#kovalum

October 2010. Two weeks in the state of Kerala. Best way to describe India for me is contrast. Often from the start to the finish of the day you would question whether you were in the same country, let alone same state. get.there.now.

KOCHI 

Kerala is served by two international airports – in Kochi (Cochin) and Thiruvanathapuram (Trivandrum). Enter by one and leave by the other.  The internal flights surprised me to the major cities with predominantly large, new planes. We used Kingfisher and Jet Airways which would put some Australian airlines to shame.

TIP: Although India does have a few vineyards like Sula establishing themselves (with clear Australian intuition setting them up), the wine is relatively expensive and mediocre at this stage at best. Ensure you pack a couple of bottles for that special occasion or when the Kingfisher Lager monopoly becomes too much for an evening.

STAY: Green Lagoon (now Vaamiika Island) One of the greatest places I have and ever will experience. Splurge here. At the time there was a ridiculous difference to the low (October is the cusp) and the high so take advantage if you can. It is literally a tiny, private island on the Kerala back waters with 3 guest bungalows, 2 pools, a museum and staff quarters. You get there only by small boat. We were lucky enough to be the only ones on the island so had the staff's complete attention. What I loved about the place was there were "activities" but nothing official. If you wanted to learn Indian cooking, you would be led in and find yourself making lunch for day for not only yourself but the staff.  This even included being invited as an honorary guest player for the nightly staff cricket match on a small pathway with most of the ground a swamp. Learnt so much hearing about the staff's family life, and they genuinely wanted to know all about Australia (cricket focus of course) It is smart but not over the top accommodation wise with all meals included... we left it to them opting for the most traditional Keralean food but you can request.  This is the way to see the waters...

OLAVIPE 

STAY: Olavipe Homestay 20 minutes by boat from the Green Lagoon. Truly unique experience staying in a grand old homestead with a family who had been landowners for generations. Rooms are clean, stately and private. Meal times were the highlight for not only the traditional food, but the stories of fellow travellers and our hosts. The nearby village has little to see although the walk gives a true insight to India rather than looking from a hotel balcony. Women's cooperatives (100 day government guaranteed work) lined the road to give them the opportunity of independence from their men who we were told often spent most of their salary in the local Toddy bars.  The homestay is quite isolated although  a good base to hire a driver and visit Fort Cochin for the day.

SEE: Ritual of Vidyarambha (Alphabet day) Hindu Festival where kids start learning to read and write. This day is in October and I implore anyone to get out into any of the local townships to see this. Local squares were packed with kids using paper, pens, the dirt learning their first letters and numbers. I watched a father hold his ~3 year old son's hand and write into grain/sand that had been laid out in the square. Just incredible.

FORT COCHIN

This town seems to be thriving from the recent injection of tourism although you can still get lost in the back streets away from the masses 

SEE: Chinese fishing nets. Walk along the pier and join the masses as this is in every guide book although still fascinating insight to an art passed through many generations. happy.snaps.

COFFEE: Kashi Art Cafe Local roasted coffee. Artwork by contemporary, young, often local artists. Gift stores are in and around the cafe which are enjoyable to look at although you will pay in tourist dollars.

ALLEPPEY

EXPERIENCE: Houseboat. Buyer beware. After all the hype we actually thought this was going to be the highlight (as well as one of the most expensive nights at around US $250) of our trip. Not going to promote the company we used as the houseboat was rundown and the staff dejected as they work literally continuously turning over tourist after tourist. Perhaps we just picked badly. It is great way to see the backwaters, but after providing an open bar to the local mosquitos and a shower replaced by a dripping tap, instead I implore you to experience the Green Lagoon resort above.

STAY: Raheem Residency. Beautifully restored, colonial style, bungalow built in the 1800's on Alleppey beach. Chakara Rooftop restaurant inside is intimate and tasty Southern Indian especially for the weary traveller that does not want to stray far. The beach is great to watch the local people at play although not for swimming.

TIP: Ambassador cars. As soon as I arrived in Kerala I wanted to experience a journey in one of these regal looking Indian icons. Keep the destination short however in the older models, as they overheat early driving the hills amongst the tea plantations 

STAY: Paradisa Plantation.  Its amongst the plantations, 360 views, isolated, and a retreat in the true sense. Great traditional food with a restaurant overlooking the valley and they welcome you to work with them in the kitchen. Simon, the owner and a true character, will likely take you down to the Planters Members Club.  Now a very simple bar with a pool table but steeped in history from the frequenting plantation owners over a number of generations. 

THEKKADI

SEE: Periyar Tiger Reserve. 1.5 hours away from the Paradisa. Rather than jumping on the boat with the hordes, pay for a ranger (~A$20 for two) to take you on a 3 hour walk through the park. We saw Maise deer, Sri Lanka Frog Mouths, monkeys, squirrels, but no elephants (gutted) which do roam the park.  You must wear long pants and sleeves. They give you clothing covers for the leeches and my god do you need them.

KOVALUM

STAY: Surya Samudra Resort.  One of the bigger and corporate run places we stayed with around 60 rooms (a guess) spread across the cliffs. The setting is amazing though with a cliff top bar, swimming beach and infinity pool. Take an auto into Kovalum to eat local.

SEE: Kovalum  This is UK's Brighton turned upside down. It is crass, ugly and and oh geat people watching of Europeans that took the wrong turn thinking it was Portugal. A little sad but has to be seen to be believed.

EAT: Beatles Restaurant.Upstairs overlooking the water. open air. very casual. good seafood focus food. live music later in the evenings. cold beer. very reasonable prices. 

WE READ. USED. ABUSED

Gourmet Traveller magazine

Qantas Travel Insider 

Lonely Planet Southern India