Porthtowan 21.09.2020
Feck is the single word I can use to describe this surf session... urgh...
It’s been two weeks due to a knee injury, I strained my LCL ligament (a weird one) I can still walk but other movements are hindered, like squatting and turning quickly i.e. most pop-up movements.
But I decided after two weeks and two chiro sessions that I’d brave it as my knee was feeling good. But the 2 to 3ft forecast was actually around 3 t 4ft and mostly closeouts at that. So I felt like I’d gone back in my surfing, regressed as it were and it all became a head game.
I sucked, I couldn’t catch a wave and I hesitated on top of the waves when I did get them so ended up looking down the wave and thinking sjoe that’s big, so then stopped. A great paddling session and a load of wipe outs = not fun.
Afterwards, I tried to remember that these kak sessions help us appreciate the good ones.
Luckily, the forecast is heinous for the next few days and I’ve work so fingers crossed the knee improves more and that the next good surf is gentle.
