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We spent a day at a lesser known yet gorgeous deserts around Isfahan. Close to Varzaneh Desert, lies Khara, a beauty created by hundreds of sand dunes. This giant, masterpiece of a monster is located 120 km South-East of Isfahan.
For many years, one thing that has always kept many travelers from coming to Iran has been safety concerns. Many people â mostly Westerners â have always thought of Iran as one of the most dangerous places on earth. But why everyone seems to be worried about traveling to Iran? Is the situation in the country really that bad? In this article, I will try to explain what Iran really looks like and why the media has been trying to fool everyone for many years.
The Islamic revolution of 1979 marked a major shift in Iranâs tourism industry. For many years, Iran was considered (and advertised) as an unwelcoming destination for travelers. As a program to attract more tourists to the country, citizens of more than 70 countries can now get a Visa on Arrival (VOA) in a number of ports of entry. The word is spreading every day on the internet and social media and people are sharing their experiences in Iran, most of which are overwhelmingly positive.
Travel Risk Map 2019
According to the 2019 Travel Risk Map, launched by global risk experts International SOS in collaboration with Control Risks, Iran is listed in the âLow Riskâ category. The majority of European countries are also falling in this category. According to their website, this report uses a number of factors like political violence (including terrorism, insurgency, politically motivated unrest and war), social unrest (including sectarian, communal and ethnic violence) as well as violent and petty crime to determine the risk of traveling to every country in the world. Other factors, such as the robustness of the transport infrastructure, the state of industrial relations, the effectiveness of the security and emergency services and the countryâs susceptibility to natural disasters are also considered. You can check their website for more details on what every risk category is defined.
People, People, People
Iran is definitely one of the most misunderstood countries in the world. For the same reason, many travelers are surprised to see how the country and its people are completely different from their expectations. Many frequent travelers find Iran safer than most other destinations. Almost every solo female traveler I have talked to has confirmed that they feel more comfortable walking alone at night in the cities of Iran compared to some European countries.
When you first visit Iran, one of the first things you might notice is the amount of attention locals give to you as a tourist. Most Iranians tend to show a lot of respect towards foreigners. It is very common to be invited for a cup of tea or even for a dinner at their home. In fact, making friends in Iran is definitely what will make your experience unique.
The Money Problem
International credit and debit cards do not work in Iran, which means you need to have cash with you at all times. Needless to say, this might create some inconvenience knowing you have to carry all your money with you in cash. Therefore, Iran Tourist Card is a convenient solution for your financial needs in Iran.
Female Travelers
The Middle East is known for being a man-dominated region. In Iran, however, things are a bit different. Womenâs presence in the society, especially in bigger cities, is much more noticeable compared to the other middle eastern countries. We have a comprehensive article regarding the safety of Iran for solo female travelers. In general, Iran is considered a safe destination for female travelers. Iranian police are very strict about any sort of misbehavior.
The Scariest Thing About Iran
youâve heard about it before: we Iranians are not good drivers (and we donât seem to be sorry about it!). A simple rule to keep in mind is that cars are the rulers of the roads. Do not expect drivers to stop the car or slow down for you to cross the street, even on a crosswalk. If it seems to be a challenge for you to cross the streets, always wait for another pedestrian to cross and follow them. Also, if you do decide to cross the street by yourself, make sure that the driver has acknowledged your presence.
If we take another look at the Travel Risk Map for road safety, we can see that Iran is unfortunately displayed as a âVery High Riskâ destination when it comes to road safety. The major roads can be generally categorized as safe and well-maintained, but it is usually the careless drivers and the quality of most cars which make the roads unsafe. The good news is that bus drivers face a lot more strict rules and are usually more careful with their driving.
If a taxi driver is going too fast, try to ask them to slow down, this will hopefully work in most cases. To ask them, you can politely say: âYavÄshtar, lotfan!â which means âSlow down, please!â.
Traveling to âProhibitedâ Regions
safety of traveling to the Western regions like Kurdistan or Sistan va Baluchistan region in the East has been always questioned by travelers wanting to visit more non-touristy areas of the country. While some countries ask their passport holders not to travel to parts of these regions, there are still adventurers who choose to explore their beauty. Visiting these areas is an extraordinary experience.
In Western regions, you meet Kurds and Lurs who are famous for their hospitality and fascinating culture which for a good reason, theyâre all proud of it. As a matter of fact, many tourists choose to travel to the Western regions like Kurdistan, though it is advised by some sources not to travel within the 50 kilometers range of the Iran-Iraq border.
For a long time, Sistan va Baluchistan region has not been a popular destination among Iranians and foreigners. Although, this is changing quickly as some cities like Chabahar have attracted many Iranian tourists in recent years. Speaking of Chabahar, this part of the region is generally considered as safe as other parts of the country as the government has been investing in creating a tax-free trade zone. However, if youâre planning to travel to the little-known parts of the region, I recommend traveling with a local guide. Being close to Pakistan and Afghanistan borders and the police struggle with smugglers has kept many travelers from visiting the region. As a result, many stunning parts of the region are yet to be discovered.
Terrorist Threats in Iran
This might be obvious to anyone who has a little understanding of Iran, but for those who donât: any concern regarding being targeted in a terrorist attack in Iran is complete nonsense. I have seen some resources listing Iran as a high-risk country in terms of terrorist attacks, and this is a big lie.
Conclusion
Generally speaking, violent crimes against tourists are almost unheard of in Iran. But like any other destination, you should always keep an eye on your belongings, mostly in crowded places like bazaars or metro stations where pickpocketing can be a problem.
Iran Travel ExperienceBy Manon Tazelaar
In 2018, I started my solo backpacking trip back to the middle east, I had fallen in love with the region years before. However, I had never been to a very special and truly unique country of that region yet, Iran. I have met numerous people who had visited Iran and had completely fallen in love with the country. Statements such as, âIran is my absolute favourite country!â was something I literally kept hearing continuously. What was so special about this country that everyone kept pouring out all their love for it to me?
I have never been the one to base my decisions upon news headlines, but you canât deny the fact that Iran doesnât have that great of an image in the Western world, this creates a lot of confusion around the country. You will notice that misled perspective from the first moment you will tell the people around you about your upcoming travel plans. Common questions will definitely be, âBut is Iran safe?â, âIs Iran not in war now?â, âDo you have to wear a burka?â âAre you not scared that someone is going to kidnap you?â.
When it comes to making a decision regarding a new travel destination, my all-time number one rule is to never factor in anyoneâs opinion who has not been to the country themselves. With that said, the decision was super easy! The people who had not visited Iran said NO and the people who had been there said, HELL YES!
Travelling to Iran Solo?
Travelling solo has always been my favourite way of travelling, the flexibility and absolute freedom of just you and your backpack is something truly priceless. However, if solo travel is not your cup of tea, not to worry, Iran is home to many great tour guides and tour companies who would love to help you organize a stress-free trip to Iran.
The most common question I get is if Iran is safe for a solo female traveller. I can honestly say that from all my solo travels, Iran is a country in which I never had to worry for a second about a single thing: a place to sleep? Food? Any kind of other trouble? absolutely nothing. I never felt unsafe in any kind of way during any time of day in Iran.
I donât like to generalize but in this case, I will make an exception: Iranians are the absolute most hospitable, generous and friendliestpeople I have ever come across. As a matter of fact, whenever someone would figure out that I was travelling alone they always felt this great sense of responsibility for me and therefore, always tried everything in their power to make sure I was okay. Travelling here made me feel like a true princess and has shown a beautiful and hopeful side of humanity, where people are so genuinely kind and helpful towards each other.
Needless to say, as in every country you have to use your common sense and intuition when it comes to safety as a female travelling alone, the same thing goes for Iran.
How do I get an Iranian Tourist Visa?
There are different ways through which you can obtain your visa for Iran, either you apply for a Visa on Arrival (VOA) or you can do it beforehand at an Iranian embassy in any country.
I went for the Visa on Arrival which was quite easy to obtain if you omit the 4-hour waiting time at the immigration office. I have heard many people who had used the service of travel agencies who will do all the visa application hassle for you and therefore save you a lot of time, both before your trip and at the airport in Iran.
Prices for a tourist visa vary depending on the country of residence, my Visa on Arrival â being a Dutch citizen â cost me âŹ50,- in 2018.
Planning your Trip to Iran
When it comes to planning your trip to Iran, there are many ways to do so. Personally, I am a lover of unplanned travels and especially when it comes to Iran, it is almost a must! You should expect invitations on every street corner, everyone would love to invite you over for a tea, lunch or just a simple chat. Iranians are widely-known for their amazing hospitality. It is highly recommended to leave some room in your itinerary for these friendly invitations to happen.
Additionally, if you think the Iranian hospitality cannot take on any higher levels, then surely venture out to surrounding villages. The kindness of the people there is as if they are coming from another planet, it is something I have not experienced before.
Iran has a lot to offer, stretching from stunning divers landscapes, countless UNESCO World Heritage sites dating back to all different dynasties, culturally rich and home to the most amazing widely-known poets such as Rumi, Ferdowsi and Hafez. Mentioning all the above, a trip to this part of the world might need some researching and some slight planning if you donât want to miss some of the best parts of the country.
For history lovers Iran is a special treat, although the history of Ancient Persia and everything leading up to the shaping of todayâs Iran will need some proper comprehensive reading, it is still highly recommended to do so. With the 23 UNESCO World Heritage Sites which Iran has to offer, you donât want to miss out on the full context of this beautiful countryâs history.
Having that said, a traditional 2-week travel route is the following: Tehran â Kashan â Isfahan â Shiraz â Yazd. However, Iran is huge and has multiple diverse ethnic groups and cultures which will change with the kilometers passing, so definitely research and plan your trip according to your interests.
What to Wear in Iran
I loved spending some mornings sitting on a bench and looking at all the diversity on the street. The sights will vary from women wearing a black chador (a traditional Iranian conservative dress) and right next to them seeing young ladies pushing the limits with a headscarf covering just a tad bit of hair, dressed in colourful and rather tight clothes. It is an interesting contrast which can fill my day easily by just looking at daily life passing by in front of my eyes.
Regarding the dress code, it is important to bear in mind that Iran is an Islamic country with its rules and traditional values. Due to this, there is a specific dress code that everyone has to live up to when travelling to Iran. The dress code includes a headscarf and wearing rather loose clothing that covers the body. However, it is not as strict for tourist as you might think, loosely draping a scarf around your hair is what most of the girls around here do. You will notice quite soon how this stereotype of Iranian women is far from the truth. In fact, fashion, makeup, and overall outer appearance are actually very important among all Iranians.
Ultimately, every female traveller I encountered during my trip told me that they werenât bothered by the dress code at all. They actually quite liked to dress so differently than what they are used to, for some weeks.
Additionally, for men, it is quite easy as the only things you should not wear are shorts and tank tops, almost everything else is completely fine.
It is always best to have a quick look at what the locals are wearing and just mimic that. Whenever you are travelling somewhere new, you donât want to dress in a way that draws unnecessary attention to you.
Transportation in Iran
I have to admit, from all the countries I have visited, the long-distance buses in Iran are the absolute best! What can I possibly say? A separate chair, which you can turn into a bed (with more than enough space for you to not bother the person behind you), free lunchboxes, unlimited supply of free water bottles and all for an extremely low price.
With all pleasure, I have taken multiple bus rides in Iran with a duration from 19 hours up to even 25 hours and I loved every part of it. The comfort and the stunning changing scenery all whilst snacking on some Qottab (my favourite Iranian snack) has turned into a new hobby for me.
Additionally, the metros in Iran are great with its overall luxurious feel and most importantly, It is easy to navigate through due to all the metro stops being displayed in English. You can buy a cheap metro card and top it up in the station and off you go.
You can also go for buses in big cities, which are cheap and easy as well. Keep in mind that all public transportation is segregated in Iran. There is a section for women and a section for men, but this is very easy to figure out.
What about Hitchhiking in Iran?
Hitchhiking is something quite uncommon in Iran. In fact, many Iranians have no clue about the act of hitchhiking at all. This can make the hitchhiking experience either a fun adventure or difficult and confusing, depending on the type of traveller you are. I have hitchhiked twice in Iran, it was such an interesting experience compared to the other countries where I have hitchhiked. Almost every car stopped, but mostly just to ask us if we needed money for a taxi, or if they could bring us to the bus terminal and buy us a bus ticket. When we tried to explain it, most of them didnât really understand it at all. For me, that is the best part! Be prepared to make lots of new friends on the road, again.
TIP: On any occasion but especially during your hitchhiking adventures, withhold yourself from making the thumbs-up signal which in Iran has the same meaning as sticking up your middle finger. Although the younger generation understands the different meaning this signal has, it is still better to try and avoid it.
Iran is the only country where no one tries to screw you over
One last thing that happily surprised me a lot during my travels in Iran, is the fact that no one ever tried to screw me over. Whereas other countries, it is almost impossible to pay the local price for anything. Iran is one of the very few countries where they wonât ever do so â except for taxis but that is an unwritten rule, I guess.
Something that might make Iranâs financial world a bit tricky is the fact that Iran has two currencies, one which is the spoken one called Toman and one which is the official currency which is called Rial (IRR). It took me some time to get the hang of it but here is an easy way to remember; each Toman is equal to Ten Rials (1 Toman = 10 Rials). That means by dropping one zero from Rial you have itâs Toman equivalent.
Another thing to bear in mind is that due to economic sanctions, it is impossible to withdraw any money â meaning, other currencies â during your stay in Iran. This means you have to bring all the money you need for your whole trip in cash. Luckily, there are some trustworthy travel agencies who offer specific tourist cards which you can top up before and during your stay in Iran. These travel cards are usable like a normal bank card you can withdraw Iranian Rials and you can pay with the card everywhere.
Get yourself familiar with âTaâarofâ
To keep yourself out of uncomfortable situations, get yourself familiar with the Iranian politeness game called Taâarof. Taâarof is a form of over politeness, offering everything the other might desire. This politeness is fully embedded in the culture. In most cases, the person offering something major is most likely already expecting the other person to refuse. However, doing this with people who are not familiar with it could lead to awkward situations.
Here are a couple of examples which could be Taâarof:
If a taxi driver is telling you after your ride that you do not have to pay âYou are my guest, welcome to Iranâ this is surely Taâarof. Even if for any strange reason it is not, please, keep insisting to pay. Do not leave the car without paying. This goes for any kind of place that sells something, 99% of the time this is Taâarof. Especially keeping in mind the current economic situation, it would feel a bit wrong for a traveller to accept things like this for free.
If you are going out for food with your new Iranian friends and the moment arrives to pay, be ready with your money and make it a game to give it to the cashier sooner than your friends. Otherwise, it will be impossible for them to let you pay. If you lost the game of paying the fastest, then at least invite them for ice cream or coffee and repay the hospitality. (Unless your new Iranian friends and you have established a relationship where you know no one is Taâarofing, which will make life much easier)
If the above, is just as confusing to you as it was to me, then follow this safe rule; always refuse kindly for at least 4 or 5 times, if they still insist it is probably sincere. Have a good look at the body language and facial expression, that will give away a lot already. Most importantly, just have fun with it!
Conclusion
Iran was a country I just planned to travel through for a bit but ended up spending more than 7 months in. I will, from now on, and probably forever, join the group with the statement; âIran is my absolute favourite country!â.
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Food Souvenirs of Qeshm
Qeshm Island is not only a wondrous place for exploring untouched nature but also is home to a whole variety of local foods and cuisine. Known as âkhormaâ in Farsi, dates are typical products of the Island due to its warm and humid climate. There are hundreds of kinds of dates which differ in size, color, and flavor. Fresh and dried dates are two main types of dates which both are very popular in Iran.
Dates are used in so many Iranian meals and desserts. One of the most famous desserts in Southern Iran is a rich and sweet dish called âranginakâ. In order to make Ranginak fried butter and flour get mixed with dates, cinnamon and cardamom. This traditional dessert is aromatic and delicious.
One of the most famous local bread on the Island is âtomooshi nanâ which is baked quite different than the other breads. In order to make these tasty breads, eggs and cheese are added to the basic formula of bread dough and it is served with a local sauce named âmahi abeâ which consists of fish broth (Mahi Abe in Persian), coriander and mustard. It can also be served with âsooragh sauceâ Which includes special spice of Qeshm(red edible soil), Hashine Mahi, water, red roses, and bitter orange zest. Itâs commonly served for breakfast and is also used as a local souvenir.
Heller village in Qeshm City is famous for its fabulous local sweets and cakes. It has so many different kinds of sweets including âHeller Cakeâ. This fluffy cake is made of flour, eggs, sugar, and vanilla. The recipe might seem simple but the fantastic taste of it is what makes this cake unique.

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Chehel Sotoun is one of the best examples of the majestic UNESCO World Heritage Persian gardens in Iran
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