#india;

A highly energetic environment, full of people, but with easily navigable wide streets in view of the ever-present beacons of the Mehrangarh Fort and the Clock Tower.  I love markets because of how lively they are, a window to local life. 

While normally not a huge travel shopper, I do like to support local artisans, so I have established three "can do's" that help me to avoid buyer's regret: I am allowed to purchase delicious foods to eat on spot, clothing and accessories that I am happy wearing in the streets of London, unique teas and red wine if I am checking in luggage. It was super easy to keep to these rules.

We started out in the fresh produce market, joining the morning crowds to explore the most deliciously looking fruits and veggies. Once we had our fill of healthy foods we began looking for the naughty sweets the city is famous for, they were colourful, so diverse and made with the most varied combo of ingredients. In sweet tooth wonderland, I discovered I "need" gulab jamun, oh little curdled milk balls of happiness!

We erased our sugar stupor with the intensely dense smells of the spice stalls. We found a lovely shop were the merchant expertly mixed me a cinnamon and cardamon (my favorite) tea and we also tried out a few curry powders that made us cry in agony on approach. Naturally, I bought the mix that comes with the warning 'do not handle with bare hands'.

As well as being a textile haven, the city is also recognised for its very unique sense of fashion which often includes some rather fetching ridding breeches, brocaded long coats and (oh, yeah!) shoes. The Jodhpuri jutis have suffered a mass-marketing transformation akin to the Rio havainas, and traditional styles are sold in equal earnest to more modernised models that would easily complement the most stylish urban outfit.

We visited the Maharani fabric emporium by recommendation, where we sat through the obligatory presentation about their vast collection of silk brocades, pashminas, wool and silk scarves. Prices are fixed at distributor rate, so there was no bargaining song and dance, and the clientele that day gave the place some credibility: mostly retail-buyers and one smartly dressed Middle Eastern royal travelling with a complete security entourage.

I also discovered some stunning hand-block methods used to brightly pattern cloth, sari trims and fresh modern clothing.  I couldn't resist purchasing a cotton sun-dress at an Anokhi store, a brand specialising in contemporary crafted textiles that make use of time-honoured regional techniques.

After a long morning in the city markets, we headed out into the outskirts, visiting community-run businesses setup to complement rural livelihoods. One after another, artisans informed us about how they still use classical techniques to produce high-quality goods sold globally. These tiny dirt road villages are exporting internationally yet I often struggle with amazon marketplace deliveries back home...sigh!

At a co-op carpet academy we saw apprentices work on a traditional loom to create intricate custom orders. A master craftsman explained the history of the cotton weave, how the different hues are made with natural dyes, and how the washable reversible dhurrie is so suited for desert living. He vehemently declared that he most enjoys the rare opportunity to create an original pattern, the creative process of the perennial artist.

And just as we drove around these rural villages, it struck! The roadrunner appeared out of nowhere, speeding in front of our car! Next thing you know, they were everywhere, running around like bullet trains, wild peacocks racing around their beautiful jewel-toned feathers, they totally looked like that silly taunting bird. A treat to see, but almost impossible to photograph at their lightning speed.

We had entered the nature sanctuary of the local Bishnoi homesteads. The original "tree huggers" live by strict principles of nature conservation and symbiotic relationship to flora and fauna. A family invited us into their home to explain their customs and beliefs, exposing a strong sense of responsibility towards the environment and also an almost mystic sensibility, Bishnoi patriarchs still often consume an opium milk mixture to attain a spiritual high.

I discovered a sincere respect for living creatures, especially the spotted deer which the community considers holy and essential for maintaining the balance of the ecosystem. Alongside this natural philosophy, there was a remarkable love for art, the walls of the homesteads were embellished with bright hand-painted pictures of animals and deities, giving these modest dwellings a strange resemblance to the best renaissance graffito. A beautiful explosion of colour in a humble rural setting.

SHOP: Anokhi,  Maharani Art Exporters