#machine stitcn

A whipstitch sewing machine creates a looping stitch that wraps around the fabric’s edge to prevent fraying and join materials, often used in garments, leatherwork, and shoes. It works by having the needle pierce near the fabric edge, where a looper underneath catches the thread and forms a loop.

Alright, I’ve got my machine warmed up, stabilizer ready, and hoop in hand. Let’s walk through how to do a fill stitch (also called a tatami stitch or celtic stitch) — perfect for filling in shapes with solid texture and color.

🪡 Step 1: Set Up the Hoop and Fabric

I start by picking a good-quality stabilizer — usually cut-away if I’m working with stretch fabric or tear-away for woven. I hoop the fabric nice and tight. No slack. Think "drum tight" when you tap it.

🧵 Step 2: Choose the Fill Stitch Design in the Machine

Most modern embroidery machines have built-in fill stitch patterns or options within your software. I scroll through the stitch settings or import my design file (DST, PES, etc.).

👉 I make sure the design area that uses fill stitch is digitized properly — no overlapping lines or extra density. That’ll jam up the needle later.

🎛 Step 3: Adjust the Stitch Settings (Optional)

I tweak the fill stitch settings if needed:

Density: Default is about 0.4mm, but I loosen it up to 0.5–0.6mm for lighter coverage.

Angle: Changing the direction (e.g., 45°, 90°) gives dimension and helps avoid puckering.

Underlay: I enable edge-walk and zigzag underlay to stabilize big fill areas.

🧷 Step 4: Thread the Machine

Time to thread up! I load my top thread (polyester for shine or rayon for a softer look) and match it with a bobbin thread. Tension should be balanced. I always do a quick test on a scrap piece to check.

🧵 Step 5: Start the Stitching

Once I hit “Start,” the machine lays down the underlay first — those hidden support stitches. Then the fill begins! You’ll see rows of even back-and-forth lines. It’s so satisfying watching it fill in like painting with thread.

💡 Tip: I don’t walk away! I keep an eye out in case of thread breaks or loops. If the area is huge, I slow down the speed a bit to avoid bunching.

✂️ Step 6: Finishing Up

Once the machine stops, I trim the jump threads (the little thread trails between sections). I unhoop carefully — don’t stretch the fabric — and tear away or trim the stabilizer on the back.

🧽 Optional Cleanup

If I used water-soluble stabilizer on top (for textured fabrics like towels), I gently dab it with water or rinse it out. Voilà — the design looks clean and professional.

🧵 When Do I Use Fill Stitch?

To fill large areas with color

For bold lettering

To add shading with varying densities

Vintage models are pure mechanical craftsmanship — no electronics, just gears, cams, and levers. They were built to last a lifetime, and many still run perfectly today with just a little maintenance.

💎 Common Features:

Cast iron or steel frames

Manual hand-cranks or treadles

Durable gears and mechanics

Often produce very fine chain stitching

Some had embroidery attachments or could be adapted for hemming and decorative borders

🕰️ Popular Vintage Chain Stitch Machine Brands

BrandNotable ModelsOriginNotesSinger24-50, 114w103USASinger 24 series was often used for embroideryWillcox & GibbsChain StitchUSAIconic curved design, famous for industrial and domestic useUnion Special39500 seriesUSAIndustrial chain stitchers, used in denim productionCornelyA, B, EFranceEmbroidery-specific, popular in haute coutureNationalModel 2USAKnown for their hand-crank chain stitch machines

🧷 What Can You Use Them For Today?

Decorative stitching

Quilting (raw edge appliqué)

Sewing knit fabrics

Basting (because chain stitch is easy to remove)

Embroidery and monogramming (on specific models like Cornely or Singer 114w103)

🧼 Maintenance Tips

Oil regularly – vintage machines need oil in all moving parts.

Use the correct needle – often proprietary or special long needles.

Threading matters – always double-check diagrams/manuals; many are counterintuitive.

Test on scrap first – stitch tension on chain stitchers can be finicky.

📦 Where to Find Them

eBay & Etsy: Good for rare finds but check condition carefully.

Estate sales & auctions: You might score a hidden gem for cheap.

Sewing machine repair shops: Some still keep refurbished vintage models.

Facebook Marketplace or local groups for vintage/antique tools.

🔍 Quick Pros & Cons

✅ Pros:

Unique stitch quality and stretch

Beautiful vintage aesthetics

Collectible and often increase in value

Great for certain types of embroidery and garment work

❌ Cons:

Limited stitch types (no zigzag)

Some use rare parts (needles, shuttles)

No reverse stitching

Might need restoration or tuning

💭 Final Thought

Flatlock and overlock stitches both serve different purposes, but each shines in its own way. I personally love the flatlock stitch when I’m working on activewear or anything tight-fitting—it lays flat, feels smooth on the skin, and adds a nice decorative touch.

If you’ve been sewing for a while or are just starting out, you might have come across the term Triple Straight Stitch and wondered what it is—and why you’d want to use it.

Check your machine settings: Look for the triple stitch or triple straight stitch option on your sewing machine. It might be labeled as “Triple Stitch,” “Stretch Stitch,” or “Reinforced Straight Stitch.”

Select the stitch: Use the stitch selector dial or digital menu to choose the triple straight stitch. If your machine doesn’t have a dedicated triple stitch, you can manually sew over the same seam three times.

Set the stitch length: Choose a stitch length between 2.0 to 3.0 mm—medium length works well to keep the stitch strong but not too dense.

Prepare your fabric: Place your fabric under the presser foot as you would for a normal straight stitch, aligning the edge or seam where you want to sew.

Start sewing: Slowly sew along your seam line. The machine will automatically sew three stitches in the same spot before moving forward.

Finish and secure: At the end of your seam, backstitch or tie off to secure the thread, just like with a regular stitch.

A flat-lock stitch is a stretchy, decorative seam often used on activewear. It lies completely flat, with a ladder-like look on one side and loops on the other. To do it, you’ll need a serger or coverstitch machine set to flat-lock mode. Thread only the loopers (no needle thread), and set the tension low on the needle and medium on the loopers. Align your fabric with wrong sides together for a decorative outside seam, stitch slowly, and then gently pull the layers apart. Finally, press the seam flat with steam to reveal that clean, professional finish.

A saddle stitch machine is used to bind booklets, brochures, and magazines by stapling through the center fold of folded sheets—called the "saddle." It's commonly used in print shops and publishing for quick, clean binding. These machines can be manual, semi-automatic, or fully automatic, with some also trimming the edges for a polished look. They’re ideal for high-speed production of thin, multi-page documents.

A double overlock stitch on a sewing machine is a combo stitch that seams and finishes fabric edges in one pass, ideal for knits and stretch fabrics. It mimics a serger, using a straight stitch with a zigzag or looping pattern to prevent fraying and maintain stretch.

Quick Guide:

Use: Seaming + edge finishing

Best For: T-shirts, knits, stretchy fabric

Need: Overcasting foot + machine with overlock stitches

Stitch Icon: Looks like straight + zigzag

Tip: Use a stretch needle and test on scrap