ANCIENT GREEK TEGANITES (2nd c.)
A lazy Sunday morning had me make my next Tasting History dish, Ancient Greek Teganites. This dish comes from De Alimentorum Facultatibus, or 'On the Properties of Foodstuffs', a 2nd century account of the foods of the day by Greek physician Claudius Galen. These Teganites are the Ancient Greek equivalent of our modern pancakes. After describing these Teganites, Galen gives tips on how to keep your humors balanced - add honey and toasted sesame seeds on top. I chose to make this recipe because it's only natural to crave pancakes on a Sunday morning, the recipe was very simple, and I was curious to find out how different 2nd century pancakes would taste from ours today. See Max’s video on how to make it here or see the ingredients and process at the end of this post, sourced from his website.
I made a couple small changes to the modern recipe below. I halved the recipe, because I didn't want as many as Max said the recipe would make. Then, I didn't have any thinner, runny honey like Max used, so I used the thicker, but perhaps more flavoured, German Linden tree honey (which I prefer, anyways). Also, I happened to have some toasted sesame seeds at home from another recipe I made, so I skipped the section of the method that requires toasting the sesame seeds.
The preparation was a super simple; it honestly felt as easy as making modern pancakes (or even simpler). Because my honey was a little thicker than Max's, it did take a little longer than expected to combine with the water and flour, but it worked eventually. Max made fairly small, little Teganites, and I decided to do the same. The little dollops browned fairly quickly, some of them with swirly lines of browning, and some with bubbles. They inflated a tiny bit while cooking, but returned to their roughly Dutch pannenkoeken thickness upon serving. Overall, I was very happy with how they turned out - all with fairly even browning and looking just like the Teganites Max had made. Bringing all my possible toppings to the table, I first tried them how Galen and Max suggest: drizzled with honey and scattered with toasted sesame seeds. Afterwards, however, the Canadian in me emerged, and I opted to douse them in a little pure, Grade A maple syrup straight from the can, with a scant amount of salt and a strawberry or two to achieve that sweet and salty balance.
My experience tasting it:
The Teganites were absolutely divine. In my opinion, better than modern pancakes. They had a crispiness, especially along the edges, that gave them a wonderful texture. The inside remained a little denser than the average pancake, but you could taste the sweet and savoury balance that the honey and salt brought, especially along with the toasted sesame seeds on top. For my second taste, with the maple syrup, strawberries, and a bit of salt, I even did my happy 'this is so yummy' food dance at the table (although, I might always do that whenever maple syrup is involved). My husband, even though he's not a big fan of pancakes (strange, I know, but I forgive him), even liked them, and that's a pretty big achievement. He suggested that, next time, they might be even better with some cheese melted on top. I say, let's do it! I will probably make this recipe fairly often on weekends - it feels easier than making pancakes and gives a more complex flavour. They can also be dressed up in so may different ways, so I plan to experiment with them. I might even throw bacon bits in the Teganites batter and see what happens! If you end up making them, if you liked them, or if you changed anything from the original recipe, do let me know!
Teganites original recipe (c. 1st c.)
Sourced from De Alimentorum Facultatibus by Galen.
Now might be the time we talk of the other cakes, those made from wheat flour. What are called tagênitai by the Athenians…and are prepared with only olive oil. The oil is put in a frying pan which is put on a smokeless fire, and when it is hot the wheat flour, mixed with much water, is poured into it. As it cooks in the oil, it quickly sets and thickens to resemble fresh cheese setting in wicker baskets. Then the cook turns it over…; when the under part is cooked, they turn it again, maybe two or three times, until they think it is all cooked evenly.
It is obvious that this…restrains the stomach and gives rise to crude humors. So some mix it with honey, and others also mix in sea salt.
Based on De Alimentorum Facultatibus by Galen and Max Miller’s version in his Tasting History video.
1 cup (120 g) whole wheat flour
Whisk the salt into the water. In a large bowl, add the water and honey to the flour and mix. Cover and let it sit for 20 minutes.
If using the sesame seeds, toast them in a dry pan over medium heat for a couple of minutes, or until they start to brown and become fragrant. Set aside.
Heat olive oil in a frying pan, enough to evenly coat the bottom, but not enough to make a puddle. Pour the batter into the pan (the size of the pancake is up to you). Cook for about 1 1/2 minutes, or until the edges start to lose their sheen, then flip and cook on the other side. Repeat with the rest of the batter, adding more olive oil as needed.
Serve the teganites forth hot with a drizzle of honey and sprinkle of sesame seeds.
