In focus: Jaan Bai, Battambang, Cambodia I first read about this top quality restaurant sponsored by the Cambodian Children's Trust when researching my trip through The Guardian's travel section, and immediately wanted to go. I was reassured by Fraser, the friendly barman at Here Be Dragons, that CCT is one of the most reputable Khmer charities and all the money goes straight to the staff, most of whom have faced a tough start in life living on the streets but now have the skills and training to deliver excellent service. I was also warned that Jaan Bai's prices are a bit higher than the average traveller's budget would stretch too - reassuring, given the ecotourism angle I was aiming for - but I was pleasantly surprised. The most expensive thing on the menu was Kampot pepper crab at $12, which I naturally veered towards until learning its popularity had taken it off the menu for the evening. Damn. Matt and I opted to share two small plates and a large one, which led to us experiencing the very best calamari we've ever tasted. Perfectly soft squid coated in perfectly crunchy batter, I was slightly disappointed in myself for opting for such a common and non-native dish, but mouthful after mouthful delivered Cambodian spice and an incredible Khmer salt and pepper twist. The dipping sauce - slightly spicy soy sauce with ginger I think - added to the enduring deliciousness of the dish which I was genuinely sad to finish. Secondly, we had pork belly bao, a popular Asian rice bread that is tasty but sticks in your mouth for hours after: we spent the journey to Bangkok trying to unstick our jaws after eating a poor quality one from a gas station... But Jaan Bai had cracked it, the pork belly was tantalisingly tender and the bao dipped in sweet chilli sauce complimented the meat well. Last, we shared sticky chicken legs soaked in palm sugar and ginger served with morning glory (a naively-chosen Asian name for stewed green beans). The chicken fell off the bone and the skin was just sweet enough thanks to the palm sugar. Absolutely delicious. The art on the walls adds to the ambience too. I later discovered that the Dios los Muertes-inspired skulls were created by a local artist called Pearun, who was studying at Battambang's Phare Ponleu Selpak, a school which trains disadvantaged young people in various art forms, from animation to circus performance. Naturally, I bought a couple of Pearun's cards to keep as a reminder of the place. I think what Jaan Bai does well -and is apparent based on the dishes we chose - is simplicity in commonly-consumed world foods with a Khmer edge. This results in a genuinely enjoyable dinner that can be enjoyed comfortably by knowing exactly what you're getting - no watery amoks here - while being reassured that you're tasting dishes specially designed and crafted by talented local chefs. Jaan Bai, Street 2, Battambang, Cambodia www.cambodiachildrenstrust.org
