#sewing reference

Day One

I laid out my print out pattern and taped it together on my bed. Back pain level at 7/10.

Day Two

I laid out everything to measure and revise my pattern.

Day Three

I forgot to take a picture of my tracing step. I didn't have a colored chalk; all there was, was pink chalk for a pink fabric. I ended up using a water soluble pencil, which was really just a blue crayon.

I steam ironed for the first time. I realized I've never actually smelled fresh linen before, but I can see why it would be a popular candle scent.

The last time I tried to sew pants from scratch, I basically botched the whole job. My attempts at tailoring made them a full three inches too small at the waist because I didn't factor in either ease or the bulk of the fabric itself, and it was only because the waistband was trapped under about four layers of shirts and belts that i wore them at all.

So far I've been trying to wrangle a vintage pattern and I decided to write out my process since I'm combining techniques in a way that took me ages to figure out.

After two muslin mock-ups, the pattern would fit well on the waist, but turn way too baggy around the thigh. My alterations between the two mockups focused on changing the width at the outer side seams, and they didn't seem to fix this issue at all.

After a lot of head-scratching, I changed tacks. I pulled up a youtube tutorial on how to draft a pants pattern using a premade pair of pants that already fits you, using a pair of jeans that are snug and non-stretchy. Then I overlaid the resulting pattern onto the pattern I had been using.

And the culprit reveals itself! The front (first picture) is smaller all around, but both the front and back on my pattern have a much shallower crotch curve and a lot less space at the inseam than the printed pattern. Basically, they're making room for ass and thighs that I just don't possess.

or, How I Resigned Myself To Spending My Tips For The Next Few Months On Silk Habotai

so, as some of you may know, I am finally attempting to realize my long-standing dream of owning Lucille Sharpe’s nightgown and robe from Crimson Peak. they’re gorgeous, they look very comfy, and I’m a big goth drama queen who’s been spending vastly more of her time in loungewear since last March

(is that about to change? possibly. but I’m still not exactly a social butterfly. badum-tss.)

I have a pattern that will probably make a good base for the nightgown on the way- Reconstructing History’s “women’s Irish leine” pattern, specifically. so I turned my attention to the robe

because like. you have to have the robe, obviously

and what I found was a secret method for getting a lot of Billow(TM) out of a relatively sleek garment. well, not exactly secret, but not easily noticed while watching a movie

P L E A T S

as you can see, the entire back is reverse-box-pleated. it only shows in close-up, but it means the robe sits relatively flat against her back while still being super-voluminous (and the neckline/front opening edges appear to be finished with self bias binding, though I might be “reading” that wrong)

the sleeves look like a top piece that’s also pleated, and an underside piece that isn’t. I...think the two pieces are joined at the back and left open in the front, not just completely unattached to each other? I’ll have to watch a bit more

I honestly can’t think of ANYTHING to use as a base pattern for this. I got lucky with the leine, but now I might have to actually drape/draft something more complicated than a 1920s evening gown bodice on my own body. for the first time

Picked up this fitting book from 1963 called Sewing Pants for Women by Elsé Tyroler.

Chart for quickly converting fractions into decimals and back.

Numerators along the top, denominators along the left side.

Common sewing measurements are in 8ths and 16ths, so those columns are particularly useful.

This is handy if you are making lots of tubular shapes, or needing to convert circumference calculations into fractional measurements for pattern drafting.