What do you buy the man who has everything? Well almost everything, I still keep looking at Ferraris on eBay.
This was the question Mrs. Connoisseur put to me recently, as my birthday loomed. Knowing the Ferrari was a long shot, I responded with the usual âA nice pair of socks will do thanks my loveâ. Bless her cottons, when on the big day I unwrapped a 1 liter finely hand-crafted used American oak bourbon barrel. Sheâd come up with the perfect gift that I had been unable to envision. This barrel was ripe and ready for aging rum. Game on. The thoughts of taking some poor excuse of a rum and aging it into one of the finest sipping rums known to man, had me dreaming of the consequential fleet of Ferraris, parked neatly in front of my established aging facility, stocked and stacked with barrels floor to ceiling. Just visualize the Far Niente forecourt, with ferraris and coconut palms as far as the eye can see.
As reality set in, I began my research on aging, and after a quick internet search, I did what any self-respecting man would do, ditched the instructions, and winged it. Straight down to the liquor store, I picked up a 1.75 liter of Appleton Estate. Why? Well I believe Appleton to be one of the most true expressions of Rum, no messing about. Just quality rum, aged and bottled. Now donât get me wrong, I am not saying Joy Spence does a bad job, at Appleton quite the opposite. As my old chef Dad told me, if you start out with shit ingredients, you will probably end up with a shit dish. Taking these words, I opted to take Appletonâs quality and improve upon it.
And so the fun began. As it turns out, aging rum canât quite be described as fun. It falls more into the category of watching paint dry. Or waiting for the lottery to deliver. After soaking my new barrel in fresh distilled water for 24 hours, this expanded the dry wood of the barrel, and stopped any leaks. Then I filled her full of Appleton and that was that. Feeling quite pleased with myself that I had managed to master the rum aging process, it was about time I entered into some real research, and poured a nice slug of Eldorado 15yr. I sat back and waited for the magic to start.
As you can probably image, that magic takes time. I suppose thatâs why itâs called ageing. Unlike my attitude toward my own ageing, I was keenly eager to see this project ripen. After two weeks, my first taste test. You would not believe what I found. This deep golden liquid tasted just likeâŚâŚ well, Appleton. Not even a tiny taste adjustment. The only change was the amount in the barrel. At least 10% of the barrel had gone! At first, I thought the 17-year old boy had been tucking in. He ainât no angel, and I donât like sharing, but the Angelsâ Share had taken a bloody big sip out of my barrel.
So, what is the Angelsâ Share you ask? The rum folklore goes, the Angels take their cut from every barrel of distilled spirits. It may be a little, or it may be a lot, depending on the environment, but the Angels will not be ignored. In the simplest of terms, the Angelsâ Share is the amount of distilled spirits lost to evaporation, from the barrel or cask, into the air, as the rum ages. Wood is a porous material, that expands and contracts with the seasons. This same expansion and contraction happens with wooden barrels, as their precious cargo magically matures inside. The amount the Angels take each year varies widely based on barrel size, time, environmental conditions and even the location within the warehouse. Although mine was located in the kitchen, and Iâm not sure if thatâs better or worse.
No blog is complete without a reference to size, and that it does matter. You might assume the larger the barrel, the faster the evaporation rate. In fact, itâs the opposite; the smaller the barrel, the faster the evaporation rate, because thereâs more liquid by volume in touch with the wood. This is in touch with the air, which draws the Angelsâ Share out of the barrel.
And the bit about Location, Location, Location? One year of aging in a warm and humid climate like the Caribbean is completely different than one year in a climate like the Isle of Islay. Scottish distillers are allowed to write off 2% of their production volume each year to the Angelsâ Share. When it comes to Caribbean Rum, their Angelsâ Share may average closer to 10%, and could be as high as 16% in the first year. Itâs thirsty work in Caribbean heaven, apparently. With Caribbean recording average summer highs of around 98°F compared to 66°F in Scotland, the levels of evaporation and aging rate are greatly accelerated. If two exact barrels of liquid were placed in Scotland and the Caribbean at the same time, the barrel in Scotland would have to remain there for around three years to equal just one year in the Caribbean.
And so back to rum aging. There is no clear method to predicting how much the Angels will drink from your barrel, but be warned, if you teenage kids read this, they will have the best excuse for raiding your booze. The little devils.