#popoyan

Also called the White City because of its white colonial buildings.

Tierra Dentro  A UNESCO world heritage, Tierra Dentro National Archeological Park was our first full taste of pre-hispanic Colombian Archeology. Arriving in La Plata (plata is the Spanish for money) we found our collectivo and with an hour to spare we bought our tickets. Phil went to get cash and after the first machine not issuing cash embarked on a round trip of all of La Plata´s cash machines. Some were out order, others had large queues lined outside, and where the card worked no money was available. Time was ticking before the bus left. Running back, Phil returned cashless. Ready to go, Lauren was wedged between fellow passengers as the pounding sun fell on the heating vehichle. “Fucking Colombians!” Phil had quickly surmised as we suspected that our only working joint account Norwich and Peterborough bank card had been cloned. A foul mood ensued as we wound up the mountain. Of the many things that worry Phil before heading into unknown waters, having no food and not enough cash are the ones he worries about most. Money talks, especially in an alien country where your language skills are not at blagg level three. So with some trepidation we did some back of the envelope calculations and worked out we could just about stay the night in Tierra Dentro (the name of the area as well as the site of interest) and leave without paying the archeoloical site a visit. In the back of the truck a trio of young Colombians chatted away showing an interest in us. Juan David, Hermán, and Fabian. The natural leader, Juan David was to prove himself as we set out to make Tierra Dentro happen. On arrival we decided to go to the next town where there was apparently a cash machine. No luck, but we were able to change the nifty 20 dead presidents I had hidden. We were saved from a cheese and crackers dinner. Still, it wasn’t enough, and our middle class greed for culture led us to a chance meeting with perhaps the only two other foreign tourists in town: Graham and Kenneth. Returning to Tierra Dentro, also the name of the town, Hermán and Fabian had got chatting to the unlikely English couple in a posh hotel where we had left them.

(from top to bottom¨Juan David, Fabian and Hermàn) Lauren and I had the same thought. Before heading up the road with our kit and our new friends, we introduced ourselves to the couple and told them of our situation. We said we’d be back in town later on. After dropping our stuff off we dressed up and worked on our game plan for asking to borrow some money. Total strangers to each other but sharing a common language we were able to explain our predicament and they kindly lent us thirty pounds (we were secretly hoping for more). Dismissing our suggestion of an online transfer to return the money (I had the feeling that over his glasses, the school teachery, reddy cheeked Graham regarded us with some suspicion), they opted for cheque. That’s the age bracket we’re talking about. So we agree to ask Lauren`s mum to post them a check at his North London address. A hour or so later and spirited by our luck we shared a lovely evening meal. The next day we had a wonderful walk and trip to the four archeological sites with the three amigos and we were even able to buy them some farewell beers before they got on their bus.

The National Archaeological Park of Tierradentro is located in the south-western of Colombia in the Andean's central cordillera. The park is best known for the underground tombs of the pre-Coloumbian Tierradentro culture. The shaft tombs with side chambers were carved in the volcanic tuff below hilltops and mountain ridges. Some of the structures measured up to 12m wide and 7m deep and were made from 600 to 900 AD. Decorated with elaborate geometric, zoomorphic and anthropomorphic murals in red and black paint on a white background, the chambers of the more impressive underground structures were also decorated with elaborate anthropomorphic carvings. These subterranean tombs were rediscovered and excavated between 1930 and 1995. Most tombs had been damaged and looted by grave robbers but the structural integrity is impressive. The day began with a walk that looped up and across a plateau. A steep climb from the very beginning we were accompanied by the hostel owners dog. Juan David proved his leadership skills by taking the lead with me as we left the others huffing and puffing behind.  Along the plateau we enjoyed stunning views and a number of the strange tombs left by a culture of which not much is known.

(as we waited for the bus to Popoyan we were reminded of the recent history of this region)

A lesson was learnt. Perhaps taking for granted our travelwise sense (we had been on the road for over a year) and level of Spanish we had met with many frustrations in our dealings with Colombians who, and fair enough, viewed us solely as tourists. But Kenneth and Graham’s advance, and the proud helping hands, particulalry Juan David who was really concerned to help, told us that the kindness of strangers is always there, its just a question of knowing how to look... and little bit of luck.

Popoyan

Next stop, and a little more solvent (it turned out our card hadn’t been cloned – we had miscalculated our direct debit scheme which meant after a spending spree and being a day before our next self-deposit we had no money in the N&P shared account!) was Popoyan. Known as ´Ciudad Blanca´ for its numerous chalk-white facades this charismatic colonial city in the foothills at the southern end of the Cauca valley, competes with the heavy-hitters like Cartagena, Bogota and Medellin when it comes to food, culture and character. A lively cafe culture supported by the young that attend the city’s many universities – Universidad del Cauca is Colombia´s oldest – we spent time walking around at a leisurely pace taking in the laid-back city and watching an evening of folk dancing from around the country.

We made a day trip to Silvia market for the Tuesday onslaught where folk from wide and far descend the mountain pueblos and villages to get a good bargain. The dusty little town is dominated by the huge central warehouse that acts as stage for the occasion. Alongside the sweet musty smell of discarded fruit and veg, the roving dogs in search of scraps, bewildered animals tied to trucks and the candy-colour spectrum of sweet shops, perhaps the most unique element of the Silivia market was the unmistakable presence of the Guambiano people.

According to the World Directory of Minorities and Indigenous Peoples the Cauca valley is home to 200,000 Paez (Nasa) and Guambiano. The Guambiano language, also known as Wampi-Misamer-wah, is apparently spoken by around 23,000 people. Agriculturists, Guambiano culture is marked by collective work and mutual respect. And running through the market like a colourful seam, traditional dress is still maintained. Men often wear white linen trousers (and all the blokes seemed to wear this one brand of boots) with a skirt of blue or black cloth called a “lusik”. Women wear wool “amacos” and dark blue woollen shawls. Both men and women wear felt hats.

A healthy hustle, and spacy enough not to be overbearing, the hawkers calls, cackles and gaggles were enjoyed as we bought provisions for the week and dug into a tasty, quick lunch. Perhaps the highlight of our stay was our customary trek that took us to Puracé National Park. The name Puracé is Kechwa for ´Fire Mountain´, a linguistic nod to the park´s centrally located conical volcano Nevado Puracé. Sadly the cloudy day obscured our view of the active volcano but we enjoyed the ethereal thermal springs emerging from the volcanic rock. Bubbling pools of sky blue water swept over rocks and hues of argent to dark green moss. The Magdalena, Cauca, Patía, and Japurá rivers originate in this Adean belt, declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1979. We walked along the road that goes through the park to visit a boisterous waterfall. The park is home to the threatened Colombian Pine, Andean Oak, the Wax Plam as well as hundreds of orchids. Amongst the many animals Puracé enjoys the Andean Condor that was reintroduced to the park with the help of the San Diego Zoo in the 1990s.