#thornproof dressing

My only problem is that a freshly waxed jacket looks nowhere as attractive as a really worn one! This means it boils down to a question of looks over functionality, only solved by having two jackets, where one is waxed to weather storms, the other really worn out and looking great. Not a huge problem, as secondhand waxed jackets such as Barbours, are available in decent condition for a song through the usual secondhand sources.

This isn’t the actual Barbour Border in question, but the patina and wear are very similar to mine.

A Barbour Border with extreme patina

This article though is about a specific one I bought because it looked pretty blinding. A Barbour Border, the longer and more utilitarian version, popular among farmers and outdoorsy folks. This one looked like it had been used daily for years, being dragged through hedges every which way. Top grade patina, as a garmologist would describe it. It even included the furry lining (which is made of acrylic fibres, would be nice to have an actual wool fleece one. Maybe a future easy project?).

Upon arrival at Garms HQ it immediately became apparent though that there was an issue that would be hard to ignore. It absolutely flipping reeked! Apart from beached whales, there is sadly little that can smell as bad as a really ripe old waxed jacket. It was so bad that I couldn’t even unwrap it inside. Now there are a lot of tips floating around regarding how to remove “the odour le vintage” from old clothes, and most of it as total rubbish. Maybe it helps to air for a day or two, hanging in the sun, or popping it in the freezer, but only for the weakest of smells. If it’s a proper reeky old piece there is only one thing that helps: 40 degrees in the washing machine with plenty of detergents. You could add vinegar, but to be honest I don’t think it helps.

  Henceforth known as “Aulde Reekie”

This jacket needed two or three proper washes. No express or wool programme, the proper 40-degree standard cotton wash. It came out the wash with the reek removed. It also came out of the wash with something else removed: The wax. And most of the patina. And all the cuts and flaws were also revealed. So, to be generous, at least only a partial success then, and before being washed I was ready to kill it with fire.

Wax can be replaced though, so the big experiment here was to see if I could rewax it and possibly bring back that delightful patina. The rewaxing process can be pretty daunting the first time, but it’s pretty simple really and doesn’t require a huge investment in tools or workspace. There are various brands of wax available, Barbour and Otter are pretty equivalent in being applied as fluids, but Fjällraven has a different type applied as a heated bar, giving a more lightweight waxing.

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The cotton coat fabric after two 40 degree washes to remove the reeek.

Heating the tin of wax in a saucepan of water to make it flowable and retain heat.

Let’s give it a fresh wax!

When doing jobs like this I always find it helps to think through what is going to be achieved and how it actually works. For this job, it’s about getting an even and sensible amount of wax over the surfaces, and ensuring wax gets into the folds and seams. A good starting point for success is to keep the wax at the proper temperature to keep it flowing well. It also means care should be taken in distributing the wax and using gentle, circular movements to ensure it is applied from all angles to make sure it’s evenly distributed.

One problem that can quickly become obvious is that the wax will harden almost immediately it is applied to the fabric. It will help if the ambient temperature is higher, but otherwise, this just means there will be work to do with a hairdryer after the coat is suitably covered in wax. Using a lint-free rag, heat and wipe, redistributing the wax and removing the excess, aiming for a uniform surface look.

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Wax being applied using a rag.

Wax being applied using a rag.

The problem with using a hairdryer is that you really need either three hands, a helper, or a way to really pin the jacket in place, as trying to use both the heat and the rag at the same time can be quite infuriating. One option would be to use a fan blowing hot air, thus allowing you to work with both hands.

The amount of wax left on the jacket will also determine the finish of the final result. Cover the fabric with a liberal coating and it’ll be quite shiny and longer-lasting. For a more suave and sophisticated city slicker matt look, just allow the wax that has penetrated the fabric to remain and remove most of the rest.

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A full coating of wax has been applied all over.

A full coating of wax has been applied all over.

Now, “Aulde Reekie” was roughly speaking as denuded of wax as it could possibly be, so it took a fair amount of wax to cover it. In fact, a whole tin of the Barbour-branded thornproof dressing. How much that was wiped off under the post-application process is hard to say, the rag was pretty soaked, but I think I can safely say that for a jacket that hasn’t been “zeroed” like this one, the amount of wax necessary to replenish the repellency will certainly be a lot less.

While doing a rewax it’s wise to prepare the work surface. I cover it with newspaper, taped together to avoid them shiting or gaping, and mostly wear rubber gloves while working, as it’s not easy to wash the wax off. This also goes for the details of the jacket that you don’t want to be waxed, such as the corduroy collar. Care taken will be massively repaid in later cleanup work avoided.

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Outside in the sun, a day after post-wax work.

The fabric is saturated with wax, ensuring water repellency.

In summary, how did rewaxing “Aulde Reekie” work out?

Well, I got rid of the smell, but the wash likely shrunk it a little, so a partial success. Removing the wax meant the fabric was thirsty for lots of fresh wax, so it really lapped it up and it took more than I expected to cover it fully. The patina though, the real point of this jacket, was sadly lost in the process and it now looks more like a new jacket than one with masses of character. Hence, the moral of the story must be that if you’re after a waxed jacket with a properly aged look, find one that doesn’t smell really bad! And if you plan to keep it a long time, try rewaxing it.

Left to my own devices on a recent weekend, I decided to re-wax my old Barbour Beaufort. With my girlfriend and roommates out of town I had the apartment to myself, so what better way to pass a sunny Saturday afternoon then with thornproof Barbour waxed dressing and a cask-aged Manhattan?

I bought my first Barbour several years ago, used on eBay for about fifty quid. I've since bought another this way. I highly recommend it. Used Barbours, in great shape, can be had on the British eBay at considerable savings - so long as you're willing to put in the labour re-waxing these aged beauties.

The process is deceivingly simple; as long as you follow a few simple steps it's hard to screw up.

You can see how faded the jacket looks after a season or two of wear without being properly waxed. While the patina of faded olive may look nice, the light almost-khaki coloured patches are spots where the wax dressing is completely worn off, and thus the durability and waterproofing of the jacket has been compromised. Furthermore a dried-out Barbour will rip and fray, the wax dressing keeps the fabric moist and resilient to things like... thorns.

I've read various blogs on how to wax a Barbour, and while most of the information in the blogosphere is good it tends to make the process sound more complex than it really is. The blogs also tend to skim over the fact that your hands will get very waxy undertaking this project, and it takes a little elbow grease.

First and foremost you need an open space, preferably a large table that you can move around easily. Spread the jacket out on newspaper, and give it a quick brush down to remove any chunks of mud or dust. Don't use soap or water. Ever.

Next you need to pull out your handy tin of Barbour waxed dressing. There may be other brands that do the same job - I don't really know, but this tin cost me twelve quid a couple years ago, and it does the job properly, so not worth messing around with imitators.

At this point you may want to grab your cocktail or single malt of choice.

To turn the wax into a liquid drop it in a pot of boiling water. Within a couple minutes it will turn clear and runny. Pull it out, throw it on a coaster near your jacket.

I use disposable sponges to apply the waxed dressing. They're good because they can absorb some wax, but also don't have too much surface area, and they are disposable.

Now the trick to applying the wax is to dab a little on to the sponge, then one section at a time apply it to your jacket. Map out a plan of attack so you don't miss any spots. Avoid the temptation to just start painting your jacket all willy-nilly. Go one sleeve at a time, then one front panel at a time, and when you're content you've got the whole front of the jacket coated, stand down for five minutes, refresh your drink, and then start on the back.

You want to do more than just lather the jacket; you need to really rub it in. Pay special attention to seams, and creases, and high friction places. If you wear a backpack, or throw a bag over your shoulder frequently when wearing your jacket the shoulder areas are likely in need of a heavy coating.

Don't worry too much about getting the wax in the buttons or zippers, it will rub off with everyday wear.

Finally hang the jacket up, not only to let it breathe, but also so you can give it a final 360 degree inspection. The wax should still be relatively soft, especially if you're in a warm apartment, so you can move around any clumps, or touch-up any spots you missed. If you are looking for a factory quality finish take a blow dryer to the jacket, this will ensure an even and smooth looking sheen to the jacket, and will break up any wax stuck in seems or grooves.