#stickweld

Stick welding is one of the oldest, simplest yet widely used welding processes. Stick welding is the technique that makes use of a covered electrode also referred to as stick. Stick welding is considered the most versatile among all the other electrical welding methods. This process works by melting the flux that covers the electrode and welds a metal piece. It also produces gas and flux as these both shield the arc and the weld pool of molten metal. The welding professional must chip off the slag after the work piece has been welded. The flux also adds certain type of alloy elements and other impurities to the metal during the weld. This welding process is flexible and versatile which makes it possible to be used by many welding professionals. You can use this type of welding to make small repairs around your home, for repairing equipment and used in the erection of still and also in various other types of commercial welding.

Here are some important tips that a beginner needs to focus on while performing stick welding.

Length of arc

It is crucial to have the correct length of the arc for stick welding. The correct arc length varies with each electrode and application. The arc length should not exceed the diameter of the metal portion (core) of the electrode. For example: a 1/8 inch 6010 electrode is held about 1/8 inch off the base material. When the electrode is held too closely, it decreases the welding voltage. An excessive long arc creates spatter, undercuts, low depression rates and porosity.

Most of the beginners weld with too long of an arc, to get a better view of the arc and puddle, and that creates rough beads with lots of spatter. With little practice, you’ll realize that a controlled arc improves bead appearance, creates a narrower bead and minimizes spatter.

Current setting

The type of electrode you choose determines the type of current the machine wants whether a DC positive, DC negative or AC. Don’t forget to use the correct setting for your specific type. Electrode positive offers more penetration, while electrode negative provides better results for thinner metals. Choose your amperage based on the electrode, welding position, and visual inspection of the finished weld. For ideal amperage setting, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.

Angle of travel

Stick welding uses a ‘drag’ or ‘backhand’ technique for welding in a flat, horizontal and overhead positions. Hold the rod perpendicular to the weld joint. Tilt the top of the electrode approximately 5 to 15 degrees in the direction of travel. For welding vertically up, a ‘push’ or ‘forehand’ technique is used. Tilt the top of the rod away from the travel of direction at 15 degrees.

Speed of travel

A weld bead with the desired contour, width and appearance is produced with the proper travel speed. Adjust the travel speed that allows you to keep the arc in the leading one-third of the weld pool.

Manipulation of electrode

Each welder manipulates the electrode in a different way. Create your own style by observing other stick welder, practicing and noting the methods that must be used for the best results. Note that on a material 1/4 inch and thinner, weaving the electrode is not needed as it will create a bead that is wider than necessary. In most of the cases, straight bead works fine.

For creating wider bead on thicker materials, manipulate the electrode from side to side, creating a continuous series of partially overlapping circles in a Z shaped, semi-circle or stutter-step pattern. Limit side to side motion to times the diameter of the electrode core. To cover a wider area, make multiple passes or stringer beads. While welding vertically up, concentrate on welding the sides of the joint. Move slowly across the middle of the joint, so that the weld puddle can catch up and pause slightly to ensure the solid tie-in to the sidewall.