Kazakh Girl in a Traditional Bridal Headdress Known as a Saukele
"TheĀ saukeleĀ is a richly decorated headdress, and it was not affordable for all. In the end of the 19thĀ and beginning of the 20th century, it could cost as much as 5000 silver rubles. AĀ saukeleĀ had to be ordered in advance of the wedding, usually one or one and a half years priorāafter the matchmaking (engagement) was already completed and the girl had become a bride waiting for a wedding. At that moment, her family would order aĀ saukeleĀ from the jeweler.
There are no two identicalĀ saukele. Each jeweler adorned and decorated this headpiece in their own way. SomeĀ saukelesĀ have region-specific characteristics, so, for instance, a western KazakhĀ saukeleĀ is distinguished by the massive, often anthropomorphic metal linings in the central part of the headpiece. In the southernĀ saukele, its textile decoration elements were more visible. And yet,Ā saukelesĀ always had universal elements of design and decor, which were repeated from time to time. For example, the cone-like, high shape of the headdress is a hallmark of the piece and the hats could reach a height of 70 centimeters. They were usually made of white felt because it was considered a good quality and expensive material, and the felt was sheathed on top with other fabrics such as cloth, velvet, or silk, but always red in color. Why red? The red color has always been a symbol of fertility; it is a sign of a woman at the peak of her fertile age, and it signifies a wish of many children for a young bride.
Inside eachĀ saukele, there is a three-lobed quilted cap, very similar in shape to the lining under a helmet, which we will explain a little later. An embroidered strip behind theĀ saukeleĀ is usually quite long and richly decorated. Some researchers believe that this strip is aĀ nakosnik, a triangular decoration hung on the end of the braid. Itās true that, in ancient times (as theĀ saukeleĀ traces its history back to quite ancient times), women had to hide their hair after they got married, ensuring that no stranger could see it. Unmarried girls and women could walk with their hair loose or with braids, but after marriage, they had to hide it. So with time, theĀ nakosnikāwhich covered the braid behind theĀ saukeleāhas become an embroidered strip, or a falseĀ nakosnik. On the both sides of theĀ saukele,Ā there are surprisingly richly decorated pendants calledĀ jahtau. They always include precious stones and beads such as coral, pearls, and glass. Behind theĀ saukeleĀ we see a scarf called aĀ jelek. This is a veil that covers the shoulders of the bride, and sometimes her face."
