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WWX learning (through ghosts spilling?) of JC's sacrifice and confronting him, all wounded confusion that JC has interiority that he hid from WWX and JC baldly claiming that's a lie and JC would never do anything so stupid.
Ideally with, idk, LWJ or WN blinking and staring at him because that's not how it works and yet JC is clinging to his denial as if his name was WWX for dear life.
The ghosts were fucking lying to you, Wei Wuxian, take you husband and go away.
(Wei Wuxian, in a move anyone could have predicted, refuses to stay gone. He has not obeyed one order from JC ever and it turns out he's not ready to start now.)
behind door number 1: WWX hollering that JC IS stupid! JC is the stupidest person WWX has ever known!!!!!
behind door number 2: JC who feels undermined by WWX's judging wariness, WWX's eyes following him with distrust. (It doesn't actually undermine JC, the Jiang Sect and JC's reputation are too well-established for that, but it does fuel rumors of WWX having beef with JC.)(Half the Jiang disciples are spooked and the other half is annoyed at what in any other circumstances they'd call stalking)
wwx seeing himself in a mirror, seeing "his" lan robes and mxy's unchanged face on himself, and thinking about how his day went, about his life in gusu as hanguan-jun's husband and finally realising - this is not my color, this is not my life, this is not me, this is not who i am
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GOSH DANG IT WHY IS IT MIDNIGHT I NEED TO WATCH THAT-
Istg if it's that tower Cub built. Also: the vex banner is now officially in S11. All they need is for one of them to wear a vex skin to get the old vex head design...
How to Make Your Own Binder that Fits Well and Looks Good
A while back I was in need of some new binders and thought hey, I bet I can make one way cheaper than buying it from somewhere (especially cus some of the ones Iâve bought in the past didnât really fit right). Except when I started looking for a binder patterns online, I was very surprised that I really⌠couldnât find many that looked very nice lol. Most of them had really wrinkled necklines, or didn't bind well, or just overall looked weird. A lot of the patterns also required a serger, which I don't have.
So I just said fuck it and made my own pattern! And it ended up being relatively easy! And the binders fit REALLY WELL and are comfortable to wear, even for long periods. The neckline doesn't show under shirts with loose collars, and the bottom hem doesn't gap or stick out. Here's me wearing one:
(plus I was able to make myself 5 of them for a total of like ~$50.)
So I figured I could throw together a guide to help out anyone else who wanted to make their own binder but was dissatisfied with the patterns available!
Disclaimer: This tutorial is going to assume a baseline level of sewing experience, and also will require access to a sewing machine. It is not a complicated pattern, but it will most likely require some tweaking and adjustments after you make the first one. Donât be afraid to make alterations to make it fit better!
This tutorial is for a gc2b-style half-tank binder. It could be altered to be a full-tank binder, but all instructions will be for the half-tank design.
Materials needed:
Stretchy fabric, probably listed as 'athletic fabric' (I use this kind from Joannâs. Most athletic stretch fabrics should work, look for around 80% nylon/20% spandex blends)
Stiff fabric (I use this shirting cotton because I like how lightweight it is. If you want something a little stiffer with more structure, you can use a cotton or cotton/poly blend twill like this. gc2b binders use twill for theirs.)
Lightweight fusible interfacing (I use this kind) (get FUSIBLE not sew-in)
Fusible webbing like Pellon Wonder-Web (this is technically optional but it WILL make your life easier when youâre sewing - just make sure to get the kind with the paper backing!!!)
âBut kiwisoap thats 4 whole kinds of materials, surely I donât need that many!â Ok sure, you can probably get by without the fusible web and interfacing, but consider: they are both dirt cheap (im talking like $1-2/yard), they will make it much easier to sew the final product, and will give you an overall better-looking result. This tutorial is written with the assumption that youâll use them.
"How much fabric will I need?" Measure the circumference of your chest below your armpits. Add 6 inches just to be safe. This is the yardage of stretch fabric youâll need, and should give you enough material to make at least 3 binders without much excess left over. You will need around half as much stiff fabric.
Other supplies:
Big Paper (for drawing the pattern)
Flexible measuring tape
Sewing machine
Iron
Pins
Step 1: Measuring
You will need 4 main measurements for this pattern.
A) Measure the circumference of your chest just below your armpits, then divide the number in half. This will be the widest part of the pattern.
B) Measure from the top of your shoulder down to where you want the binder to end. For most folks, this will usually be around the natural waist (narrowest part of the torso), about 3-6 inches above the belly button. This will be the overall height of the pattern.
C) Measure the distance from below your armpit to where you want the binder to end. This will determine where the arm hole starts.
D) Measure the circumference of your waist where you want the binder to end, then divide the number in half.
So for example, after dividing A and D in half, my measurements are 17", 15", 7", and 14.5".
Next:
Subtract one inch from measurement A - This will help provide some compression. You might need to take it in even further depending on how it fits, but one inch is a safe starting point. I take mine in around 1.5 inches.
Subtract half an inch from measurement D. This will help prevent the bottom edge of the binder from gapping. Again, you may need to take it in more or less, depending on your own body.
Add 1.5 inches to measurement B and one inch to measurement C. This is to account for the hems and armhole placement.
This makes my final measurements
A = 16"
B = 16.5"
C = 8"
D = 13.5"
From here on out, we are only going to be working with the measurements that we have added/subtracted to, NOT the ones we initially took.
Step 2: Drawing the Pattern
You will need a piece of paper large enough to accommodate the entire pattern. This may involve taping multiple pieces together, or using a piece of newsprint, etc.
I recommend folding the paper in half to ensure that you get a symmetrical pattern. However, this means you will need to divide measurements A and D in half again, or else youâll end up with a pattern thatâs twice as wide as it should be!
Also note: the pattern is drawn with the seam allowance built in! You donât need to add any seam allowance.
To draw the pattern:
Begin with your folded paper. Measure and mark B and C on the paper, and draw a line extending across the paper. These will be your guidelines.
Measure and mark A and D along the middle and bottom guidelines, respectively. Remember, the paper is folded, so you only use half of the measurement for A and D.
Draw a loose curve connecting the endpoints of A and D. If needed, you can also just draw a straight line between the two.
Mark the opening for the neck hole. Depending on your size, it will measure around 6-8 inches across at the top (remember to divide this in half for the folded paper) and about 5-6.5 inches deep. (mine is 6.5" across and 5.5" deep) Draw a curve to connect the two points. This part will take some tweaking and adjusting to get it to look right lol.
Measure the width of the strap - this should be somewhere between 2.5 - 4 inches wide. They will end up about 1/2â to 3/4â narrower once you sew them. Draw the line at a slight angle, as shown.
Connect the endpoint of the strap to the endpoint of line A with a curve like in the diagram.
This will be the pattern for the front piece.
To make the back piece, trace the front pattern, but make a very shallow curve for the neckline instead of a steep one, as shown:
The last piece is the stiff front panel. This is what provides the flattening effect of the binder. To make the pattern, trace the front pattern again. Trim 3/8â in on the sleeves and neckline, and 3/4â to 1â along the bottom. This gives a flatter hem. Then trim the straps shorter by a few inches. This helps the binder lay flatter along the shoulders.
When you're done, you should have 3 pattern pieces that look approximately like this (stiff panel shown overlaid on the stretch fabric to show how it fits together).
NOTE: If you want more compression or just want to make it a bit sturdier, you can add a second panel of stretch fabric to the back piece. Just use the bottom half of the back pattern (from the widest part down to the bottom hem) to cut out another piece of stretch fabric. Attach it to the back piece with a strip of fusible webbing and a zig-zag stitch along the top.
Step 3: Putting It All Together
Once youâve made the patterns and cut out the pieces of fabric, you should have something that looks like this:
The next step is adding interfacing and fusible webbing. Use your pattern to cut out 3/8" strips to fit on the top of the straps for both pieces, and to the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hem of the back piece, as shown:
If you want to add it to the bottom hem of the front piece, it will help keep that hem flat when sewing it down later, but it's not essential.
If you choose to also use fusible webbing (WHICH I RECOMMEND), you will apply it to the stiff front panel similarly to how the interfacing was applied, ~3/8â strips along the neckline, sleeves, and top of the straps. Cut out two strips for the neckline and sleeves, because we'll use those later too.
Iron the strips onto the front panel as shown:
Once it's on, just peel off the paper, position it webbing-side down on the stretch fabric, and iron it to fuse the two pieces together so everything stays in place while you sew. THIS MAKES IT WAY EASIER TO SEW.
After the stiff front panel is fused to the stretch fabric, youâll sew the straps of the front and back pieces together, then join the pieces along the sides. Pin the hell out of it to keep everything in place -this type of material is VERY prone to puckering.
When sewing, USE A ZIGZAG STITCH. A straight stitch will NOT WORK for stretch fabric. I adjust mine to 1.3mm long and 3.5mm wide which has worked well. If your machine doesnât let you adjust stitch length or width, well. That sucks, I donât really have any advice.
After you sew the front and back pieces together, you can add more fusible webbing to the front panel to help hold the hem down flat and prevent it from puckering while you sew it. Just add the strip, peel the paper off, then fold the hem over and iron it down. This part isnât really necessary, but it does make the hems look nicer. If nothing else, I would recommend adding it to the neckline.
After that, you just fold & pin all the hems and sew them up with a zigzag stitch, then go over the raw edge at the top of the stiff panel (where we cut the straps shorter).
And thatâs it! Youâre done! And now you can make your own binders whenever you want!
And hey! If you used this tutorial and wanna throw me a dollar or two on ko-fi, I wouldn't complain.
Hello! I made a dress from scratch for the Renaissance Faire. It took me six months to make the chemise, hoop skirt, under skirt, over skirts, French knot embroidered bodice, crown and jewelry. I am very excited to wear it this year despite how serious I look in the photos! (2025)
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I designed a set of convertible floor cushions that turn into a footrest!
They can be buttoned together in a stack (footrest mode), buttoned together in a square (big floor cushion mode), or used individually (cushions mode).
I started off with this big 1-metre square foam floor cushion, which I liked but was hard to store when not in use.
I wanted to keep the option of a big floor cushion without it having to just lurk behind the sofa. At the same time, I wanted an extra footrest. So I decided to find a way to make the cushion convertible in some way.
For a while I toyed with having it fold up like a monopoly board. But I couldn't come up with a way to construct and secure the cover without bulky zips everywhere.
So then I considered just making four separate cushions that could be secured together in different configurations. For a while my best idea was to have something like a belt or strap, which could either go around the circumference of the 2x2 floor layout, or around the stack. But I didn't like the idea of having to deal with that band as a loose separate item.
@cassolotl had the genius idea to use loops to chain up the sides to keep the cushions together in a stack. I was doubtful at first because it didn't solve the problem of attaching them together in the floor layout. But then I figured out that adding buttons in the right place relative to the loops would make it possible to secure all three configurations. Which I'll demonstrate at the end of the post!
So the first step was cutting the big cushion down into four equal pieces. Well, the first-first step was trimming it down to clean up the section that was destroyed by my rabbit, who liked to burrow against the cushion and somehow managed to shred the foam *through* the cover.
I cut the foam with a hand saw, which was quite easy and satisfying.
Then making the cushion covers. I made strips of straight-cut binding and tucked loops into the corners while I sewed together the side pieces of the cover.
I decided to add piping to the top for aesthetics and structure. I've never done piping before but it wasn't too bad to get the hang of.
Because I dislike both zips and buttons (not specifically sewing with them, but just generally coming into contact with them in life) I decided not to bother making any closure on the underside of the cushions. Instead I just made the bottom piece of the cover in two triangles with a diagonal opening across the middle. A bit of strategic reinforcement stitching at the corners got the balance between making it possible to insert the cushions without the flaps flapping around too much.
Now for the details of the loop/button system. Each loop is positioned halfway up the height of the cover, at the corner. Each cover has two loops, at diagonally opposite corners. The loops extend 10cm, which is the exact thickness of the cushion foam.
Exactly 10cm to the right of each loop, I sewed on a big wooden button, also halfway up the height of the cushion.
For separate cushions mode, each loop is simply wrapped over its own neighbouring button to keep it from waving around or catching on things.
For big floor cushion mode, the cushions are butted together with their loop-corners touching each other around the perimeter of the square.
At each connection point, the loops from *both* cushions are wrapped around the button exposed on the perimeter. This holds all of the cushions together around the outside, and friction keeps them from slipping around in the middle.
For footrest mode, the loops are chained up through each other - the bottom cushion's loop is wrapped around the second cushion's loop, which wraps around the third cushion's loop, which wraps around the top loop.
Then, the top loop wraps around its own button to secure the chain.
I'm seriously SO proud of this system. It's so versatile and all three modes work perfectly!!!
"I only use AI for research" honestly I hate you more than the people who think they are married to chatgpt.
You are enabling AI companies to become gatekeepers of knowledge and giving them the ability to censor whatever they don't want you to see. You are abandoning your ability to find information independently and giving a corporation the power to decide what is worth knowing.
How do you not see the clear, immediate danger of that? While we're in the middle of a fascist takeover? It genuinely makes me sick.
Like⌠you can get far better research results from just a simple google search (IGNORING the stupid AI function added at the top of results nowâŚ), as well as scholarly databases!
So Hank Green got caught using AI and itâs a whole huge blow up, and I really donât have much interest in adding to the pile on.
However, I do think this case is great example of what happens when smart people decide they can use these systems âresponsibly.â
Letâs put aside the plagiarism and the energy use for a second (not that these donât matter, but theyâre not relevant to my point at the moment) and pretend these systems were made with entirely properly obtained info and ran on only solar, but otherwise were entirely the same. If youâre a person, you might think âokay, Iâm going to only use this to come up with ideas for my next paper: Iâm going to do all the research myself and the writing, Iâm just gonna brainstorm topics.â
The thing is, even if youâre trying to limit use to just âbrainstormingâ the chatbot isnât going to limit itself to just brainstorming. You might ask it âwhat should I write about involving Greek historyâ and it may suggest âthe plague of Athensâ but itâs also going to suggest some âbasic infoâ on the plague of Athens that you might end up picking up and deciding your topic is. Itâs going to provide you with âresearch.â And even if you decide to check that research yourself, thatâs still setting you down a specific path you might not have picked organically.
And speaking of double checking its âresearchâ, fact checking is a time heavy process. Not only now do you have to read the original text the bot provided, but you also have to compare it line by line with the summary the bot provided. Thatâs more time than it would have taken to just read the article by itself. And with any time heavy task, people are going to get lazy. And in original research being lazy might mean skimming a paper or an abstract, chatbots allow you to be lazy without looking at the article at all.
And soon enough, despite telling yourself you were only going to use it for brainstorming, you have offloaded topic generation, research and eventually even drafting because thatâs what these bots are intended to do. They are not meant to serve as research tools or help brainstorm or serve as a bouncing off board: they are built to encourage maximum engagement. And that means if you go at them with the best of ethical intentions, they are built to tempt you to use them as much as possible, regardless of whatever line you drew in the sand for yourself.
Anyway, my main thought here is you are not smart enough to outwit the dopamine machine. It wants your attention and nothing more. Do not assume you can resist just because you know whatâs under the hood.
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Lan Jingyi arrives at Lotus Pier and asks Jiang Cheng to teach him how to swim, how to fish, how to know when the lotuses ripen so he can harvest them... and so on for two whole weeks.
Jiang Cheng can't help but smile fondly because, does this little lan really think he won't realize he's doing all this to gain his trust so he can woo Jin Ling? At least this lan eats meat and isn't afraid to stand up to him.
Actually, Lan Jingyi traveled to lotus pier to ask Sandu directly if Jin Ling had a boyfriend, but he saw Jiang Cheng swimming with his disciples, then he noticed the flowers, the fish looked very appetizing,,, when he realized it, almost a month had passed in Yunmeng Jiang and he was helping the sect leader jiang's spiders sharpen their daggers.
Lan Qiren grabbed Lan Jingyi by the neck like a puppy while apologizing to Jiang Cheng (it is not known if he finally got permission from Jiang Cheng, but curiously in Lan Jingyi's sack there are five portions of lotus soup).
Jiang Cheng in Lotus pier being chased by his four "grandchildren" like puppies because Jin Ling didn't inherit (thank all the gods) his grandfather's adultery, but he did inherit the effectiveness of jin sperm.
I like to think that Jiang Cheng has a sixth sense that tells him when someone is pregnant. The next time he sees Lan Jingyi and Jin Ling, he stares intently at Lan Jingyi and gently takes a strand of his hair.
Jiang Cheng: Again? Seriously? A-Ling, are you a dog in heat or what?
Jin Ling: JIUJIU???
Lan Jingyi: ...PFFTâ.
Two years later, Jiang Cheng will be seen with a small babygirl in his arms, talking to Lan Jingyi and four children behind him like puppies, but this time with their wooden swords.
(Jin Ling is being punished in Lanling Jin with dozens of meetings).