#toronto dining

THE TIG ARCHIVES│FOOD│FAT PASHA

“Staying ahead of the curve in the dining scene is one of those mildly competitive foodie things that I’m embarrassed to admit that I thrive on. But I do. Ridiculously, shamefully, truly. 

When weeks upon weeks of the new Middle Eastern Toronto gem, Fat Pasha, had opened and I was hearing about it from what felt like everyone around me (chef friends, TIG web manager, fashionable ladies who lunch), a fire was lit under my tukkis. I made the only reservation I could get for a Friday night in the shoebox sized dining space that once housed the Indian Rice Factory: 5:30pm. A Boca Raton timed supper, by way of Toronto.

Chef Kevin Gilmour serves up heaping platters of hummus drizzled with olive oil & smoked chipotle, whole roasted cauliflower billowing with tahini, pomegranate and halloumi, and a daily salatim of mixed pickled veggies and unctuous sides — the standout being the (ahem) rapini taboulleh (yes, please, and thank you).

Fret not carnivores, there’s meat, loads of beautifully grilled fish and skewers of shawarma.  With the brightness of the flavors and the quality of the ingredients, I have to say it is easy to go all veg here. Especially when washed down with drinks like the Lavendula (a gin, lemon, lavender syrup & mint cocktail).

It’s no surprise that owner Anthony Rose was able to extend the magic he has strewn down the block of Dupont, where he houses his other Annex neighborhood staple food spots, Big Crow and Rose & Sons. It’s not fussy food, it’s not hipster food, it’s frankly just really really good food.  Done well. With great music in the background, and a relaxed vibe that makes you want to settle into your shakshuka without a care in the world.

My only regret: not trying the Ice Cream Sundae with shredded halva, tahini (yes, tahini!), manishevitz jelly and crushed pistachios.

Barque Smokehouse, Toronto, ON

Food: Barbeque

http://barque.ca

Overall: 6.8 vs. restaurants priced at $$$/5.

Ambiance: Good.

Food: Very Good.

Service: Very Good.

Wine/Drinks: Good.

My rating scale: Exceptional, Very Good, Good, Ok, Needs Improvement, Terrible.

Overall: There aren’t too many BBQ joints in Toronto so it was nice to hit one with some solid food, especially one with a mega 500 lb smoker in the kitchen. Barque’s David Neinstein and Jonathon Persofsky call their place “Toronto’s Urban Barbeque – a lighter and healthier take on barbeque”. On the beverage side, they offer up some good local microbrews and it’s interesting that they are pairing wine with BBQ (I need to explore this more).

Ambiance: Barque is on a nice corner in Roncesvalles Village. It has a nice floral side patio that hugs Geoffrey Street. Nothing spoils patio seating more than rain, and it poured this night, but Barque is equipped to handle it given they've invested in a quality remote control awning. No Labatt's Blue beach umbrellas here. Side note: maybe it’s the sugar from the BBQ sauce or the flowers surrounding the deck, but you should be aware, there are wasps that dive in and out of the eating area. For those that are fearful of wasps it would a horrible situation.

Food: Toronto isn’t known as a BBQ hotbed so I wasn’t expecting Barque to do its ribs so well; the meat literally falls off the bone. One bite of the moist meat and you’ll quickly realize Barque does ribs very well. It doesn’t hurt that the portion size is more than sufficient too. Like all good BBQ, making it takes patience…the brisket is cooked for hours in the huge smoker, which I read is straight from Tennessee. We ordered the Barque platter consisting of ribs, chicken, brisket, and sides. The meat is smothered in incredible, sweet barbecue sauce. Over the years, I’ve eaten some incredible brisket (Salt Lick BBQ in Austin, Bangers on Rainy Street in Austin, Hill Country in NY, BBQ fest in Madison Square Park) and barbeque connoisseurs can get pretty particular about their brisket. So, in critiquing Barque’s brisket, although it is very good, when dining at Barque, if you only have one option, order the ribs. For sides I highly recommend the Mexican corn on the cob, it was the clear winner of the night. I'd steer you away from the fries unless you want sweet fries. The fries are rubbed in cinnamon and taste more like dessert.

Service: At first, I thought it was just our waitress that lacked style, wearing light colored, "mom bum" jean shorts but then I realized it wasn't just her and all of the waitresses were wearing that uniform, which made it all ok. I like that the restaurant is going after a southern look for its staff. It's a tough look to pull off, but our server was able to with a smile.

Wine/Drinks: I like how Barque is exploring wine and BBQ. I believe there is a wine for every food and many activities. Wine is not meant only to opine upon the cedar, leather, cherry, and licorice notes. It’s also meant to be drank and drank with food; BBQ is food. Barque was one of the first restaurants to create a wine-on-tap program, and they say that one out of every three glasses of wine comes from the tap. If I could critique, Barque should hire an experienced mixologist and load its menu with interesting bourbon and whiskey cocktails. David and Jonathon: Nashville's Patterson House is a great spot to get some ideas, no one does cocktails better.

Eat well my friends,