#petsinprison

Click, Cookie, or Compliment

When we are training dogs in our prison re-entry programs, we use clickers as a mark to let dogs know when they have performed a cue correctly and when they will be rewarded with a treat. Clickers are small, box-like tools that make a unique short “clicking” sound. Clicker training is not a new or high-tech method of dog training, but it is a very useful technique that allows us to train multiple dogs in the same way and to the same standard.

In general, the pattern we teach is: cue-behavior-click-treat. It’s simple and easy once you get the hang of it.  However, sometimes we need to tell our handlers to treat the dog when they aren’t following any specific cue, and this can be frustrating at first. Even later on, many people think that giving treats without a cue spoils the dog or makes them food dependent.  

Giving a food treat as a reward for a cued behavior reinforces the likelihood that the specific behavior will be repeated in the future.  Giving a food treat without cueing a behavior first classically conditions that current situation.  This would be classical conditioning: giving your dog some feel-good cookies in a new or uncomfortable space. One common use of free feeding treats is in new environments or around loud or fast items like bicycles. If the dog gets a yummy treat every time a bike flies past bikes become pretty cool.  The dog didn’t specifically sit or stay, but merely being in the presence of the scary object can be worthy of a reward.

When is “good dog” enough? Are there times when just letting a dog know she is a “good dog” enough? What if you pair it with a cookie? Your voice carries emotion; this generally means that you can use praise and compliments when want to communicate you think your dog is wonderful, OR when your dog is doing a duration-type behavior as you build up to a food reward. It does not mean it's a great reinforcer in precision or cue training. For example, in loose-leash walking you should definitely talk to your dog and keep her engaged the entire time she is learning; however, you should also feed when in the best position and to encourage continued attention. Walking itself is not a precision behavior to reward--as long as your dog is walking nicely, no specific step deserves a reward more than the next step.

So when should I use a click? When you are teaching an exact behavior, such as sit, which is binary: either a dog is sitting or not sitting. They are either sitting quickly and straight or they are not. No matter what level of “sit” you are training, there is a precise moment when your dog does the right behavior that you need to mark.

When should I use free-feed cookies? When you are trying to build or change an emotional response, as opposed to a specific behavior, free-feeding cookies is useful. “Cookies without fuss” help change your dog’s mind about an event or environment or teach them something should be fun.

What we mean by HIGH RISK Shelters

We pull many of the dogs in our program from high-risk shelters. Others come from shelter and rescue partners who regularly pull dogs from high-risk shelters. This begs the question, what exactly are we referring to when we talk about high-risk shelters?

“High-risk” is not a legal or formal designation for any shelter, rescue, or other animal-related organization. We use this term to describe places that must euthanize due to constraints on the amount of space they have to house stray and surrendered animals. Any animal in one of these facilities is at higher risk of being euthanized, not as a result of the behavior or breed of the dog, but due to a limitation of space. Hence the colloquial term “high-risk.”  

For example, if a shelter has 45 kennels or runs to house dogs and a 46th dog is surrendered or brought in by animal control, a tough choice needs to be made. If the dog is brought in as a stray, are law protects it for a few days to give the rightful owner a chance to claim the dog. This means that if 15 of 45 dogs are on a stray-hold, the other 30 dogs are at a higher risk when space becomes a concern.  

There are very few “no-kill” shelters in the US, and they are generally referred to as sanctuaries. When a shelter or rescue uses the term “no kill,” they mean less then 10% of all animals that enter the facility are euthanized. These locations try not to euthanize for space, but they will turn dogs away when the shelter is full. This provides some protection so the dogs in their care have the best chance of being adopted. So where do these dogs that get turned away go? They often end up in “open intake” (high risk) shelters, which, by law, cannot turn animals away. They do not, however, have unlimited space or resources.

We need to have open-intake shelters.  We need somewhere for found and unwanted pets to go. We also need to help these shelters and the dogs placed in these situations.

That's where New Leash on Life- USA and small rescues step up and help the dogs and the community. We pull dogs from these high-risk shelters so kennels can be opened up for new dogs entering the system. This reduces the need to euthanize healthy, adoptable dogs. We also pull dogs from other local shelters and rescues who in turn take dogs from higher risk situations into their lower-risk facilities where the dogs have a much better chance of a live release- either permanent adoption or transfer into another organization.

We select our dogs based on a temperament test combined with the dog’s history (if known) and information garnered from shelter staff and volunteers.  We recognize that when we test dogs for our program we are doing so at probably the most stressful point in their lives. Often, volunteers and staff can give us more insight into an animal’s regular behavior then any test can, but we still need to test them. We know there will be other times in their life when they will be stressed, so gauging their reaction under stress gives us useful data points. Once we select our dogs, we are committed to them for the rest of their lives- they will never go back into a shelter. This means our dogs are safe from the risk of euthanasia, and they won’t put other dogs at risk by taking up a kennel or run.

What’s in a name?

As we gear up for our next class at Philadelphia Department of Prisons, we are busy selecting dogs from various local shelters and organizations that need a second chance. Each dog we assess has a name designated by the shelter, and we can assume most dogs had some sort of name in their previous home. When we rescue them, we give our dogs a new name in line with the theme we choose for that cohort. (Later this month we will reveal the newest class at PDP, and you will have a chance to see the dogs we’ve selected and learn their new names. Stay tuned and be sure to check our social media pages!) 

One of the first questions our inmate handlers and future adopters ask us is: is it ok to change the dog’s name? While we try to pick cute and memorable names, we know most of our dogs will have yet another name change in the future.  Many people wonder: is it ok for a dog to have 4, 5, or even more names in their lifetime? 

Dogs do not self identify with the names we choose. They don’t even use verbal monikers for each other, unlike other species that have been observed calling each other by unique sounds. A dog’s name is simply what we, as humans with extensive verbal capabilities, use to refer to them and to get their attention.  On top of that, most people use multiple nicknames or call names for a dog throughout its life. It’s certainly not uncommon to hear people using words like “puppy” or “pup pup,” or shortened versions of their names like “Bud” for “Buddy.” 

Dogs do not have an issue responding to these nicknames when used regularly and in a similar tone.  (Actually, one study out of Europe determined a dog may be able to understand what we’re saying far more often and readily then we previously thought, so even tone may not be as big a clue as we suspected.)

Changing a dog’s name is actually very easy.  Any name you choose, when directed at your dog, is essentially a cue for attention. You can teach the name as a cue as easily as any other cue- simply say their name and pop a tasty treat in their mouth several times a day and continue to use their name as you usually would. Very quickly your dog will learn to look to you at the sound of that word since it may mean food is coming or it may mean you are about to cue them to do something else.  Either way, the name will gain salience and importance over time.

A few things to keep in mind when renaming a dog:

 First of all, try to avoid names that sound like, or rhyme with, common cues or common use words- especially “no.” It often takes a little more time for the dog to figure out these names, such as “Mit” or “Bo,” and some rescues have previous negative experiences with those sounds.

Also be cautious of choosing very long or difficult-to-pronounce names unless you plan to use a nickname. This is what I do with one my dogs. Her full name is only used in competition, and it means I really need her focus. Day to day, I use a nickname.

Secondly, be aware it may take a few days for your dog to start responding to the new name, so be careful using it to call from a distance.  Like any other cue, if you overuse it without real meaning or reinforcement it will lose its power and be ignored in the future.  I’m sure you’ve heard people calling to dogs and being ignored to the point where they’re forced to physically go get their dog. This is because the dog has learned the name being yelled doesn’t really mean anything so they ignore it.

 Lastly, don’t use your newly chosen name in association with anything negative.  If their name always leads to being crated or a bath, they will quickly associate it with unpleasantness, and it may become a cue to run. Until the new name sticks, be sure it’s always used positively. Ideally, follow up their positive response with a treat or tummy rub to really get your point across. 

Introducing your new dog to your cat 

All of our summer graduates left prison last week and are now in a new home, developing new relationships and learning new routines.  Often, our dogs go to adoptive homes with resident pets, so we require every person--and dog--in the home to meet with our dog on neutral territory, but what about resident cats?  

Cats do not generally like leaving their homes or meeting new pets, and it’s actually in their best interest not to meet new animals face to face quickly.  Cats respond differently than dogs, so we’ve created a few simple suggestions that can help make the integration easier.

Step 1: Expectations

Cats are dissimilar to dogs in their social habits and relationships; most cats do not readily accept new animals or environments.  While your dog will likely want to approach your cat quickly, the cat would prefer to first observe at a distance and slowly get used to the idea of having a dog. If your cat is not dog savvy and has not lived with dogs, they will likely be weary and distant.  If the cat spends a lot of time hiding or retreating to a high perch, set aside individual time with your cat each day.

Step 2: Home Prep

Before your dog comes home, be sure that you have established safe zones for your cat. Cats move much more vertically than people or dogs, so high escape routes are a good idea and will impact your living space the least. Your cat’s eating area should be easily accessible for the cat, but blocked off from your dog. Often, an area on a shelf or counter often works well. Litter boxes should also be in a safe space. You may want to use a baby gate to section off a room or space for your cat’s privacy. Keep in mind cats often won’t eliminate where they eat so keep the box away from food bowls.

Step 3: Introduction (having a friend or partner is especially helpful in this step)

You finally have your new dog and you are ready to bring them into your home! First, try to ensure your dog is a little tired so that the indoor activity is a bit subdued.  Then, armed with high-value dog or cat treats, bring your dog into a baby-gated room or blocked off area.  If your dog is particularly rambunctious, it may be helpful to restrain him by leasing them to their side of the gate for this first encounter.

If your cat is fairly outgoing, you can try coaxing her toward the gate to investigate.  You want to reward both the cat and dog for remaining calm once they can see each other.  Keep this first intro short and sweet! Over the course of several days you can repeat this pattern, if both animals are amenable. Walk your dog out of the room on a leash if the cat is going to have free reign of the house. This will help prevent chasing. 

If your cat is timid or simply not willing to come toward the dog, you can leave the gate up and give your dog a yummy chew and hope that over the course of a couple of days the cat gets brave enough to explore.  Do not force your cat into the dog’s presence- this will not help foster positive relations.   

Step 4: Acclimation

Once your dog and cat both seem calm and comfortable, you can start allowing them to engage without a gate or barrier.  A well-exercised dog and a leash will be very helpful at this point.  After a long walk or solid play session, you can try having your dog hangout with you on leash. Always praise and reward good behavior in the presence of the other pet!  Once they seem tolerant or comfortable, you can remove the leash.  Never leave your pets unsupervised together until you are very sure they are getting along!

Pro tips:

1.     Make sure each animal has his or her own time and zone for meals.  Fighting over food or bullying can be common and is easily preventable with separate meal times and places.

2.     Nighttime interactions should be limited. If your cat is used to sleeping in your bed you should continue that routine and have your dog sleep elsewhere. When animals get spooked in their sleep they can over react and cause accidental damage.

3.     Slower is better.  If it takes a few months for your animals to coexist that's a much better prospect than rushing it and potentially having an injury.

Bonding Step One

We have seven dogs graduating from our Philly Prison Program later this week! We are incredibly proud of our handlers and excited our dogs will soon be in their forever homes! Our dogs come from shelter situations, and we bring them into the prison where they live for three months with their handlers around the clock. Three months is just enough time for the dogs to settle in and get acclimated to prison before being moved again- this time for the last time. Bringing home a new dog is thrilling, but it also comes with a lot of questions and adjustments for the new family and for the dog.  

Today I want to focus on the human side of making that transition into a new home easier. In a future post I will touch on how to introduce resident animals to your new pet.

The most important thing to keep in mind when bringing in an older puppy or adult dog, is that the dog may not reciprocate your feelings immediately. Just because you signed a contract and know the dog is yours, the dog isn’t going to understand you belong to him yet. It can be very difficult to resist hugging your new dog and showering him or her with love- you’ve been planning this homecoming for weeks after all! However, your new dog doesn’t understand any of that and being overly affectionate can cause stress and defensiveness. To your new dog, this can actually be a very scary and confusing time.

It will take a few weeks before your dog really settles in as part of the family. It’s important to keep the first few weeks as calm as possible and set a routine for your dog. Think of this as a prolonged interview. Your dog is getting to know you and the new expectations and rhythm of your home, and you are getting to know your dog’s personality and preferences. Much like an interview, some dogs present their best qualities first. In fact, some professionals even call the first month the “honeymoon” phase of the adoption.

When dogs don’t feel relaxed and comfortable, they may not feel safe enough to chew or dig- which is why they haven’t yet demonstrating these behaviors. Don’t allow this good behavior to rush the relationship-building phase. You may be tempted to leave them unsupervised for extended periods of time, but that could result in poor behavior you fail to catch and correct as it develops. Give your new dog space and time to settle in, and be sure to be vigilant and supervise them when you are home.  

You want to be sure your dog has time to observe the hustle and bustle of your home without being thrown into the thick of things. Having a puppy-proof safe space is the best way to ensure your dog can’t get into any trouble but still has a safe place to retreat. This is where baby gates and crates are helpful. Gates allow the dogs to be present but safely separated. I suggest giving your dog a chew or puzzle toy so they have something to occupy them in this personal space if they get bored.

While you may feel the urge to hug and love on your dog immediately, be sure you have your dog’s enthusiastic consent first. A non-consensual hug is really a restraint and most dogs do not like feeling trapped. You can certainly lavish your dog with affection, but be sure you’ve been invited to approach. Provide a way for your dog to exit easily in case he or she feels overwhelmed.  

You can begin the process of affection by making fun kissy sounds or tapping your legs while calling your dog over. Rub, pet and interact with your dog when he or she approaches you. You will know they like it if they lean in and stick close. Kisses or any face-to-face action should wait until your dog has had time to settle in comfortably. Be careful when you raise your chin and kiss towards your dog. They may reward you with a lick, but they could also respond with reservation. Never hold their head or stare directly into their eyes until you have built trust, since this can feel threatening to some dogs.

Lastly, keep in mind that building a relationship with a new dog is a process. You want to look at the overall trend in behavior not just one or two points of data. One or two good moments does not an ideal relationship make, nor should your new dog be trusted like an old friend after one good afternoon together. Look for multiple examples of good behavior before increasing freedom.

We let people know our adopted dogs come from uncertain backgrounds and have only recently learned to trust people again. The dogs are still somewhat fragile, so we tell their adopted families to treat them with care as they learn to love and trust, and as they build on the foundation set by our incredible handlers.