Pyramids everywhere
Memories from the first time I climbed a pyramid. And I even had deliberations with a monk at the top!
The really weird thing about the former city now called Koh Ker are the tight restrictions on walking. Outside the well marked, and well used pathways there are still undetonated mines. The work removing them are still going on, a quarter of a century after the civil war ended here.
It is a pity, because the nature here is as beautiful as it is in the rest of the Angkor Archaeological area. There are some small villages, but it is the nearly 180 remains of temples and other sanctuaries in the 81 km2 jungle filled region that is really interesting. But yet not very accessible. But the 40 sites in the demined areas are worth a visit.
Former imperial capital
Among them this pyramid. It is a 36 meter high, seven tiered pyramid probably serving as the state temple for the Angkor King Jayavarman IV. He, and his son and heir king Harshavarman II briefly moved the capital of the Khmer Empire to this site between 928-944 CE. The capital was named Lingapura (city of lingams) or Chok Gargyar (translated as city of glance, or as iron tree forest).
The panorama view is worth the short climb up a modern steel scaffold stairs. I did meet a buddhist monk on top. As often is, the local monks like to talk and practice their English on visitors. You do get some insider information on people and culture in Cambodia that way.
Even after the capital was moved back to the area around todays Siem Reap, Koh Ker played an important role in the development of art and architecture in the Khmer empire. Jayavarman IV himself initiated a heavy program of building a stately capital. Over 40 temples and an enormous water tank was built during his reign.
Day trip options
Koh Ker (Khmer: ប្រាសាទកោះកេរ្ដិ៍) is a remote archaeological site in about 120 kilometres (75 mi) away from Siem Reap, to the east of Koulen Mountain. It is one of the places of old Angkor where the Temple ticket/pass does not cover entrance. The fee is (2021) 10 USD. It is appx a 90 minute drive from Siem Reap.
Food, drinks and lodging is available. And the contribution to the local economy is highly welcome.
