âYou can never really be sure whatâs in these things,â Carles Silva said, taking a small nibble of the Boston Bibb lettuce that hung limply from the corner of his double cheeseburger.Â
 âItâs not even a matter of trusting the owner, because so often they donât know either. I mean, they get the forms in the mail, these management jerk-offs and three-ring binder franchise clowns, and itâs at that moment they realize they know shit-all about what goes on in their own kitchens. At the molecular level at least. I asked a guy once, what was in his hamburger â it tasted like shit â and he just looked at me and said beef.â Carles laughed at his own joke. âFive to one this place has radium poisoning. Iâm thinking the buns. They absorb that nonsense like a sponge.âÂ
The cheeseburger shielding his face was square like how they used to be made, its sourdough bun taping to a spiral peak that swarmed with poppy seeds like a whipped ant hill.
âBut there are things in these foods that are undetectable by anyone, really. I mean youâd be amazed. L&L used to have a swarm of trained specialists theyâd send out for inspection audits, guys with their tongues trained at Ăcole Certeau or the M.E.C. by these limp French assholes, and I mean our guys would swagger in with maybe a magnifying glass and a slide-rule between them and let their suits do half the talking just to milk the free meals. And we compare these career guysâ resultsâârecognized, certified experts though they wereââwith the printout from a five-year-old spectrometer set that you could get at a yard sale â â Carles paused to take another small bite of his burger and, still chewing, reached to something at his feet. âI mean youâd be amazed.â
Martin Pengrass sat across from Carles in the turquoise booth behind the jukebox and watched the latterâs head dip under the tabletopâs horizon line. Martin was drinking a vanilla milkshake with a raw egg blended in for texture. Carles fumbled around for a while down there, constricted by the stay-pressâd slacks which bulged around the slow expansion of his thighs, like hocks of ham. Martin felt underdressed and looked down at the arms of his nylon windbreaker pretzel-tied into a cape atop his hawaiian shirt. The one-piece plastic seats reminded him of popsicles, for some reason, as they dipped toward the wall in a way that left his feet dangling a few inches off the checkered floor. Carles was still bent-double, fighting for air. He smelled oil â 4-hydroxy-3-nonenoic acid. Crispy fries â 6-Acetyl-2,3,4,5-tetrahydropyridine. The walls around them were covered in reproduction black and white photos, and a blown-up glossy Rita Hayworth pouted next to a hissing ventilation duct. A lean metal coat rack stood next to each stall. Martin played with his left foot, slipping the threadbare talon of sock in and out of a scuffed loafer, on and off and again, before Carles returned to eye level, kidney-bean red but laughing it off, as he placed a small suitcase onto the table. It was 11:53 am, and theyâd just beaten the lunch rush at Winkyâs Weiner House.
Martin had woken up two hours ago with cigarette flu and his favourite good pants were too scuffed to to leave the house. He was supposed to meet Carlos at Winkyâs, his phoneâs blinking icon said, and bring some baking soda if he had any. He did, and he ran down into his basement lab to grab some while slipping his windbreaker over his shoulders. Martin walked to the bus stop outside his apartment and took the 12:10 over. There had been a man yelling at the bus driver about which of two coins is really a quarter.
After curiously poking at a few stray drops of orange grease on the tabletop, Carles spun a combination into the suitcaseâs tumblers and opened it to reveal its innards: the dull surface of a dial-riddled tan instrument whose faint hum could be felt in the rippling condensation of Martinâs glass. âJust got this puppy last week â a modified Agilent 5975 Series MSD Dentector. Cutest lilâ Mass Spec on the market, but the precisionâs unmatched. Just got it for surviving ten years with Ellen!â He wolf-whistled like a cartoon character âItâs what you get, staying faithfulâ. His smile was genuinely smug, like the sibling with the biggest Christmas gift.Â
 Carles worked as a nutrient auditor for Lundgren & Lundgren, where he tested food products as a very indiscreet kind of âsecret shopperâ â itâs hard to be truly secret with a portable lab taking up half your booth. Hole-in-the-wall burger joints like Winkyâs were his specialty, and heâd carved out his name in the profession after finding elevated Einsteinium levels tainting the entire McDonaldâs supply chain two years ago â the real start of his career, he joked. He wore a tiny gothic-script L&L on the lapel of his blue blazer. Lundgren and Lundgren falls off the tongue like a flat of bricks, Carles would say, and so he had taken to referring to his employer as âEllenâ,as in just a minute, Ellenâs calling or Ellenâs an angry bitch this week so I wonât be able to make it to dinner, a habit which confused casual acquaintances.Â
âWeâd been running on Soft Laser Desorbtion for the last five years. Accurate ionization, donât get me wrong, but youâd have to sit in a dump like thisââ Carles gestured broadly, nearly smacking a seamy-faced waitress, ââfor hours while the results were spat out on punch cards that you couldnât even read until youâd gotten back to the lab.â Martin took a sip of his milkshake and snorted inwardly. He patiently waited for days for his results to be analyzed, always working with outdated data. He didnât own a suit.
Martin and Carles knew one another from Amherst College, where they had roomed together as sophomores in the Charles Drew Black Cultural House. Theirs was the only double left with a washing machine. And the price was okay. Martin spent most of his college career playing checkers at the library café, while Carles was treasurer for Psi Upsilon. They both studied chemistry, but Martin had favoured phytoanalysis of scents. Perfumes were his passion, the brownian tendrils of coffee smell or menstruation tickling his nose hairs used to give him a sense of workmanlike satisfaction, but this passion had been dulled on the grinding block of a poor job market. He worked in the cluttered basement lab of his house for a neglected Johnson & Johnson subsidiary, helming a shampoo project that was set to be shelved in the next quarter.
Martin handed Carles the box of Arm and Hammer, its corners dinted from the time it spent in his coat pocket. Carles pushed aside his blazerâs lapel and produced a glass scoopula. He carefully transferred three tiny bumps of the white powder into the Specâs vaporizing chamber, and with a lambskin handkerchief proceeded to coat it. Martin watched with disdain. The open section of the spectrometer reminded him of a thimble, or a flour-sieve maybe.
Once this was done, Carles lowered his gold-rim glasses onto the bridge of his nose, and after giving a few preliminary pokes with the blunt end of a scalpel, cut the burger cleanly in half, and placed its bleeding cross-section face down on the porous metal surface of the chamber, closing the tiny porthole door behind it.Â
âSo â you have a woman in your life Martin? Know anyone special?â
Martin stared at the half moon of burger remaining on Carlesâ plate. The ketchup, mustard, and barbecue sauce mingled together like an oil spill. He wondered if any isotopes would be found, if there was any radon in the back of this dying diner. He thought of Marlene â married now, to the guy who fixed Martinâs pipes and overcharged him. Freda â heâd found her in the dump eating cardboard after their second date, and she was at Saint Vicâs now, playing checkers all day, reliving a safer and more sterile version of Martinâs college prime. Tammy â maybe she still worked here. This was only the second time heâd been to Winkyâs. The first was for a date with Tammy. She got 75% percent off. 100% off if she made the meal herself. Martin walked off during the second course, feeling sorry for himself, and synthesized some eugenol vapour to cheer himself up. It reminded him of his childhood cottage.
âNothing special, no. still waiting.â Martin picked his finger nail skin as he heard himself laugh dismissively. âHow about you? That fancy briefcase must cause quite a stir at the clubs.â Martin held only the dimmest notion of what transpired at clubs.
Carles looked down as he turned a large dial and examined the open suitcaseâs LED screen as he took a bite of the remaining test-subject. He sighed, and a speck of ground beef anchored itself to his lower lip. âTell you the truth, Iâm married to Ellen these days. Working too much, and the nature of the profession has done its damage. At least Epifano got the upscale beat, and heâs lost 20 pounds eating nothing but single-leaf salads and Oysters Rockefeller. But tell you the truth, itâs bleak, man. I still imagine sometimes, I sometimes still wish Stella and I hadnât called it quits.â The machine beeped several times and emitted a loud whistle as its hum changed frequencies. Martin caught a glimpse of an embossed crest on the ugly tan suitcaseâs lid. Carles payed it no attention.
âIâll be in the mall sometimes, or just walking around on the job, and I get hint of the smell. And it drives me up the wall. Thereâs a certain way their hair smells when you know that they take care of themselves. It used to be all over my bed, in the shower, on each and every chair in my house, everything that just smells like fries and overcooked beef now. Shampoos with the stupid floral smells â it never just smells like fruit though, more like heat. It makes a bubble around their heads, a kind of halo that smells like burnt toast with nutmeg.
âBefore she left, I noticed my wifeâs hair never smelled like that anymore. She had started using this goat stuff without any chemicals, and she told me about it, about the switch, and I really think itâs the overpriced boutique stuff that did it.â Carles toyed with a company ring. âI want her to scald her hair again and flatten it in the press, to smell primping in the morning and roll over in bed so I can just get a good whiff of it.â Carlos sniffed. Despite his girth, he looked small in his suit, somehow farther away.
Martinâs attentions shifted, and his mouth sprang to action. âThatâs nerolidol and myrceneâ. Carlosâ brow furrowed. âNerolidol. Itâs a sesquiterpene found in aromatic oils. Tea-tree, mostly. The shampoo industry latched onto it as soon as modern wand-style hair-straighteners were first catching on. It reacts with heat to make the hair-straightener smell, the toast one. I ran some tests on it a few years ago. And the cinnamon, thatâs myrcene. Itâs an olofinic tyrpene dimer of isoprene. Smells kinda like cinnamon or nutmeg, vaguely sweet when it gets hot. Very proximity-sensitive.â
The corners of Carlesâ mouth drooped and he pushed his glasses up until they were flush with his eyelids. His mouth was smeared with a nondescript sauce.Â
âSorry.â Martin couldnât help smiling a little. âI can make you some. Some of that smell, I mean. An oil vaporizer or even a heated pot placed near a drafty window or a fan, and your whole house would smell like it again, it wouldââ.Â
âMy whole house smells like fucking burgers.â Carles squeezed the bridge of his nose as he waved over a waitress with her back to the booth. Martin recognized Tammy as she turned, in her Winkyâs apron with the smiling moustached hot-dog, and tried to turn away, but their eyes met, and Tammy scribbled something on Martinâs bill before brusquely sliding it to him across the tabletop, where it sopped up some condensation on the milkshake glass. She paused and turned around, squinting at the spectrometer. âWhat in the hell is that, and who told you you could bring it in here?â The two sad, rumpled men looked up and Tammy turned on her heel. âSmell that?â Carles mouthed.
âMyrcene.â Martin whispered reverently.
âGet out, fucking creeps,â Tammy scoffed, as the sprinkling of other customers turned around and gave them the look as the spectrometer ceased its cheerful whistling and spat out a short length of ticker tape.
As she walked away, Tammyâs cowboy boots clip-clopped into the kitchen as she forced a derisive sound between her lips, at once feminine and whale-like.
Martin turned over the bill as Carles watched. YOU STINK! it read, in hasty block capitals, the second word triple-underlined.
The two sat and stared at one another for a minute or two as the ticker-tape danced out of the suitcaseâs side slot. It issued a final beep before its red light faded to burgundy. Carles wiped his face on the printout sheet and tossed it under the table with some derision. âNext stop, south-side Winkies.â He got up to put on his coat. Martin looked at the squashed sliver of hamburger that remained on their table.
âYou going to eat that?â
©Ian MalcolmÂ