#tutorial reflections

Sleeve Tutorial

Add x2 layers of net to give extra lift to mimic design.

Make the top edge fit the arm by gathering the excess fabric into the binding. Add elastic to ensure it doesn't slip when dancing. 

2.5cm binding (meaning it has to be cut out at 10cm) at top

Zigzag stitch bottom raw edges of chiffon and silk

Before finishing off edges pull the netting inside apart to give more lift

Nice and full sleeves

The sleeves proved more of a problem for me than I thought originally. Initially I had only planned to spend one day on them at most but, because of medical set backs, I made several mistakes with them. In the end they took me 4 days (on and off) to complete. 

I found the chiffon, silk and organza layering very difficult to work with and even when tacked because I was working with such a small surface they kept moving around. Adding net was something I wanted more time to experiment with to get the right shape but in the end I had to just go with Marks original suggestion. 

Because the mannequin I was working on had no arms and the sleeves were not to be attached to the bodice I found I had a lot of free rein in the construction of them. If I had the time to redo them I would have taken more time to press them into the correct shape and this in turn would have reduced the bulky french seam on the inside. I felt I needed to french seam them as overlocking would be visible on the loose frills at the bottom. 

Final Decoration Tutorial

Cut down frayed bits to neaten up

Careful when sewing not to distort bodice

Start really small and gradually get bigger

Give everything one final press

Don't rush

I am really pleased how my decoration has turned out. I have about 9 different shades of pink in my costume in total without the decoration being too overwhelming. I found the flowers quite bulky to sew on, adding the the neatness and care challenge. 

Tutorial Notes

Flowers look lovely but make more...loads more! (Like, maybe 15 - 20 more)

On the bodice make it look like someone has thrown a bucket of flowers at it.

Start with small flowers at the right, bottom SF of bodice and them move up in clusters around the bottom CF and up to the top CF and left SF.

Clusters of 5 round bottom of skirt, not 6

Add a smaller ribbon to the big shoulder ribbons to tie the whole costume together

Apron looks lovely how it is, he agrees about the ribbons looking wrong. Maybe add small flower clusters to one of the sides at the end if I get time

Organza backing on sleeve (see sample photo above), gives it more body

Zigzag raw edges of sleeve

Use 1cm hot pink ribbon with 0.5cm cream ribbon sewn into the middle of it for elastic casing on sleeve edge

I am really pleased with how the flowers look, having made 50 of them over the weekend, and plan to spend the rest of the week sewing them to my bodice and tutu. Apart from attaching the decoration I also need to make 15-20 more flowers, finish the sleeves, attach fastenings to the tutu and add more ribbons to the strap ribbons.

Today I had intended to make and finish the sleeves but unfortunately had a blackout. I am really upset about this as this is the first blackout I have had in over 3 months, for me that was a massive achievement. It also means the work I did today was for nothing as, looking at it now it is sloppy, badly sewn and not actually what I was supposed to be doing. This means I've lost a day and am now not physically able to do any sewing this evening because I am shaky, very tired, falling over a lot and have a massive headache. I am now very concerned about getting my costume finished, not because I have an overwhelming amount to do but because, from past experience, when my medical conditions flare up they tend to get worse very suddenly before they get better. This may mean I will not be able to sleep properly over the next week or so, meaning I will struggle to wake up in the mornings therefore be late for class and adding the knock on effect of stress and tiredness to the mix. I am hoping this isn't the case as I was doing so well and am gutted to have relapsed today, on the final week.

I am hoping tomorrow will go smoothly. I will allow myself a lie in, in the hope that it helps ease my blackouts,and go into the studio for 10:30. My plan is to get all the flowers on the skirt sewn on and the fastenings. I do not need to worry about the essay hand in as I handed it in early today. 

Decoration Tutorial

The first flower samples (1st photo) are too life and lifeless, doesn't work with my theme. These flowers were made by singing the edges to binding them so they don't fray. This technique was taught to me by fellow classmate.

The new flower samples (2nd photo)  are more 3D and alive, fitting with  my theme much better.Really beautiful. Online Tutorial to make them can be found here x

Satin stitch the flower edges to bind them.

5 or 6 flowers per cluster, 6 clusters round bottom of skirt. Make them all different shapes and sizes. First two in line with nipple, second two just back side towards back and last two either side of CB. Cover row of ribbon but not above it

Small ribbons around edge of skirt 3 cm apart.

Large ribbons scrapped from skirt, don't need them.

15 - 20 flowers on bodice, stick to CF with them.

Make samples for sleeves using organza either between layers or as a backing.

No organza in apron, will ruin the shape.

Apron 21 inches down from waistband.

No ribbon on apron (I have just enough?) 

Work out sleeves next week but no bigger than 2.5cm sleeves elastic. 

Initial Designs

Fabric Samples

Back in March I went fabric sourcing for this project in Derby, as this is where I live during University holidays. I initially wanted to go to London to source fabric from Goldhawk Road but found to cost of train fare there and back to source and there and back to buy the final fabrics would be too much. 

I wanted to find a wide variety of colours, though my colour palette had already been set in my mind as different shades of pinks, and of materials; silk, chiffon, lace, satin and the fabric that inspired this project's theme Gingham. I am really pleased  with my samples and enjoyed finding them, I think fabric sourcing is one of my strengths and want to consider it as a skill I can include and build on in my future career in costume making. 

Notes from my tutorial with Mark.

- The tutu is going really well and I have managed to replicate the shape of the design well, but need to re-sew the placket on the skirt so it folds down and slots underneath the right side in-between the net and the placket.

- The bones in my bodice are a bit too short (only 3-5mm ish) which means I haven't had to create enough tension when sewing in the bones to keep the fabric on the bodice tight. Next time I need to stretch the seams slightly more when measuring for my bones to add on tension in the seams.

- My piping that edges the bodice isn't completely straight all the way along, needs to be improved on for the future.

- When making a bodice think about how it is constructed around the side seam so it can be let out easily if needed. In this bodice because of the thin fabric overlay it would have made more sense to not put piping in the side seam as unpicking this may damage the fabric, but as I have already but it in this seam I will leave it as it is. I will also need to put my braid decoration into the side seams so there is enough in the seam allowance to be let out if needed. This will involve unpicking the side seam to be done, if I had know this before I could have left the edges unsewn to save time and keep the fabric less handled.

- When attaching the braid, iron it first to flatten it and reduce bulk. The right-hand side needs to be placed under the overlocking on the inside and the left-hand side needs to be folded under itself on the edge of the placket make sure all the loose ends are caught down.

- Skirt decoration - the way it is applied works well but the green ribbon fades away when put at a distant, swop Russia braids over to try to bring this ribbon out more.

- Apron decoration - Flower technique creates the look needed but suggested to use other colours as well, like mustard, brown, burnt orange, but depends on budget as I have spent a lot already but I shall try to find scraps from mine and others fabrics left from other projects. I need to use a different fabric for the centre of the flowers as the colour shade doesn't work with the others. Also cover up any joins in the Russia braid as is will keep it looking neater and wont disrupt the sweeping line created with the Russia braid.

- How to make the apron

Work out length of the hem of the skirt

Measure the depth of the decoration and how much of the skirt I want left before the apron starts

This will give me the length of the apron

To work out the bottom width needs to be about in line with the point to point on the bodice

The top edge should go from the middle of each side front panel

Needs to be gathered at the top, but I don't want much so can cut in a tapered line rather than a rectangle if needed

Cut apron out with these measurements and roll hem and slip stitch down to give it a defined line around the edge of the apron

What needs to be done by Monday

Re-sew placket on skirt

Bodice finished with all decoration on

I had a tutorial with Mark today. After discussing my costume it became clear I had some work to do. Although this is a bit frustrating I do realise I will learn more from doing it. The Issues I am going to resolve I brought up in my weeks reflection.

The Chiffon skirt has pulled slightly. Mark has given me some tips for improving it. I am going to use a domestic sewing machine on a slightly longer stitch length. I will make sure I apply tension to both sides of the fabric (a bit like an elastic band). He also suggested using starch might help. 

My bodice has some lumps in it. When I ensured my boning channels I was trying to make sure I pulled the seams to flatten out this issue. Unfortunately It didn't really help enough. Mark thinks It is because the stayflex was not sercuraly fastened in the beginning steps. I think this is because I was having issues ironing it and trying not to crush the pile. Because of this I will take it back to this stage. 

I have two weeks left to complete my project. Because of the time restraints Mark is going to help me get started again. This will of course effect my final mark. But I will have at least learned how to do it better next time. My project proposal stated I wanted to learn how to use tricky fabrics. And that is what I am learning to do.