Your ranking & my ranking of the best rock climbers wonât match. Hereâs why.
TLDR: Rock climbing operates like every other sport: Sponsorship is about a lot more than performance; and gender bias prevails. Please stop acting surprised.
Non-rock climbers wonât stop talking to me about Alex Honnold. Not necessarily about his free solo ascents of big walls, but just about his segment, more generally, on 60 Minutes.
âSo how do you measure success in rock climbing? Is it speedâhow fast somebody gets up a wall?â they ask.
For America, fittingly, TV finally made rock climbing a recognizable sport. If it werenât for Alex Honnold in 2015, rock climbing would continue to be discussed exclusively by rock climbers.
Relative to other competition sports, rock climbing remains obscure. In fact, I still meet many people who donât realize it will be part of the 2020 Olympics. And, non-climbers certainly do not understand how it will be scored (to be fair, neither do climbers, but thatâs another issue).
Still, any sportâwell known or otherwiseâparticipates in a massive multi-billion-dollar industry. In 2010, the New York City Marathon increased the cityâs economy by $340 million. The Chicago Cubs generate an alleged $600 million each year for the state of Illinois. The sports industry produced almost 500,000 jobs in America in 2013, from coaches, to referees, to agents (Bleacher Report). This estimate does not, for example, include the stadium vendors, ticket sales specialists, or related third-party jobs (Economic Modeling Specialists Intâl).
Basically, sports are a mega moneymaker.
Rock climbing gyms, youth teams, and training camps are cropping up everywhere. Whether you like it or not, rock climbing is becoming a more popular sport.
Why is this important? Well, if you pay attention to the goings-on of the climbing community, there is a subtle but salient debate occurring. Itâs about who contributes the most to our community.
Is it the first ascentionist? Is the person who bolts the lines? Is it the most well-rounded, best-performing, highest-ranked athlete? Is it the World Cup winner?
When you pay attention to the climbing communityâs debate, itâs clear how young and immature this sportâand its stakeholdersâtruly are. I donât mean this as an insult. Rather, Iâm saying it as a reminder, a gut check.
Rock climbers have the acute advantage of learning from other competitive sports: how to handle sponsorship, how to handle diversity, how to protect the environment, how to reward good citizensâŚ
Letâs start with sponsorship.
In 2011, Adidas purchased family favorite Five Ten for $25 million in cash (Gear Junkie). In 2014, Columbia Sportswear bought Prana Living for $190 million  (Dealbook, New York Times). In 2016, Petzl reported 700 employees and consolidated revenue of âŹ154 million. There are myriad climbing gear and clothing companies from Sterling Ropes to Mammut to Evolv to Metolius to Mad Rock to The North Face.
Sponsored athletes from each of these multimillion-dollar companies are hired to showcase new gear and model clothing. Athletes inspire young people to participate in the same sport and endorse the quality of a particular product. When sponsored athletes mess up, theyâre dropped. Itâs pretty simple.
Ryan Lochte, 12-time Olympic medalist in swimming, lost his endorsement from Speedo after he lied about a non-sports related incident in Rio. Doping cost pro-cyclist Lance Armstrong sponsorship from Nike, Oakley, and 24-Hour Fitness, as well as earned him a lifetime ban from competing in any sporting event governed by the U.S. anti-doping agency. Golfer Tiger Woods lost sponsorship from Accenture, AT&T, Buick, Gatorade, and Tag Heuer after his extra-marital affairs became public. The list goes on.
Because rock climbing is growing in popularity, companies have the luxury of choice. There are so many talented climbers today; itâs nearly impossible to say one person is holding the torch for us all (except maybe Adam Ondra). So, sponsorship is a fickle thing.
Bad behavior begets repercussions. Even minor incidents can cost you major endorsements.
Now letâs talk about gender.
There is a huge disparity in funding and sponsorship opportunities between male and female rock climbers. Just 29 percent of sponsored rock climbers are women. Ergo, there are 2.5 men with climbing sponsorships for each sponsored woman (Alan Kimbrough Mooreâs Blog).
When such a huge disparity in funding and sponsorship exists between genders, this means that women have fewer opportunities to obtain coaching, gain competition experience, travel for climbing, or, generally, spend time on training. In turn, this will affect performance. The cycle continues as women trail in performance, and cease to gain sponsorship. Experienced female climbers lack the same financial rewards as their male counterparts, and they stop climbing earlier. And so on.
âThe self-perpetuating cycle of womenâs sport being given less attention than menâs, and seen as less âdeservingâ, continues,â writes Tamsin Kelly in, âAre Men And Woman Treated Equally In Sport? Sadly, not yet,â for the Huffington Post.
Outside climbing, only 7 percent of sports media coverage is devoted to womenâs sports and just 0.4 percent of commercial investment goes to women-only sports, according to The Womenâs Sports and Fitness Foundation.
Nevertheless, over 60 percent of sports fans polled said they would like to see more womenâs sport on TV (WSFF).
As you can see, itâs not an issue of demand. Itâs an issue of the economics of opportunity.
Lack of sponsorship may also affect, for example, the amount of time female climbers spend developing new areas or establishing first ascents. Instead, pressured to âprove themselvesâ in a male-oriented industry, female climbers seek to repeat hard sport routes, boulders, or big wall climbs.
And âprove themselves,â they do. In 1990, Lynn Hill was the first woman to redpoint 5.14, Masse Critique in CimaĂŻ, France. This was after the first ascentionist, a Mr. Tribout, claimed no woman would ever be able to climb it (Wikipedia).
Although there were a lot of there âfirstsâ in-between, in 2012, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American woman to climb 9a (5.14d), making her the best female sport climber in America by difficulty. She was also the first North American Woman to onsight 8b+ (5.14a) (not to mention, she would go on to be 3-time US National Champion).
Meanwhile, during those same years, Joe Kinder was working on high-quality first ascents, including Bone Tomahaw, 9a (5.14d), Weekend At Bernie's 8c (5.14b), Southern Smoke 8c+ (5.14c), and Maquina Muerte 8c+ or 9a (5.14d) (The Project Magazine). This made him at least one of the strongest American developers, if not the best developer, of new hard lines.
Who is the better climber? Better community member? Better role model? Who deserves sponsorship the most?
Personally, I believe sports have four major areas of contribution to society, and I will order them by what will likely be the least to the most controversial for rock climbers:
Health â Sports promote active, healthy lifestyles.
Community â Sports provide a sense of community to rally around causes, such as the environment, a sense of identity, and diversity.
Economy â Sports provide jobs and contribute to local economies, often through entertainment.
Celebrity â Sports celebrities increase cause-related marketing and become role models for future generations.
I bet you can see where Iâm going with this logic.
There are many ways sports contribute to society, and many ways an athlete can contribute to the sport.
Frankly, Iâm pretty frustrated with current dialogue surrounding climbersâ contributions.
When you limit contributions to a singular measure (or grade), it becomes quite exclusive, alienating.Â
The narrative also tends to be biased by a white, male-centric history.
What if we lived in a world where the most talented climber was that person who could hang from the smallest hold? In this world, womenâgenerally perceived to be stronger than men at crimping small holdsâwould be on top. How would you feel about this measure of performance, of being âthe bestâ? How would this change the dynamics of sponsorship or gender diversity?
When you think back on Alex Honnold and his 60 Minutes of global attention, it would be quite plausible for him to have said, âIn climbing, the smaller the hold, the harder the climb.â My family would have believed that. My non-climbing friends would have bought it.
Grades are just one measure of difficulty. So is climbing without a rope, so is trying new beta or movement, so is putting up a first ascent or being âfirstâ to any degree.
It seems clear to me that rock climbing is just like other sports. Yes, I know. You want to it be different because rock climbingâto any rock climberâseems like a lifestyle more than mere entertainment or an extracurricular activity.
However, sponsored rock climbers are simply professional athletes. They advertise for brands in order to sell more products and boost local economies. They become role models for future generations of the sport, and these generations look for diversity of gender, race, identity, geography, disability, and age.
Future generations say, âI admire this athlete because sheâs from my hometown⌠she has a particular skill⌠she looks like me⌠sheâs my same age⌠she has passion⌠she shares my values...â
Famous athletes have the privilege to promote causes, from environmental protection to the eradication of childhood poverty. Rock climbing, like swimming, golf, and basketball, provides athletes with a platform to promote equality and human rights.
NFL players who kneel during the national anthem use their limelight and notoriety to advance the cause of Black Lives Matter. The U.S. Gymnastics team leverages their popularity and podium to advance the #MeToo movement. Alex Honnold operates the Honnold Foundation to provide solar energy for a more equitable world.
If a rock climber uses her prominence in the community to speak out against bullying, we should champion that cause, not criticize it. When climbing companies behave like sponsors of any other sport, we should accept that rock climbing is maturing as a business, keeping in mind that we, as consumers, still have power. Eventually, when lessons are learned and the time (and rehabilitation) is right, we should forgive inhumanly strong athletes for their humanity (yup, looking at you, Michael Phelps).
I like to imagine Joe Kinderâs enthusiasm, his genuine zest for the sport when he said, âI am really pleased with my generation of climbers. We are at a really vital point where climbing is growing like crazy, itâs getting more respect as a real sport, and it can only get bigger and better,â (Climbing Magazine).
Rock climbing will only get bigger. Thatâs true. But, better is up to us.