#lizclark

Liz Clark on How Surfing Helps Balance Her Life as an Eco-Warrior

It feels as if I need surfing – or at least time in the ocean – as much as I need food and water. My love for surfing influenced the college I chose, the destinations I sailed, the partner I married, the place I’ve decided to grow roots. Although I can go without it longer than during my early surfing years, surfing still has its silent but significant spell on me. It naturally follows that this great love makes me want to give something to the ocean in return.  

In 2019, I sat in the lineup with some friends, chatting between sets about various environmental issues in the community. Soon after, A Ti’a Matairea Island Protectors was born– a non-profit organization for environmental protection, animal welfare, and youth empowerment in French Polynesia. Our goal was to be a voice for nature and animals, and empower the next generation of kids to do the same. At the timeI had no idea how much time, energy, perseverance, and patience running a nonprofit would demand.  

We launched a project to create anchorage zones to help yachts avoid damaging corals with their anchors, and set out to reverse overfishing by getting to know the needs of our island's fisherpeople and helping them create new fishing restrictions and marine protected areas. We lobbied the government for financially accessible spay and neuter programs for cats and dogs, managed to modify a critical law, and received the first ever funding in FP for spay and neuter. We started a program that takes underserved youth on excursions in the forest and the ocean to study local biodiversity. Then there's applying for grants, talking in schools, attending meetings, and hosting beach clean-ups. 

The more we do, the more we see what else needs to be done, and there are never enough hands for all of it. It’s as exhausting as solo sailing. Thankfully, when the whitewater mounts on the outer reef, the call is still irresistible. Surfing is my self-care, my precious refuge, my attempt at staying in balance. It’s where I go to be recharged and re-inspired. The ocean always reminds me why I work so hard at things I’m not even paid to do. Showing up for the good fight, requires showing up for myself. And surfing always gives me what I need to be able to keep on giving.

By Liz Clark

Behind the Sails with Capt. Liz Clark

As a part of #Shades4Seas we connected with Zeal Ambassador, Liz Clark, to chat about surfing, sustainability and some of her most impactful memories while spending time in and around the ocean. 

“To me, the sea is more she than he, with her frequent mood swings, exquisite curves, ability to make you stare, and obvious sensitivity to the moon. Our relationship goes beyond romance. She’s always there—providing play, companionship, perspective, nourishment, and emotional relief with her liquid embrace. There are times I can’t understand her, but I can’t always understand myself either. It’s okay. Loving her gives me so much more than fearing her.”  From Chapter 5, Wind in My Hair, Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening by Liz Clark

Can you tell us a little bit how and when your interest in ocean and surfing started?

I was lucky to grow up with parents who love the ocean, and was out sailing on our family sailboat even when I was in diapers. Surfing came later, in my teens I had a girlfriend who introduced me to surfing and there was no looking back after my first ride!

Can you tell us about one of your most impactful or favorite memories from an ocean related adventure or surf session?

One time I was anchored off a remote atoll in the Pacific to surf the beautiful reef break there, and during the night a humpback whale gently rubbed his back against Swell's keel, as if using it for a backscratcher. We could hear it come up for big loud breaths in between scratches, it was amazing and humbling all at once!

Have you noticed a change in the ocean and its surrounding environments in your lifetime? If so, what do those changes look like?

Yes. Almost everywhere I go there is more plastic debris, fewer fish, less live coral, and the seas are warming which is causing all kinds of stress to ocean ecosystems.

Do you have any tips for the Zeal family on how to be more eco-conscious when it comes to ocean related activities?

Swell: A Surfer's Voyage With Liz Clark

Embarking on a life of freedom and exploration that most only dream about, Liz Clark set sail for the South Pacific as captain of her 40-foot sailboat, Swell.

More than 12 years and 20,000 miles later, she’s still out there. Sharing tales of wind, waves and the learnings that lie beyond the horizon. Her new book, Swell - A Sailing Surfer's Voyage of Awakening, tells the story of Liz’s voyage in her own honest and open-hearted words.

For our most recent industry night, we hosted an evening of stories with Liz Clark at our HQ in Boulder. Catch the highlights from an incredibly inspirational night, live on our YouTube channel.