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Dress
c. 1895
âThis dress made of taffeta features a net overlay designed with metal sequins and beadwork. The standing collar is made of lace as is the yoke. This dress also has lace undersleeves. There are elaborate designs on the center front of the boned bodice and also on the skirt hem. This dress is gathered at the back and has a train. Features that indicate this is an 1890s dress are the monobosom and the standing collar.
This dress was created by Julius Barnes & Co. and was part of the Miss May Godfrey Collection.â
Grand Rapids Public Museum
Local history museums are both extremely valuable and extremely underfunded and understaffed and doing the best they can! And with that in mind... I am almost absolutely sure that this beautiful dress was misdated. The "monobosom and standing collar" referenced were hallmarks of women's fashion for a span of more than 20 years, and absolutely everything else about this gown looks absolutely nothing like the 1890s. For my own part, according to my research, I would say there is almost no chance that this dress dates any earlier than 1909. Between the slim sleeves (the exact OPPOSITE of the 1890s!), the Empire waistline, the use of heavily-beaded net and the style of lace being used, I would pretty confidently date this closer to c. 1911, give or take a few years in either direction! In addition to the above, the lines of the gown look like it was designed to be worn over an Edwardian style corset (it emphasizes that "sailing forward into the wind" posture), which wasn't invented until 1901. Gowns made before 1900 have a distinctly more "straight up and down" line to them.
See, this is why I love the ability to go through reblogs! Because I was really sceptical of this date, but on the other hand, I just look at dresses from that era for novel inspiration. Still good to see that someone more knowledgeable than me agrees that this is misdated.
This is Dr. Sarah Stein Lubrano, and though I couldn't find the video that makes up this post, you can read/hear more from her here at her website:
on everything from emotional intelligence to instructional design, from autonomy at work to polyamory, cognitive dissonance to the role of f
has anyone guessed where you're from based on your accent?
Has anyone guessed where you're from based on your accent?
Yes
No
Have they guessed, yes.
Have they guessed correctly, no.
The heavily worn tunic of the Bernuthsfeld Man, patched out of 45 single pieces of cloth, 20 different fabrics in 9 different weaving patterns. 680â775 CE, Lower Saxony, Germany.

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Just a note for the local crowd
Every now and then a difficult period like this comes along: so it's time to request some assistance.
I've kind of been neglecting my vision for the past year or so, aware that I needed new glasses (and to go have a consult for possible eye-related surgery), but putting it off... and now the situation has, as it were, come home to roost.
The other day, when I was typing something and then (to check it before posting) had to pick up the Mac and hold it up to my nose to see what I'd typed... I realized that if this went on much longer, even with dictation (because after you dictate, you still have to edit...), I wouldn't be able to write.
That would be bad.
I need to go see my Eye Lady, get examined, and get both sets of glasses re-fitted with new prescriptions. Thisâas usual, each time it needs to be done every year and a half or two years, due to Weird Eyesâis going to run into a low-four-figure-ish kind of money. And due to other recent unexpected medical expenses, right now there's not enough dosh around (or spondoolicks or whatever term you prefer...) to get things sorted.
Therefore: can I get people interested in keeping a writer, you know, writing (as I've got three novels working at once at the moment...), to consider doing one of these things?
(a) Go over to Ebooks Direct and buy a book. (Or a bundle. Or a gift card for somebody else who might like my work.) And if you do: thanks so much!
(b) Stop by my Ko-Fi and drop a little something in the pot. It'll be most appreciated.
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And if you can't do either of the above:
(c) Reblog this and let other people see it?
Whatever you do: thanks very much!
When you start stacking up the various âšcrimesâšof the line of Tantalos, it looks quite ridiculous in the aggregate:
Tantalos Familial blood crime and god crime (against all the gods present at his feast). (Murdering his own son and attempting to feed human flesh to the gods. Also, sometimes, having stolen nectar and ambrosia and distributed it among his friends, or having asked Zeus directly for a life "like that of the gods". Either the thief of the golden dog that guarded Zeus' shrine in Crete, or an accessory to the theft.)
Broteas, son of Tantalos Hubris (against Artemis). (The Bibliotheke's Epitome (section 2.2) is too brief, so we don't know what "didn't honour Artemis" means in detail, or why he wasn't doing so.)
Niobe, daughter of Tantalos Hubris (against Leto).
Pelops, son of Tantalos Non-expiated murder?, breaking xenia. (Whether we're to count the murder of Myrtilos (it is one of the sources for the curse(s) on the family line) or not I don't know; he's not always the one who's promised something in return for Myrtilos' aid, but he's certainly always the one who murders him, whether justified or not). And, according to Bibliotheke 3.12.6, Pelops (much later in life), while in a war against Stymphalos of Arcadia and being unable to defeat him, invites him on the pretence of friendship and murders him, chopping his body into pieces and scattering them. Greece suffers infertility as a result (resolved by Aiakos).
Atreus, son of Pelops Familial blood crime, hubris (against Artemis) (The Bibliotheke (via Tzetzes) tells us the golden lamb was born after Atreus promised to sacrifice the finest of his flocks to Artemis; he fails to do so. He then murders his nephews and serves them to his brother as part of vengeance for his brother's adultery.)
Thyestes, son of Pelops Adultery, incest. (Sleeping with Aerope for the first and then sexually assaulting his own daughter when he's told a son born of their union will help avenge him on his brother. (Mortal father-daughter incest wasn't one of the acceptable forms like that of uncle-niece.)
Aigisthos, son of Thyestes Familial blood crime. (Murders his uncle.)
Agamemnon, son of Atreus Hubris (against Artemis), familial blood crime. (Either promises "the finest of his that is born that year" to Artemis (which happens to be Iphigenia) or, while at the second muster of Aulis, kills a deer in Artemis' sacred precinct and claims the goddess herself couldn't have done better. Kills/has to kill his daughter as part of punishment to make up for the hubris.)
Orestes, son of Agamemnon Familial blood crime. (Murders his mother.)
burst out in unexpected laughter at this footnote from bostock's natural history translation. pliny the elder voice i forgor
A giant lava bubble, over a hundred feet across, explodes violently, extruding ribbons of volcanic glass in the air at the ocean entry in Kalapana, USA
Incantation Bowls from Mesopotamia, c.300-700 CE: these bowls are lined with Aramaic incantations and drawings that show demons being shackled and subdued; they were often buried beneath houses and cemeteries in an effort to capture malevolent spirits
Bowls like this were once produced as magical amulets in parts of Mesopotamia (in what is now Iraq and Iran). As this article explains:
Thousands of similar incantation bowls, also known as magic bowls, were produced in the area of todayâs Iraq between the fifth and eighth centuries. Clients used incantation bowls to protect and heal, to frighten off demons and evil spirits, and, in a few cases, to enlist demons to help secure love or money, or to harm adversaries. In addition to the magical texts, scribes sketched drawings of bound and chained demons â pictorial representations of the spellsâ desired effect â on the bottom of about a quarter of the bowls.
Above: this incantation bowl was commissioned by someone named Gia Bar Imma nearly 1,700 years ago, and it features a Jewish Babylonian Aramaic inscription along with a drawing of two demons wrapped in chains
These bowls were created and used by people of many different faiths. They were typically inscribed with Aramaic text, which appeared in one of three different dialects: Jewish Babylonian Aramaic, Mandaic, or Syriac. Incantations that were written in Jewish Babylonian Aramaic are, of course, attributed to Jewish communities, but the ones in Mandaic are associated with Gnostic Mandaeans, and the ones in Syriac are typically associated with Christians, Manichaeans, or followers of the ancient Babylonian religion.
Above: this bowl is lined with an Aramaic inscription that invokes "the powers of Enoch, the seven planets, and the twelve signs of the zodiac" to protect the home of a man named Pabak bar Kufithai
There are a few incantation bowls that feature Arabic or Persian inscriptions instead, and those examples tend to have Islamic or Zoroastrian motifs. Some bowls are simply inscribed with gibberish:
The largest number of known incantation bowls are written not in Syriac, but in Jewish Aramaic by Jewish scribes (though not necessarily for Jewish clients). Mandaean bowls are the second most numerous, only then followed by bowls in Syriac. A handful of bowls in Arabic and Persian are also known, in addition to bowls â perhaps 10 per cent â that can only be called ancient forgeries. These latter are filled with scribbles that mimic cursive writing but are not, in fact, in any language at all; perhaps they were made by illiterate scribes preying on equally illiterate clients.
Above: this bowl features a Mandaic inscription
Incantation bowls provide valuable information about Jewish history, in particular:
The prevalence of Jewish Aramaic bowls are what makes these artefacts so important for Jewish history. They provide the sole piece of epigraphic evidence documenting Jewish language and religion at one of the most important times in Jewish history: the period of the composition of the Babylonian Talmud.
Above: researchers believe that the figure in the center of this bowl is a representation of the demon Lilith, whose likeness and/or name appears on many other incantation bowls
This article also notes:
Generally speaking, the incantations could do a number of things: healing fevers and diseases; guarding from sudden death, injustice, and treachery; and exorcising evil spirits. Similar metal talismans were made around the same time and filled largely the same role. Where they differ is that in many instances the bowls called upon deities or angels to ensnare demons. It is believed from drawings on incantation bowls depicting ensnared creatures that the reason that so many have been found upside-down is that they were intended to be traps for careless or curious demons.
Above: this bowl has a Jewish Babylonian Aramaic inscription that includes the phrase "this cat is bound," and it features a drawing of a demonic cat being restrained
More than 2,000 of these bowls are known to exist, but only a fraction of them have been thoroughly studied.
Above: an illustration from another bowl
Above: two incantation bowls with Jewish Babylonian Aramaic text and drawings that show demons being restrained
Sources & More Info:
Aeon: Magic Bowls of Antiquity
Penn Today: The Stories the Bowls Tell
Bowers Museum: To Catch a Demon: Mesopotamian Incantation Bowls
Jewish Quarterly Review: Magic Formulae and Women's History: Authorship, Agency, and Gender in the Aramaic Incantation Bowls
My Jewish Learning: Magic Bowls
The Librarians: Who Wrote these Ancient Jewish Incantation Bowls?
Penn Museum: Hebrew Bowl
Journal of Late Antiquity: Enslaved People and the Demonic in the Sasanian Empire

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BREAKING NEWS: screenshots from your phone not an appropriate format for submitting work in college classes.
my partner was a TA for an intro-to-subject course in grad school. finals week rolls around and the students are required to submit this big module assignment they've had like a month to do for a decent chunk of their grade. if you've submitted everything, you'll see a summary screen with a star beside each module name showing it's been completed.
an hour before the assignment deadline, he receives an email from a student claiming they completed the assignment, but the system is not allowing them to submit. there's an image attached to the email. partner goes to open what he assumes is a screenshot of that summary page.
instead, he sees that the student has taken a photo of their laptop from about 2 feet away, with that page open. strange, but it wouldn't be the first time a college freshman has lacked the tech literacy to take a screenshot. he almost doesn't look twice at it, but he realizes something about it just feels a little bit...off. so he zooms in.
the student had CUT STARS OUT OF CONSTRUCTION PAPER and TAPED THEM TO THEIR LAPTOP SCREEN BESIDE EACH MODULE NAME. you could see where they actually had completed the first couple of modules, but the stars for all the subsequent ones were like, double the size of the first two and exactly as uneven/irregular as you'd expect if you were freehanding them with scissors.
probably would've been quicker and easier to just photoshop them in but no, this student took a refreshingly creative, arts-and-crafts approach to getting an academic misconduct case
The only time a student sent me a photo of their laptop screen was ALSO for purposes of academic dishonesty.
About a year ago, teaching an online World Lit course in summer session. First writing assignment is a short paper requiring one (1) outside source; half the class turns in papers with âAI-hallucinatedâ quotations & citations because theyâre just savvy enough to fiddle with the text and get past Canvasâs built-in & very-unreliable âAI detectorâ but not savvy enough to actually double-check what the computer is telling them. I send out emails to the tune of âif you want credit on the assignment you have to prove this source you quoted actually exists.â
One student apparently clicks the link in their bibliography for the first time, and is presumably surprised to find the same thing I found: working URL, but the page it goes to is not the article they cited (which 100% does not exist; I checked). Student goes into Inspect Page Source, changes the title of the page to display as the title of the hallucinated article, then sends me an email saying they canât give me a URL because something something VPN but hereâs a photo of their laptop displaying the article in question with the URL bar conveniently cropped out of frame.
They didnât change the body text of the website, so it was pretty clear what theyâd done. And what Iâd actually asked them to send me was a PDF, since they were claiming this was an article from an academic journal, and it was a real journal we had institutional access to, so the involvement of a regular website at all was actually a screw-up on the âAIââs part anyway. I eventually went back at the end of the course & gave them partial credit on that assignment (just enough to bump their final grade from a C to a B-minus) for being the only student all summer to put actual mental effort into lying to me â everyone else just took the ânuh-uhâ approach.
So, @werewolf-transgenderism, was your laptop-photo student flummoxed by tech or trying to pull a fast one?
they were doing an assignment (incorrectly) and instead of close reading the dialogue from a film (what they were supposed to do), they decided to just do plot summary of the film and vaguely reference visual elements with no citations or images included in the text. I required them to revise and resubmit with close readings of textual evidence to get credit, and instead of doing literally anything with the written part of the essay, they just took a bunch of photos of the movie playing on their laptop and stuck them in several additional pages at the end of the essay (still no in-text reference to them or any close reading. so it did not do well)
I have students use an editable group tool to submit short writing group writing assignments. Before I have them submit their project to the tool, they have to send me a copy to look over. When they're done, they're supposed to submit the finished thing to the tool (which require them to copy and paste the text and at the most do a bit of reformatting).
This time around a group just posted a screenshot into the editor and saved it. Like. It's technically readable I guess and I never said they could not do that so I left it. But one more thing to tell them they can't do next semester...
Every year my assignment instructions get more and more specific as I have to rule out different crazy interpretations people have come up with.
Distinct con of being active in an environment with a lot of elderly people, aka church (choir): we have been nonstop singing on funerals for a while now and the next one is incoming.
Squeezing oc like a stress ball. Throwing oc at the wall like a tennis ball. Dribbling oc on the ground like a basket ball. Whacking oc with a club like golf ball. AND OTHER SUCH ACTIVIES THAT YOU CAN IMAGINE.
Spinning Plant and Animal Fibers
By Brooklyn Museum - Spindle without Whorl, whole or Spindle with Cotton Yarn, Fragment. Brooklyn Museum. Retrieved on 2019-11-04.Attribution 3.0 Unported (CC BY 3.0) license, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=83653957
The beginning of twisting fibers from plants or animal coats is difficult to date because they don't fossilize, so we have to rely on trace evidence, such as imprints in mud that did fossilize. We have these of string-like skirts from the Upper Paleolithic that date to about 20,000 years ago. Recent discoveries, though, show that Neanderthals spun cording as well.
Photo of Neanderthal cord from Abri du Maras. M-H. Moncel
The evidence from the Neanderthals was actual fibers that were preserved in a cave in southern France. The fragment was 6mm long and was three bundles of twisted tree fibers twisted together. The most likely usage of the fiber was to be wrapped around a handle of some type or as part of a net bag. This implies many areas of knowledge held by Neanderthals to make the cording including the growth patterns of the trees the fibers came from, spinning, and spinning the resultant thread into a stronger yarn. 'In order to get this fiber, you have to strop the outer bark off a tree to scrape off the innter bark. This is best done in the spring or early summer,' according to Bruce Hardy, co-author of the study of these fibers and professor of anthropology at Kenyon College in Gambler, Ohio.
This spinning was most likely done against the thigh, twisting the fibers as the hand rolls it down the thigh, pinching them, and then bringing them back to the top of the thigh to be twisted more. The product was likely wound around a stick or stone.
By Rama - Own work, CC BY-SA 2.0 fr, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=49227927
The next step was to spin onto the stick, or spindle, directly, then to create a split or hook in the top of the stick to hold the twisted part on the stick. Exactly when this happened, we don't know, as there are, as yet, no direct remains of this process. What we do have evidence of improved technology is small bone and later metal hooks that replaced the slit or hook cut into wood as well as weights made of stone, wood, metal, clay, or later metal that went on the end of the sticks to keep them spinning longer called spinning whorl. These have been found as early as the Neolithic. The combination of these technological improvements is called the drop spindle and we have artwork depicting spinning from many cultures.
By © Marie-Lan Nguyen / Wikimedia Commons, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2596494
The other item needed to make spinning easier is an item called a distaff, which would hold a prepared bundle of fibers is loosely wrapped onto, which freed the hand that would have previously held the fiber and allowed a larger quantity of fiber to be held at one time. The distaff could be tucked under the arm or into a loop or holder in a belt. Again, since this didn't fossilize, we don't know when it was developed, though it does appear in Bronze Age artwork.
If you're interested in learning to spin, local independent yarn stores are a good place to start. Other places to look are reenactment guilds, fiber craft guilds, or online for spinning classes. The benefit of guilds is in-person help learning and the benefit of companionship and experience.
no matter how bad I feel, I'm comforted by the thought that it could always be worse. for example Henry VIII could be in love with me

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dissertation graded, who wants to hear my blisteringly hot takes on the chronology & development of attic geometric pottery
SAY NO MORE. everyone sit down, grab a drink, and listen to what i like to refer to as "hey what the fuck are we even doing." i will preface this with 4 statements:
I am a terminal hater. I view every claim made in an academic publication with a suspicious squint, which probably influenced my dissertation significantly and definitely influenced my outlook on Attic Late Geometric (henceforth called LG) pottery.
I am specifically a terminal hater of periodization. I love continuity. I love observing the integration of old and new as things gradually change over time. I do not like cutting time up into âneat little boxesâ which end up simplifying gradual processes into sharp breaks. I am also already a bit of a hater of Early Iron Age Greek chronology. I would kill Submycenaean in a heartbeat, I think itâs stupid as hell (shoutout Papadopoulos et al 2013 btw). So I am even more predisposed to be skeptical here.
I especially hate the idea of definitive statements being applied to a protohistoric period & region like, say, Early Iron Age Attica. like man i think it depends
Either everyone else has been using a totally separate mindset here which I am incapable of having towards pottery analysis or perhaps they've been smoking crack in a corner for almost a hundred years, its really uncertain. Either way this is literally just me. I have tried to find someone else with this specific critique. Nope. Its Just Me. so take that for what you will.
Anyways, here is my beef with the Standard Approach To Late Geometric Attic Pottery Chronology & Development (Abridged) (This was an 8000 word undergraduate dissertation):
#look I don't know shit about anything so I might be so very wrong but everything op says about how the field dates Greek vases sounds insane#especially since you can. apparently. figure out where the clay came from????? why aren't you DOING that
(with apologies to @doloneia for chiming in here)
See, the problem with that approach is that knowing where the clay comes from doesnÂŽt give you a date of when the vase was made - at best it would give you a date of the formation of the claybed (hope thatÂŽs the right word in English). We can approximately tell when a vase was fired via a method called Thermoluminescence dating, but that is VERY approxomate and as far as I know mostly done to fnd modern fakes.
Normally - or at least unless you are a classical archaeologist with a certain training, grumble, grumble - weÂŽd prefer to date by stratigraphy and correlations with historic cultures with calendar systems we can translate into ours. Radiocarbon, if need be, but that is also somewhat imprecise and canÂŽt be done on clay directly (on accont of not being an organic material). Dendrodating - dating by yearrings in trees in wood closely associated with the pottery in question - would be really nice, too.
And for various reasons, almost none of that is an option. Like, we can manage stratigraphic sequences at least for some sites and regions, but thanks to the prolonged fallout from the Bronze Age collapse, we lack secure associations with historic cultures, and wood does really, really not survive well in the Greek climate. On top of that, chronology in the rest of the Eastern Mediterranean and Egypt is also somewhat shaky during that time.
So we are in a situation, where we can fairly reliably date the last pottery from before the BA collapse (aka the Late Helladic B/C transition) and then nothing, really, until the Middle Geometric period at the earliest. Mostly, if I recall correctly, trading relationships with the Near East start up again at the end of this period around 750 BC and apply therefore mostly to (Attic) Late Geometric. The lengths of style phases before that are estimations.
All of that is before we go into the obsession of dating things down to a decade or two via style, an approach one of my professors called "an exercise in vanity" at one point. The problems with that op has thoroughly pointed out, but there are legitimate obstacles to doing it differently.