Then and Now: Hippodrom in Frankfurt
Walk past the intersection of Stresemannallee and Kennedyallee today, and you’d never guess what once stood here: an architectural landmark, a center of society, a monument to equestrian grandeur. The Hippodrome in Sachsenhausen, opened in 1899, was once the largest public riding hall in Germany – and so much more.
This article traces the story of a nearly forgotten place – and a building that once helped define Frankfurt’s identity.
😯 I: Where horses once pranced
At the turn of the 20th century, Frankfurt was a city in love with horseback life. The city forest offered endless bridle paths, and elegant carriages rolled through its streets. In 1899, a building opened at the corner of Wilhelmstraße and Forsthausstraße that would crown this equestrian era: the Hippodrom – once the largest public riding hall in Germany.
Built by local giant Philipp Holzmann and financed by a group of equestrian enthusiasts, the venue quickly became the city’s epicenter of horse culture.
The two-story building was a technical and architectural marvel. The ground floor housed stables for over 130 horses, carriage sheds, a blacksmith, waiting rooms, and a restaurant. Horses were lifted via elevators – later replaced by concrete ramps – to the riding arena above.
The main hall was a 50 × 25-meter column-free space that seated nearly 2,900 spectators. Its special feature: a movable floor, transforming the arena into a parquet-floored concert hall in just 30 minutes – ready for variety shows, orchestras, or grand society balls.
Hippodrom was built in 1899 with the intention of giving Frankfurt a heart for its horse culture.
✨ II: Tournaments, Dances, and the Frankfurt Elite
Before World War I, the Hippodrome was a magnet for Frankfurt’s bourgeoisie and aristocracy. Prominent families like the von Weinbergs and von Metzlers were regulars at the prestigious events of the Frankfurt Racing Club.
The 1920s saw a shift: horseback riding became a popular pastime. Locals learned to ride, trained in fencing, performed gymnastics – or danced. Residents still remember borrowing horses and riding into the city forest, or dancing to swing music after the war, with smuggled wine and borrowed glasses.
The venue quickly became an epicentre of equestrian sports.
🌚 III: From Military Hospital to Propaganda Hall
During World War I, the Hippodrome served as a military hospital. Photographs from 1915 show rows of soldiers tended to by Red Cross nurses.
Under the Nazis, it became a rally site. Flags, speeches, parades – the Hippodrome’s grandeur was repurposed for political theatre. The Hitler Youth assembled here, alongside functionaries of the regime.
Then came the air raids. The Hippodrome was severely damaged during World War II.
During militarization era, the Hippodrome served as a temporary hospital (image below). On the upper image, taken in the yard of Hippodrome, you can see the venue in the right corner.
🧱 IV: From Ballroom to Barrier - Postwar Use, Demolition, and Diplomacy
Despite the ruins, people danced. The hall was patched up just enough for swing concerts – held in the afternoons to avoid the curfew. With no alcohol for sale, visitors brought their own wine and paid “corkage” for glasses.
By 1956, the building was structurally unsound and torn down. It was replaced by an administrative complex for the Association of Electrical and Electronics Industries – which now serves as the Consulate General of the People’s Republic of China.
Today, a 3.5-meter-high security wall surrounds the site – a far cry from the once open, inviting grounds. That the wall was built without a permit? A mere footnote in the story.
In contemporary times, the Consulate General of the People’s Republic of China is located on the area of the Hippodrome - widely known in Frankfurt due to its high fences. In the lowest image, you can see the current perspective on what was once the main entrance of Hippodrome.
💔 V: What Remains, is just a street and a memory
The former tram stop was once called “Hippodrome.” The curve of Schreyerstraße still traces the building’s original footprint. And in the minds of a few, echoes of hoofbeats, applause, and jazz still linger – long after the arena itself has vanished.
