Alexander McQueen Menswear SS16
“It was about the idea of being at sea and having sense of belonging there, of identifying yourself through the sea” - Sarah Burton
McQueen’s this season’s theme was ‘The Sea’, which was inspired by Shakespeare’s The Tempest, and Coleridge’s Rime of the Ancient Mariner. Models came out with wet, tangled hair as if fresh from the tide. They reminded of adventurous sailors who are exploring the sea, and solitude, with tattoos all over their bodies as a symbol of their identity. Gulls calls and the lulling lapping sounds of waves were played mixed with the music.
Burton saw the sea as which acts as a powerful opposite to the land, and is a place where men can make themselves new. The collection has homed in on the image of sailors and wrestlers in order to create a strong sense of the naval adventure.
Trousers were cropped at the ankle, and shorts were triple pleated to give extra volume. As for outwears, there were oversized trench coats and bomber jackets. Plus, single or double breasted suit jackets, and pea coats, which were used as British navy’s coat back in the days. They had cropped sleeves to show shirts’ tattooed-cuffs. Knitwear had nautical stripes or asymmetric ruffles. Some of the trousers and jackets had oversized patch pockets. Buttons were used as a design feature through out the whole collection. Large sail eyelets were also spotted across a pea coat or belts.
Cotton canvas, cotton gabardine, poplin, terry cloth, and salt-washed denims were used as fabrics. Especially, denims were made to look aged with an all-over mended stitching. Tattoo motifs such as anchors and mermaids were painted on the fabric or embroided across chest, cuffs, and collars. You could also find medal embroidery on suit jackets and coats’ chest. Colors of the sea were used overall - white, blue, black, and navy.
For full video of the collection,
http://live.alexandermcqueen.com
