#rim-set

As I have mentioned in my last post, I have only worked on shutters that are in fairly fine shape. After a good cleaning in lighter fluid bath, the shutter is ready for lubrication.

Synthetic lubricants have many advantages. In particular, they do not gum-up like petroleum based lubricants in extreme low-temperature. For oil lubrication, I use a very light full-synthetic oil blend with nano-sized ceramic particles which attach themselves onto and into the asperities of the metal. I mix 50/50 Finish Line Ceramic Full-synthetic Lube with Yamaha Full-synthetic Valve Oil (music store). For grease lubrication, I use Finish Line Ceramic Full-synthetic Grease.

1. Compur Rim-set and Compur-Rapid

These shutters have a main ring around the shutter mounting hub, see photo below. The main ring has a strong spring attached to it with the other end anchored to the shutter body, see photo below.

One common problem with all these shutters that I have cleaned is the friction between the shutter mounting hub and the main ring. This ring rotates around the shutter mounting hub and it triggers a sequence of parts as it rotates CCW when the shutter is released. The major load of this drive spring is to drive the speed escapement and the timer escapement if installed. But the spring also has to overcome the friction between the shutter mounting hub and the main ring. All the shutters I have restored require a judicious coat of light grease along the inner rim of the ring and the hub surface where the ring rubs against. Only with this done the shutter would then operate flawlessly.

One may also wish to place a very tiny drop of oil on the pivots circled in red and a very light coat of grease on the lever and lug surfaces circled in blue. That is all the lubrication required of these shutters. For these Compur shutters, the escapement should run dry if they are in good shape.

2. Synchro-Compur:

There are two Synchro-Compur shutter designs.

1. The early Synchro-Compur shutter has a main ring and a main spring very much like the Compur Rim-set and Compur Rapid. The difference is the release mechanism with MX sync. Lubricate this shutter as above.

2. In mid-50's, Synchro-Compur shutter has a drive wheel/pinion/spring unit that drives the escapement. It has a main ring with teeth and a smaller main spring. However, the main ring's prime function is to set and release the drive wheel/pinion/sprint unit. The main spring does not drive the speed escapement as earlier Compur shutter.

This is a re-print from Synchro-Compur repair manual. Note: there is no indication that the speed escapement or the timer escapement needs any lubrication ... quite contrary to most posting on the web.

Thanks for visiting. Comments, feedback and questions are welcome.

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As I have posted in previous blog, the topic of cleaning a shutter is a contentious subject. When a shutter is sluggish or stuck (assuming no parts are broken nor missing), the common remedy is to clean and lubricate the shutter. There are three common approaches to CL(A) the shutter; C=clean, L=lubricate (A)=adjust. Method-1. Without removing the shutter from the camera, clean the shutter by dripping some lighter fluid onto specific area; and then lubricate specific parts. Method-2. Remove the shutter from the camera. Soak the whole shutter in a lighter fluid bath. Blow it dry and then lubricate specific parts. Method-3. Remove the shutter from the camera. Disassemble the shutter and clean the parts. Re-assemble, lubricate specific parts and adjust the shutter. I am not a fan of Method-1. The solvent dispenses the old lubricant and dirt to other areas of the shutter, potentially leading to other problems. It is a short term fix, not a real Clean and Lubricate job. Method-3 is a complete Clean, Lubricate and Adjust job, no argument. However, it is a very involved task. I have a spare shutter to learn how this is done. My opinion, a complete disassembled shutter CLA job is necessary if the shutter has been seriously compromised, e.g. a heavily gummed up shutter that had been sprayed with WD-40, a shutter that was exposed to the environment with lots of gunk-up dirt or rust.

For shutters that are in fairly good shape, I was able to restored them successfully with Method-2. These are the shutters I have worked on: "Rim-set" Compur #00, #0 and #1, Synchro-Compur #00 and Pronto-S #0.

Soak the shutter in a clean lighter fluid bath, swirl the solvent around for few minutes and let it soak overnight. If there is any stubborn dirt, use a very soft artist brush and give it a gentle brush. NOTE: Be very careful, aggressive scrubbing could unhook or break some of the very tiny delicate springs in the shutter.

After a night in the solvent, I swirl the solvent for few minutes and discard the dirty solvent. The shutter then goes into a second clean lighter fluid bath. This time I will attempt to fire the shutter when the shutter is wet. The shutter should fire if it is in working order. The solvent acts like a lubricant when the shutter is wet. Leave the shutter soak overnight.

After a second night in the solvent, I alternate swirling the solvent and firing the shutter a few times. Remove the shutter from the bath and rinse the shutter generously with clean lighter fluid.

Then lightly blow dry the shutter and let dry for 24hrs+. NOTE: Do not attempt to fire an unlubricated shutter because it likely will get stuck.

The clean shutter is now ready to be lubricated - to be continued in the next post.

TIPS: Take some close-up pictures of the shutter before cleaning it. Make notes of the positions of the springs - just in case they get un-hooked while cleaning ... I am speaking from experience!

Thanks for visiting. Comments, feedback and questions are welcome.

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