#personalpj

Randomly made 3 spring outers

I just have made 3 outers for this spring. I wanted to try both trendy oversized tops and versatile fitted jackets and could not choose one design, so I have sewn all 3 ideas I had.

The first one is an oversized blouson. 

The pattern is Vlisco's bomber jacket (Vlisco is a fabric supplier. I checked the webpage and it looks the pattern has gone, unfortunately.) I basically followed the original pattern, but adjusted the detail like the pocket, cuff and waist belt. I attached self-fabric ribbing for a decorative reason and I like this 80's-ish look. These are sewn with 3 rows of casing like waist belts of pyjama pants or gather skirts.

The fabric is light-weight drapery twill (maybe viscose?). I think the collar does not fit perfectly, but I like overall this street style inspired look and colour combo of khaki x black.

The second one is a denim jacket (or should I call it an overshirt?)  The pattern is self-drafted inspired by vintage men's denim jackets.

I researched classic denim jackets first and applied some features to this jacket like chest pockets, center pleats or yokes. One of my current sewing challenges is “beautiful finish without lining". so, most of the seams are finished by flat-felled seam and partly french-seam or bounded by bias tape. The fabric is light-mid weight coated denim with stretch. It is basically easy to handle but ironing was difficult because of the coating. (it was sticky with heat, too!) So my wooden clapper was a great help.

Because of those seams, it takes a lot of times and effort to finish this project. (I found lined garments are easier to make.) But I really like the result and I think I learned a lot from the project! I want to make one more with another colour or with corduroy for fall-winter. Btw, I could not take better photos of it because of the dark colour and the texture.

The third one is a relaxing and easy hoodie.

I wanted to make a retro sporty hoodie with oversized form. I added rooms to a very basic raglan sleeve hoodie. The fullness is shaped at the cuffs or the hem and shapes cocoon-ish volume.

The fabric is mid-weight knit and I added the stripes on the sleeves and hood stitching the tape. It's really relaxing hoodie and I already enjoy wearing it everyday!

Those are all personal projects, but I’m considering to incorporate some ideas or detail from those in the future pattern release.

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Experimented new to me material Scuba knit with decorative stitches

I noticed there are many kind of scuba knit in fabric stores in recent seasons and also many items in scuba knit at high street brands or apparel trade shows.

I like the characters of the material like the body which make sculptured effect and no-fray easy finish. I really want to make some sporty jacket or biker jacket with it. (Btw, there are article about scuba knit on Thread magazine. and the dress pattern is my Snowball.) 

But before making jackets, I decided to play this characteristic spongy texture. and just thought a casual idea making decorative stitches with this. So, here is some my experimental samples.

--FABRIC I used very basic black one. Although there are various scuba fabric in the market, I like textured one (looks high-tech and sporty) or printed one. Mine is mid weight and double face with different colours. The another side is gray melange.

--DECORATIVE STITCHES Here are some first tests. I tried this Sashiko embroidery patterns by machine stitching. And pin tacking (under right sample). I basically like the result. Since the fabric is spongy, the 3D textures work effectively.

--THREAD and NEEDLE I basically used normal machine thread(Günterman No100). I wanted to use heavier threads like for topstitching, but unfortunately thicker needles don’t work on my scuba knit. I’m not sure it’s generally for all scuba or just for my fabric. My resolution for this is using double thread on 1 needle. The neon yellow sample sewed by this way. (Maybe embroidery needles work better??) Also I recommend to use jersey needle. There were often skipping stitches with universal needles. I used jersey needle no 80-90 (11-14). I made bags from these pieces.

--IRONING Ironing this fabric is bit tricky. We cannot use high degree heat depending on the material. Since this is spongy, it’s difficult to make creases, but I found it is easier to iron opening seams by hand or other equipment. 

--OTHERS we cannot use pins to fix layers. I used clips, tape or fabric glue depending the seam. It takes a lot of time for ripping of wrong stitches. Because all the stitches was sunk in the fabric and very difficult to pic the thread.

I finally made 3 bags from the stitch samples. Since scuba is very strong and stable, It’s very good for utility items. I want to use the same effect on my next projects for jacket or coat. Btw, I really like Sashiko patterns which I used to decoration stitches. I’m really grateful to ancient people in my mother country for creating such fantastic patterns. It’s really a rich cultural heritage.

--One more bag for bonus This is not from scuba knit. But I feel this fabric is kind of “family”. The material is called “soft shell”. The right side looks very similar to scuba and it’s waterproof, the other side is fleece for keeping you warm, less spongy and less stretchy. It’s also perfect for winter jacket and I really want to try it. Just I hope it has more colour variations.

Now I’m planning about the jacket patterns for scuba and soft shell. I hope I can share that project soon.

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my selfish sewing project Knit shirts with striped knit for me

Just finished my selfish quick sewing projects. I got nice linen knit fabric at a local organic fabric shop. It has nice soft texture and I thought it’s perfect for summer tops.

One is this back open type which is very breezy and comfy.

I wanted to try this design for a while and finally drafted the pattern by myself based on basic knit pattern.

This one is already my favourite and I wear often with denim.

I wanted to one more for very basic type knit top for versatile coordinate, but wanted try some new detail. so I add shoulder open as a design accent.

Btw, how do you call this horizontal stripe pattern? In Japan, we call horizontal type “border” and vertical type “stripe”. I thought it is the same as the English. But I found there are no meaning “horizontal stripe” with “border” in dictionaries. Also, in Dutch (which I learn just now) both are called “strepen”.

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My selfish sewing project Field Jacket from Japanese sewing book

Just sewed up my 2nd jacket from my favourite Japanese sewing book “military wears’ book”. (ミリタリーウェアの本) . (1st one is here) . 1st one was very heavy winter jacket with padding, but this is a light weight for spring-summer weather.

Although I already have (made) multiple utility jackets including my pattern “Tosti” or Minoru from Sewaholic, I just love to try new patterns and to sew those functional details. And I’m wearing this kind of jacket so often like everyday, I want them with all colours!

The book shows 6 jackets patterns inspired by real military wears. My version is this M-65 type field jacket (the right on above). Like other designs, it features many functional details like pockets with gusset, a hood in collar, tabs, or action pleats on the back shoulder. 

I basically kept the original design, but adjusted the size smaller the same as my 1st jacket and add the length about + 4cm. Since the patterns in this book are designed for both men and women, adjusting the size was bit difficult for me. I have to say my size adjustment was ok but not perfect especially on the chest area.

Also, I changed some small details like pockets and the place of the waist string and skip the snap buttons or tabs on collar for simplifying the look. 

The shell material is light weight twill with olive colour. Luckily it was very easy to handle, easy to tame by ironing. I chose plastic zippers for less weight and to make a bold sporty look. For the lining, I could not find perfect plaid fabric this time, so I used polka dot instead.

I’m still thinking to add another elements like cute zipper tabs as colour accents. Because it looks a bit heavy as a spring item. Although it is not bad as a very basic versatile item as it is.

For this kind of jacket, we have to prepare many parts and it takes time to sew many functional elements. But I really enjoyed the sewing steps and learn a lot about the constructions of the functional parts. 

As I love this kind of utility look so much, I’m searching the next jacket sewing pattern to make with other colours (brick or mustard?). I like to draft pattern by myself, but love to try other people’s patterns, too.

Btw, I hope there will be English version of this book like other popular Japanese sewing books like “Pattern magic”series or “Drape Drape”. so more people including men who sew can enjoy it.

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My selfish sewing project Flight Jacket from Japanese sewing book

Just sewed up my Flight jacket with padding. It’s very warm and features many functional parts like a 3D pocket or gathered sleeves. The pattern is from Japanese sewing book “military wears’ book”. (ミリタリーウェアの本) (Thanks mom for sending me this fantastic book!)

The book features 6 cool jackets patterns inspired by real military wears. All the models are constructed from many functional parts and seem to take a lot of processes to sew. I choose this N3-B type flight jacket (the right on above). Because this model has many elements for very cold weather like padding, cuffs with inside rib knit, which I wanted to make.

Before the start, it looked quite challenging for me but actually, all the steps are enjoyable and I could learn a lot of new.

Basically, I followed the original design except for details like pockets or buttons. The biggest change is the size as always. This pattern is sized for both men and ladies and the smallest one is still big for me, so I shortened the width about to 95%.

If you sewed some jackets already (and can read Japanese), basically no special technic required for these. But the padding process was a little bit tough for me. I think I need a walking foot next time. I used 2 types of pad material, one is about 10mm thickness for the bodice parts, and about 3mm for the thinner parts like plackets or tabs.

The shell material is cotton mix twill. I like the colour and windproof-ness, but it is too hard to make gather on sleeves, and it shows holes of pins and needles so I could not use pins.

It took longer time than my general sewing projects, but I really enjoyed all the steps and love this achievement! Even it is pity it’s already end of February and I almost missed opportunities to wear it in this winter. I surely will try other patterns from this book.

Btw, I know many people who cannot read Japanese have this book (maybe as a sewing porn?). Since this book looks very popular, I hope there will be English version like other popular Japanese sewing books like “Pattern magic”series or “Drape Drape”.

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Slim tapered pants with pocket options sewed up. - my selfish sewing project

I was wanting some slim pants with mens-like style long time as an alternative to skinny pants and making several samples in the past months. Here is the result.

I like skinny pants, it is very versatile to coordinate. But this time I wanted to make more unisex style, so the base of this pattern is slim + tapered, not too skinny tight to intend making straight (not curvy) silhouette. Leg darts on the front and Back make tapered lines. and it’s very comfy mid-rise. 

This light khaki green sample has fake flap pockets on the sides. (they are actual pockets, but the flaps do not cover the open). I think flaps also work as a camouflage chubby tummy, btw. I added a thigh pocket like cargo pants.

The fabric is cotton twill with elastane, so it’s very comfy to wear.

This 2nd sample has patch pocket with zipper, it’s very easy to sew. The fabric is stretch coloured denim.

The last sample was made by indigo denim with stretch. I put thigh pockets for more unique look.

I’m basically very satisfied with the silhouette. It’s very versatile so I already wear a lot. I want to make one more with dark red denim, so just searching the perfect fabric now.

I’m planning and preparing to release the pattern. I hope it will be soon.

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Just sewed up my new loose fit plaid shirt! I wanted wear an oversized boyish style shirt with some twists for spring season. So, I drafted this drop shoulder shirt. It has a detachable hood like boys flannel shirt. 

And I tried interlining as you can see in the first photo. It’s actually over quality for plain cotton shirt like this, but I needed to add some body to the fabric for making more mens-like shape and also wanted to try something new technique.

The fabric is plain cotton and it’s very easy to sew! I’m not really confident of working complicated details like sleeve cuffs, but the cotton makes it easier than I expexted.

This is very basic and useful item so I’m planing to make one more.

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Just sewed up my new shirt dress! I saw many girls are wearing shirt dress like this and wanted to sew one with functional derails on relax shape. So I drafted the pattern based on a regular shirt.

It is basically very standard regular shirt with lengthen, but I added 4 pockets of 2 designs, patch/flap pocket for on the chest and double welt type with button loop. It is fun to combine details like a contrast fabric or tab.

And I tried hemming with facing. I also see this detail often in apparel trade shows. Making this finish is new to me but actually not difficult to sew and I like how it looks. The wrong side turned beautiful.

The fabric is mixed cotton chambray with sightly stretch (Very easy to sew!).

The light green plaid one is wearable muslin for this pattern.

It’s still too cold here to wear this, so can’t wait to wear this outside.

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