#truebias

Ogden dress:

pattern: True Bias Ogden cami with adaptations

fabric: cotton lawn

notion: thread

I have made the True Bias Ogden cami top in a Liberty lawn before. You can read about the changes to the strap and fitting here.

I bought this cotton lawn from Fabric Galore in London. The print is a mix of teal leaves with burgundy and light pink flowers. It's pretty. It was the end of the bolt and they kindly gave me the extra fabric, so I thought it would be nice to adjust the Ogden pattern, to make a dress version.

Pattern adjustments:

I added extra length to the bodice and back pattern pieces by 36 cm.

I wanted a ruffle hem for this dress. It adds to the dress length, as well as some additional shape and interest.

I cut the ruffle about 29 cm wide. For the length, I measured the circumference of the dress hem and multiplied it by 1.5 for gentle ruffles. The ruffle hem pattern pieces were cut on the fold (front and back). I tapered the side seams - 1 cm to 0 cm - top of ruffle to hem. This ensures a nice flow from the dress to the ruffle at the side seams.

There aren't any fastenings to the dress. It just slips on and is loose fitting.

I did sew the half bodice lining, as it encloses the armholes, neckline and straps very nicely.

Ogden cami top:

pattern: Ogden by True Bias

fabric: Liberty Tana Lawn cotton - Colombe Study

notion: thread

I made three versions of the Ogden cami top by True Bias.

The first one, I made in a cotton lawn, with the spaghetti straps, in a size 2. The top has a nice A-line shape.

The fitting wasn't quite right, as it was a bit tight.

I made a second one, with an adjustment to the straps. I wanted to make them wider. So, the finished width is now 3/4" or 2cm. I like the wider straps much better, as for everyday wear, it is better for covering my bra straps.

I also went up one size to size 4.

I still had some fitting issues with the back, which lifted up at the centre back. It's where the back V is, as it was pulling out to the sides.

This second cotton lawn version is still wearable though - as I intend to wear it as a layering piece, underneath some sheer tops.

So, next up - I made an adjustment to the pattern piece, at the centre back, by adding in 1/4" or 0.6mm, parallel to the centre back fold line. This added in a total of 1/2" or about 1cm to the centre back.

I made this third version, in a really pretty Liberty Tana Lawn cotton. It's a floral print called Colombe Study.

It was third time lucky, as this fits well. It has enough ease to be comfortable, and the centre back sits properly, without lifting up.