#kanmuri

(as worn by upper-ranked samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".

The Sokutai

束帯 Sokutai is the most formal attire worn by Edo period samurai of the 4th rank and above.

It first appeared during Heian era as a ceremonial court dress worn by 公卿 kuge (nobility/Imperial court) and 殿上人tenjôbito (courtiers/court official​s). Usage was kept well into Edo period by both the Imperial court and the Tokugawa shogunate.

The intricated garb includes:

冠 Kanmuri - hat, with distinctive 垂纓 suiei "tail" hanging in the back. Materials could include silk, lacquer or horsehair and were strickly regulated

袍 Hô - a round-necked robe with large boxy sleeves. Colors and patterns were strickly regulated.

Shown here is a pattern used by the Shôgun, the 葵に丁子唐草 Aoi ni chôji karakusa (cloves with arabesques, and hollyhock leaves - which is the Tokugawa crest)

笏 Shaku - flat ritual sceptre

平緒 Hirao - a wide flat braid wrapped around the body with ties left hanging up front. Colors and weaves were strickly regulated

(飾)太刀 (Kazari)-Tachi - (mock) long sword for ceremonial use

表袴 Ue-no-bakama (or omote-bakama) - white overpants, shorter hakama pants worn over the aka-ôkuchi

赤大口(袴) Aka-ôkuchi(bakama) - red underpants, a tad longer than the overpants

下襲(の裾) Shitagasane(no-kyo) - visible train part of an inner robe worn under the 袍 hô. During Edo period, train lenght got up to 1丈 (around 3 meters/10 feet).

襪 Shitôzu - a type of ancient socks (construction is different than tabi - they don't have a sole for ex.)

石帯 Sekitai - leather belt used in ceremonial court dress, covered in black lacquer, and decorated with stones and jewels

The Ikan

衣冠 Ikan - while still very formal and worn by Edo period samurai of the 4th rank and above, ikan looked much more simpler than sokutai.

First used for nightime duties (夜間宿直) in Heian era, it gradually came to be worm during daytime too. From Muromachi period and onwards, it had become the work uniform of the Imperial court.

Like sokutai, it uses the hô+kanmuri, and wearers were allowed to carry kazari-tachi. Yet, note how the pants differ from sokutai ones: those are large bouffant pants called 指貫 sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama).

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What is a Miko?

Miko typically refers to as young female priests at a Shinto shrine.

For centuries, Miko have performed Kagura (sacred dances for entertaining and satisfying the Shinto deities), exorcisms, practiced divination, acted oracles. Believed to posses magical powers, they also worked as spirit mediums, channeling spirits, and various other functions as required.

Today, however, Miko are tasked with performing kagura and other ritual dances during special occasions and aid the priests of the shrine in their functions. You will often see miko selling omamori, or good luck charms, or omikuji paper fortunes, at the shrine office windows.

In Japanese, miko is usually written with the characters for "medium" and "woman" as 巫女. However, miko may also be referred as 神子, written with the characters for "god" and "child." 舞姫, or "maihime" is also another word to describe miko (it refers to the miko's role of performing sacred dances). 大御巫, "o-mikanko" is another word for miko, essentially meaning "sacred child."

The Miko’s Appearance 

Miko wear a white robe known as a hakui with a pair of red hakama known as hibakama. When performing dances or kagura, miko wear a white chihaya, a loose jacket with long kimono-like sleeves, over their regular uniform.

Their long, black hair must be tied back in a simple low ponytail, held with either a takenaga, a ribbon made from Japanese washi paper, or a mizuhiki, a cord made from twisted washi under which a sheet of white washi paper is wrapped around the hair.

During rites and certain events, miko may also wear special floral hairpieces known as hanakanzashi or a special diadem (crown) called kanmuri. The flowers, tree branches, and floral motifs used in these pieces are representative of the many different types of plants in Japan, which are said to increase the spiritual power of the wearer.

The first page of the Four Lords line reveals a headpiece that will surely be an eyecatcher to all who bear witness.  This “Crown of the North” is fashioned purely from Black Opal, an extremely rare precious gemstone, made in the likeness of Genbu, the Black Tortoise of the North.

In ancient times, it was said that Genbu was in fact a tortoise entwined with a snake, but was never referred to as either animal, and was known as the Black Warrior of the North.  Genbu was also a being of studiousness and divinity, who was said to have purged all sins from his body in order to achieve true enlightenment.

The Black Opal Crown of the North is cleverly made in the shape of a kanmuri, and those who don it will feel the very auspice’s wisdom flowing through them. Despite the natural hardness of the Black Opal, the kanmuri is deceptively comfortable, fitting snugly on the wearer's head, and in the light, a myriad of colors can be seen dancing amidst its surface.

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Artist :   かんむり (pixiv / twitter)

** Permission to post from their pages was granted by the artist Don’t remove credits & don’t repost/edit the art Please, rate and/or bookmark their works on Pixiv too **

Artist :   かんむり (pixiv / twitter)

** Permission to post from their pages was granted by the artist Don’t remove credits & don’t repost/edit the art Please, rate and/or bookmark their works on Pixiv too **

Artist :   かんむり (pixiv / twitter)