#quitaraju

Alpamayo at sunset as seen from high camp 5300m. Photographer: Sergiu Jiduc

Alpamayo 5947m was the last mountain we climbed. Without porters and with two heavy packs, Aurel and myself trekked the Santa Cruz Valley from Cashapampa to Llamarocal (800m level difference) - where we stayed for the night, and eventually reached Alpamayo Base Camp situated near Laguna Arhueicocha at 4300m the next day. On September 5, we climbed the Alpamayo moraine and glacier, (1200m level difference) and reached the col between Quitaraju and Alpamayo. We set camp below Alpamayo, at around 5350m. On the September 6, we left the high camp around 06:00 and climbed the French Direct Route, D+/TD, 50-90° inclination, starting at the very bottom of the bergschrund. 7 hours later we reached the summit of Alpamayo 5947m. Fortunately, this time the clouds allowed us to enjoy the surrounding view and take pictures. We abseiled the route, using threads already in place in the ice. Shortly after reaching the camp, a massive serac fell and avalanched our tracks. In one day we descended all the way to Llamarocal from the high camp, and on September 8, we were in Huaraz.

Climbing the French Direct Route on Alpamayo 5947m.Photographer: Sergiu Jiduc

Last pitches of the French Direct Route: Photographer: Aurel Salasan

Alpamayo Summit, and Sergiu: Photographer; Aurel Salasan

Sergiu, rappeling over a bergschrund. Photographer: Aurel Salsan

During this last section we trekked and climbed around 6000m level difference. A rough estimation of the total level difference climbed and trekked by foot during this expedition is around 30,000m. No porters or donkeys were used for these ascents. All climbs were done in pure alpine style. Due to time constraints and sensitivity to the effects of altitude, Sorin Rechitan was unable to accompany us in these ascents

Quitaraju as seen from high camp. Photographer: Sergiu Jiduc