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@wrathavenue
not a bot, just boring
mostly sfw. idk where you work.
just a scrapbook of random internet: cute stuff, art stuff, clothes stuff
plus random projects and completely pointless rantings
expect sweary words.

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fyi
this post has been up for five hours and has two notes. i think tumblr shitcanned it because it has pictures of women wearing bras on it. very cool. no censorship message, just vanishing it
AHHHHHH someone put all the info from the now-extremely-hard-to-read, 10+ year old bra post into one nice infograph! THAT POST WAS MY BOOB BIBLE. Yay Boob New Testament!
@aspect-rei
further FYI: it is EXTREMELY common for breasts to be different shapes and different sizes. if you find that your breasts are different to the point that it's hard to find a bra, if your cup sizes are extremely different, you may find that masectomy aids are helpful - ranging from variations on bras to partial forms or shapers!! a lot of insurances in the US will aid with cost if you ask your doc for a script, and a lot of docs are willing to write that script bc not only is breast support critical, the emotional impact is no joke. you don't have to have had a mastectomy to use these aids!! it's ok!!
here's one place that will let you see what is available but there are a number of sites -
https://www.mastectomyshop.com/
also ms-demeanor mentioned this recently but the ABraThatFits reddit scene can sometimes make it seem like if you dont fit the recommended bras or they aren’t comfortable for you, its because there’s something wrong with you. that is absolutely not the case. sure sometimes you can fuck up taking a measurement but also you know what makes you comfortable and what doesn’t. in my limited observation, these posts above are most helpful to medium and large size breasts and can be (not always) less helpful or pointless for very small breasts. idk i just wanted to make it clear: you do not need to wear a bra unless you *want* to, are being forced by circumstance to do so (such as clothing surveillance or policing at work), or need it for support or functional/medical reasons.

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Postcard from Patti Smith, in Paris to Robert Mapplethorpe, in New York
Charming 1891 Queen Anne Victorian in Minneapolis, MN has 5bds, 2ba, 3,900sqft, $350k. (Zillow's est.: $332,400)

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Artwork Copyright © Tyler Spangler
Shop: shoptylerspangler.com
The Boringest Haul:
- uninteresting grey jeans to wreck since I’ve outfatted all my carefully-built apoc pants. These reeked of fucking Downy Summer Breeze or whatever bullshit, so are currently soaking in a detergent/bleach solution and will probably need to hang outside for the rest of the summer just to approach a state of Not Making Me Vomit if I try to wear them
- a really nice horrible green cotton jacket that will barely need weathering. I love it, it’s gorgeous -- except it cost a whopping TWENTY DOLLARS. For USED CLOTHES. Savers and all its affiliates, you are a pack of scammy bastards, for real.
- a very long orange leather belt of no particular utility, except the belt buckle is shaped like PONIES so you know I had to get it. The little knobby thing that sticks through the leather is screw on (wtf) which is probably why this was thrifted, so tomorrow’s project is to apply some lock-tite asap
- a gross nerf rifle that has been handled by 4,000 germy children.  Now washed; drying in a bucket in the kitchen; awaiting sanding/painting/etc. I absolutely suck at painting weaponry though, so this’ll be a fun project (no it won’t)
Other Things:
- scum green thread so I can finish that dress that doesn’t fit and thrift it
- ubiquitous sand-color mesh fabric, $6/yd
- some cute buttons that, surprisingly, did not cost $9 for three
- actual linen was SIXTY DOLLARS A YARD. Wool does not exist here. Even a wool/poly blend was $30. So that was a big nope. But they did have this holey, fishnetty-stuff, which I wasn’t sure I could justify purchasing even one metre of, but it turned out since it was from 2022 it was 50% off so, after a celebratory dance and thanks to the sewing gods, I bought three metres (which I now dislike the texture of and cannot bring myself to use)
1924 c. Evening gown from the House of Madeleine Vionnet by Lesage. From Art Deco, Art Nouveau & 20th Century Decoratif Arts Group.
Scott Shiavone over at Fashion &... did an excellent piece on Madame Vionnet, one of my favorite 1920s designers!
I hate how doing any kind of yarn craft basically means you can only produce plastic clothes or it's going to be 300$ in yarn minimum. Every yarn has some acrylic and the natural stuff is so wildly expensive. I would love to use 100% natural fibers but the options are limited
God, yeah. The price of natural-fiber materials is insane.
My average budget for like a full silk gown, trim and notions included, is around $200- and that's ONLY because I live near a discount fabric store that gets bolt-ends from big fashion houses and sells silk for like $10/yard. Wool is insane, for some reason- that place only has coating (heavyweight) and suiting (lighter but feels like plastic even though it's not), so making a dress or anything not outerwear from wool involves shopping online and some painful spending.
I just bought 6 yards of wool to make my Dream Dressing-Gown. It was $210 for JUST the wool- I still have to get lining fabric, possibly an embroidery machine pattern, embroidery thread (because my friend who's generously letting me use her machine only has polyester and rayon). Part of that was shipping from freaking Poland because finding a website that has non-stretch, dark green wool at any weight below "snow gear" in the States is nigh impossible.
(Or that actually discloses the weight in a meaningful way; that's another problem I've encountered. "Brushed wool!" Great, but how heavy is it? "It's wool!" Not helpful. It's like they can't fathom wanting to use wool for anything besides heavy outerwear. Which they probably can't, because that's all we're accustomed to seeing it as nowadays.)
Like I'm tempted to blame militant v*gans for the inaccessibility of silk and wool, but honestly, capitalism was probably just waiting for the excuse to turn all our clothes to crap. I doubt there's been enough outcry about them to push those fabrics out of reach, the way there has been for fur and leather (to clarify: pro-treating animals humanely, anti-plastic clothing, not opposed to the use of aforesaid materials if those animals are properly cared-for and humanely killed).
At least you can still find cotton and some linen things in stores- for now. They're still more expensive, though, and limited in what weaves are often seen. Cotton velvet, for example? Forget it.
It's so disturbing and frustrating.
some people in the notes have rightfully pointed out that clothing used to be more expensive relative to our income, and people generally had less of it. that's broadly true- but it doesn't fully explain this phenomenon
if you were to tell someone in the 1880s- or honestly even the 1950s, let's be real -that there was. ONE. fabric store in which you could purchase woolens in ALL OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS? they would think you'd lost your mind
there used to be entire shops just for wool fabric. I'm not making that up. there was one in the oldest surviving commercial building in Boston, now a Chipotle, at one point. there used to be a market for it, a system for processing it and getting it to that market. wool used to be a Big Industry
now there is, without exaggeration, one singular place where you can buy wool fabric. in the entire city. and the selection's not even that great- it's almost exclusively suiting, because that's pretty much all we use this incredibly versatile and once-prevalent material for nowadays. you might find some merino base layers for hiking and such and a few tiny, expensive specialty shops online catering to historical costumers, but for society at large...it's just suits and heavy coats. if even that
(and no, don't "but climate change!" me. tropical-weight wool is a thing. wool gauze is a thing. also that's not quite how climate change has worked re: everyday temperatures here in New England. but I digress)
we use it for two (2) things, in the main. there is one (1) shop in which you can buy it, in a major US city
this isn't just The Way Things Have Always Been, guys
Yes I feel the struggle in my bones. And you're absolutely right, wool wasn't this expensive historically compared to other materials. For a long time in Europe wool was the cheapest option. Wool was less expensive than cotton. Cotton was in fact a very expensive fabric in Europe particularly before industrialization of cotton which happened over the course of a century from very late 1700s to late 1800s. Cotton is a sensitive plant, which doesn't grow well outside specific conditions, and it's production from plant to fabric is notoriously labour intensive (hence all the slavery used for it to this day). So naturally cotton was an expensive fabric especially in Europe, where it can't grow at all, but to lesser extend in South and East Asia too where it grows naturally. Wool was comparatively cheap for very natural reasons. Woolen animals strive in most climates, including in Europe, so wool is easily available. Wool is also comparatively easy to process. Growing woolen animals does require land and resources, so that's what causes most of the cost, but compared to other fabrics making wool fabric is not very labour intensive even without industrial production.
There's several reasons why wool is now comparatively so expensive. You can't automize the most costly part of the wool process, growing the animals. This means that while mechanization has made wool production cheaper, it's never going to be lucrative business as turning oil to fabric or producing cotton with which you can cut the costs of the most costly part (picking cotton) by using slavery. So producers will prefer the materials with which there's room to cut costs and grow profits still a bit more. This also makes wool more profitable, so it's a win-win situation for them. Because there's less wool on the market, it has higher demand compared to the supply, meaning they can ask higher prices. It's not a bug, it's a feature.
It's true that across the board clothes are less expensive. The prices have been dropping for decades. And people also own more clothing that before. But comparatively wool is more expensive than it was before. Even after cotton became very cheap and the standard fabric, it took a while before wool was turned fully into luxury. I have inherited several vintage clothing from my grandmother, mostly from 1960s-70s. One of them is a gorgeous circle skirt made from a very fine and light tightly woven wool, that's almost sheer. You don't see that kind of wool today anywhere, I'm not sure if anything like that is even produced anymore. But it wasn't an expensive dress when it was bought, it was a made by a local Finnish clothing factory, which had affortable prices that most working class people could afford. That was of course different then that what it's now. Now it would probably be fairly expensive, certainly not fast fashion prices, but people could afford that since the clothing would last and they didn't need to buy new clothing to replace the old so often. People also knew how to mend clothing and how to properly take care of them.
Additional notes about how you get wool:
Wool is almost a by-product of the meat industry, like leather is. Sheep are not reared for their wool. They grow it anyway, and you literally have to shear them for welfare reasons, or this happens (or if you're unlucky, this WARNING: GROSS)
The bit that you really can't mechanise is getting the wool off the sheep. It's skillful, back-breaking work, and looks like this:
Good addition!
You also can't mechanize the sheep itself. The sheep require all sorts of resources, like food, vaccines, shelter etc to grow and produce the wool. Even with the human labour you can cut costs if you simply don't pay them (I mean if you are an evil company), but there's simply limits how much you can cut cost with raising of the sheep.
I live in Finland and we have plenty of lambs here and you'll get lamb meat at any mid sized grocery store. The lamb farms throw huge amounts of wool to land fills every year. Wool is still expensive here and wool fabrics are not widely available. So no, it's not just a US thing and lamb not being commonly eaten doesn't explain it. Most fabrics in western countries are exported anyway. The most recent reason in the long trend of why wool is so comparatively expensive is related to that. The global free market economy of neoliberalism has made local fabric production in most places very unprofitable. For example there's only a couple of small fabric factories in Finland left, when still 100 years ago Finland was a big fabric producer. Natural fibers need land area so their production not nearly as easily centralized as the production of synthetic fibers, which makes them much less able to compete in the global market.
I have been lowkey considering reaching out to people who raise sheep and just telling them I will just take the wool that they'd be otherwise throwing away.
Yes I will have to clean and comb and process it. No I cannot spin very well and my weaving skills are mid at best. But WOOL.
We can invent some kind of new rugged scruffy textile, which may not be beautiful, but since whoever runs Rick Owens' brand was charging four figures for ordinary-ass sweatshirt fleece and Balenciaga came out with those pathetic plastic prison shower shoes, the bar for "fashion" has sunk so low that it's been melted in the earth's molten core
Basic Glitch pattern from Modern Groove quilts. No idea how I'm going to quilt this one!

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Ingrid Ankerson · How To Disagree · From the series “Communication Patterns” · Hand quilted 34 × 48 inches