#smocked

SMOCKED FIT TOP by Saliwa

Smocked Medieval Man Costume

The inspiration for this costume is Vogue #8826. I always wished commercial patterns were dated – it would help costume historians so much. (The pattern sold for $5 in its day). I was looking for something different to wear to a ‘Summer Solstice’ party in 1989 and came across this dress with embroidery designed by Erica Wilson, the needlework doyenne of the day. It was the largest attempt at smocking that I ever did, thankful I had the pleater to make all those hundreds of pleats and not having to use those dreadful sheets with the iron-on dots that you had to hand gather! The smocked designs cover the front, sleeve heads, and go across the back of the costume. It was not so bad dealing with the massive amounts of smocking, but dealing with the yard of fabric at the bottom to make sure it stayed clean or did not get caught in the stitching was a real challenge!

The costume was made from maroon cotton with a fine gold stripe in it; it was smocked with gold embroidery floss. I reversed the front placket to the ‘men’s direction and enlarged the neck to fit me. I remember embroidering this costume during the winter/spring to make sure I would have it finished on time for the Summer Solstice. It ended up being a unisex costume; I have lent it to a couple of women to wear to medieval fairs, men’s front placket, hat, and all. Made from cotton, it’s a very light robe to wear. 

I may be the only person ever to make this Vogue pattern! Only a real masochist would ever consider that much embroidery ‘fun.’ I’m sure it was not a big seller for Vogue.