#rosecordero

(images via wwd)

wwd gave an approving nod to sophie theallet's reference equivalent to a wink for her a/w 2011 collection: "a nice way to combine her French roots with something so distinctly American: the beret-wearing Bonnie Parker as muse."  (lest she go crrrrrazy and select an influence without the proper americana to it: we might have a lynching of words, as when michelle obama committed that so-hideous fashion crime of wearing an alexander mcqueen gown of late.)

creatively, though, this was a move forward for ms. theallet, who has been known for her bohemian silhouette in seasons past.  however, none of that was at play for her fall collection, which offered ladylike garments in the extreme (although there were a few masculine-tailored pieces mixed in).   silky draped dresses grabbed the spotlight, while more than a few looks casually displayed quite a lot of thigh; after all, this is a woman who uses sexuality to her advantage. 

one of the season's recent buzzwords has been 'color-blocking', and ms. theallet used it to lovely effect on her runway, both subtly (as on one of her more masculine jackets, in hues of navy and a lighter, denim shade) and as a dramatic flourish (on the second exit, a knit blouse which proffered juxtaposed tones of burgundy and fuschia). 

style's review began a hint of a lament; "even as you understood Théallet's forward momentum, you imagine that her fans might long just a bit for last season's richly detailed, colorful vision," but this felt more grasping at straws than a true critique.  indeed, had the designer stayed in place, she would have been docked for it.  instead, she took us on this beautiful, unexpected journey.  besides, when has playing a vixen looked this good?