter Medical Research Institute in Newcastle NSW

Enigma Communications and Chris Day in Newcastle

Alison Raju, author of the guidebooks( and essential companions)

Sheila and Guy Parry in Italy for your hospitality ( where pray tell me would I have slept that night if it were not for you?) and your warm Italian friends

Jane Trumper ( read trouper ) who ran the VF passing me on the way. We shared a welcome meal and vino

Danilo Parisi the boatman for the Po river crossing,( a good Rugby man !)

Elena and Mateo at the agriturismo in Gallina ( more life savers!)

The Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome in London

Darryl White at Colchester House in UK, who sped me on my way

Michele Taylor, of Eugene Oregon and Katleen Coels ( a pleasure to meet you and know you as I finished) from Belgium :

And to the following who so generously assisted with getting my story out there

 ABC Radio and especially Carol Duncan

NBN Television

Well dear patient readers, I have now had 3 months since I finished the via Francigena. This has allowed me time to reflect, compose my conclusions and recommendations, have my battery of post event tests and to adjust to life as it was before I left. Truth is I do not believe I have entirely adjusted and life is not as it were before. I believe I have been fortunate to do something that has been life changing for me in all 3 dimensions, physically, mentally and spiritually. Now the spiritual change may be more akin to the Monty Python version meaning of life,but there is a deep side to questioning existence that emerges when you are pensive and had the obligatory biera grande and 500ml of wine ( oh ok,1 liter ).   More on this in the final blog.

I tell you what , I am totally underwhelmed by the response, read lack of, to my poetry. I cannot believe that those countless hours composing, sometimes under the influence of absinthe and other furtive intoxicants, got nothing. I acknowledge your financial generosity dear donor, but have a lower opinion of your appreciation of my bard capabilities. I have read and reread them, and I rate them.

Same goes for the singing, "give it away", "shit music, shit video", " stick to walking", and they are the nice ones. I have feelings you know.

Ah well, you cannot please everyone. Don't buy the book or download the "Best of the VF" CD, which incidentally is not under my name but that of "Rhinestone Cowboy"

Lovely to be back in penultimate touch,

In astoundingly good post colonoscopic health.

As ice transforms to life, Conducted through the rus An ancient ingenuity Long not confused by strife.

A belvedere of gaia, Alongside energy and urge A prosperity of purpose and grit Now manifest by wire.

A wend to the level, A grid of road and field Following a Cisterian dictate To countenance the devil.

A vista shaped by God’s hand, Of water wealth and light Evoking pride not envy A blessed coloured land.

Now woven into the people A sense of continuum A nuggety resolve More steely than any steeple.

A polyglot of race colour and creed, United by faith wine and food Where churches and cascinas Sit side by side in deed.

A line of castellos on a hill, Solid brooding yet lively Old and new in balance Preserved by strength of form, and will.

Closing to orchards nuts and trees, An increased hum of density A modernity wrapped Around 2000 years of frieze.

To reflect upon the feeling Dimensions manifest or to appear Is a satisfaction There has been some healing.