#joeffercaoc

(images via wmcfwt)

okay, so this is a new one.  i think we've been lucky this toronto fashion week to see both old favourites and some exciting new (sometimes to the event, sometimes just to opt) houses, and to add to the list of the latter is the philipines-born, canadian-raised designer joeffer caoc, whose marvelous a/w 2012 range surprised me until i read how long he's been at this (he founded his first label back in 1995).  the collection was both ladylike and sophisticated, but managed to have some bite--to be sure, before the show, the designer told quip magazine (in perhaps their sole useful quote from the interview) that it was "more dressed-up, more glamorous, and with a bit of a rocker edge," than the prior season.

fortunately, however, they're not our only source, and during a much more enlightening interview with real style network, mr. caoc expanded on the above, noting that "(t)he inspiration I had was an eclectic housewife with a rocker past. While I was working on the collection I realized that I was mixing all of the elements of design that I love. It’s really just a mixture of the design and fabrications and silhouettes, sort of mixing everything up."  and when asked about his envisioned customer for the fall, he rejoined, "(d)efinitely a creative woman, a confident woman. I think the kind of woman who isn’t really into being trendy all of the time. You should be able to mix the things that I’ve done in the past and I do take that into consideration when I design the collection."

frankly, i have to say that i love not only the designer's slow-brand concept (mixing pieces from various seasons, rather than scrapping the aesthetic entirely and starting again, as the likes of prada & balenciaga are so quick to do), as well as the notion that he was inspired by the image of a housewife.  too often that's become a dirty word, a concept for a myth lived in the past, something out of sync and unstylish, but...why?  why can't a woman doing care-taking of her home look every bit as fabulous as her office-going counterparts?  and that isn't to suggest that this very snazzy collection would look out of place in a boardroom (i'd also like to see employees of art galleries or eclectic fashion shops working some of the metallic and leather pieces)--indeed, there was a lot of life one could muster out of these looks.

anyway, the winnepeg free press reported that the collection was called 'remix,' and described of the colour palette, "(w)hile largely steeped in black, gold, tan and coppery hues, there were brighter punctuations of colour with lush, wide-collared coats in lavender and mocha."  range materials included the aforementioned leather and metallics, as well as tweed, jersey, and silk and the pieces were frequently popped with sequins, studded belts, bows, or those yummy marabou-trimmed black peep-toe platform shoes (rather reminding me of a vintage slipper).  the designer liked his emphasis on the natural waistline, carving it out with either belts and ribbons, or seaming and peplums, while generally cutting his skirts and frocks to fall just below the knee. 

it was frankly rather refreshing to see pieces with a little more coverage for the fall, skin-tastic as they've been of late, and his sleeves usually fell longer or at 3/4-lengths, as well (though he did seem to like his trousers cropped).  what appealed to me most was the way the clothes were still fantastically sexy, but gave the woman the ability to decide how much to show off, and (also a real revelation!) felt curve-appropriate--at once alluring, but forgiving. i liked the spice of his ruffles, structured shoulders, asymmetrical cuts, and print-on-print, which gave the range a fantastically kicky vibe, yet at once could be worn by younger or 'older' (read: in the fashion world, beyond 35) ladies alike.  i'm surprised i haven't noticed mr. caoc until now, but this was one of the more exciting labels to get my eye on this season, and i'll be watching his work eagerly in the future (see additional show images at fashion magazine).