#pilati

Fast Fashion ist nur eine späte, billige Interpretation von Mode, meint Stefano Pilati

“Ich weiß gar nicht, warum wir das Mode nennen. Es ist ein Service.” Der Ex-YSL und Ex-Zegna-Kreative im Interview mit Eva Kelley für 032c. Bitte lesen Sie dazu auch: Ein guter Freund kann Fast Fashion nicht sein, glaubt Yohji Yamamoto Lucy Siegle über Fast Fashion Bernhard Willhelm über Fast Fashion Jason Wu hat kein Problem mit Faster Fashion Tadashi Yanai will Lifewear anbieten, nicht Fast…

Stefano Pilati arriva da Agnona e stravolge le regole. Non solo, ma il marchio si dota di una nuova boutique nel Quadrilatero milanese, in via Sant’Andrea 11. Il neo-direttore creativo vede per il brand femminile del Gruppo Zegnaun futuro senza tempo e…

Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 14. Stefano Pilati’s first collection post YSL – or Saint Laurent rather – at Zegna, and one that is incredibly impressive. Pilati was sometimes derided by the media during his time at YSL but I for one always enjoyed his designs – one of my first posts on this blog was of an absurdly tasteful yet innovative shawl lapel, towelling blazer from YSL S/S 12. Regardless of whether or not one thinks Slimane’s rock chic design makes for a better Saint Laurent, what is clear is that Pilati has murdered the game at Zegna.

What strikes me most about Pilati’s designs this season is that they exist in that perfect middle ground between wearable and original/interesting. Maybe it’s because, generally speaking, Zegna is usually a rather conservative brand, but, as far as I’m concerned, this has made for a restrained but innovative collection. In particular, I thought printed fabrics – something we see a lot of everywhere now – were used with real elegance in the bomber jacket and shirt seen above. Both reminded me of Prada’s print menswear but in a pleasing, original way (they didn’t feel like replicas).

It is outwear though, where Pilati excelled most of all this season. Obviously S/S collections cannot rely on the weighty coating fabrics of the colder months, meaning that often A/W outerwear is more impressive than its warm weather brethren. Not so this season at Zegna, where cropped jackets and unstructured coats in rich fabrics sat next to bombers and belted safari-style pieces usually placed over slim, understated trousers – a move which demonstrates the above discussed restraint of Pilati’s designs.