So I've watched Goncharov about a hundred times at this point....
Why the fuck is no one talking about the symbolism of jewelry in Katya's relationships?!?!?
Like, Katya is a woman who takes pride in her appearance which obviously becomes a reflection of her mental state, and by extension the state of her relationships with Goncharov and Sofia, throughout the film. In the beginning of the film, Katya is wearing diamonds and pearls (both of which form from adverse circumstances), which reflects her elegance and sophistication as Donna Goncharova but it's also a subtle way to show the cracks in her marriage. Goncharov uses expensive jewelry as a way of avoiding hard conversations about their issues, always finding a way to bring up how much each piece costs as a way of trying to cut off Katya's frustrations, and the snide way he jokes about it during the cocktail scene is telling of how fragile their relationship has become, especially when the film juxtaposes the elaborate diamond and pearl necklace he gives her right before the infamous carnival scene with the simple pearl earrings that she tells us were a gift from their first anniversary.
In contrast, you have the sea glass bracelet that Sofia buys for her in the marketplace. It is, in Valery's words, a "cheap trinket" but Sofia picked it out for her because it matches her eyes!!! To Sofia, the bracelet is a token of affection but to Katya it is so much more because for the first time in years, someone gave her a gift because they wanted to make her happy, not show off how much money they spend on her! And we as the audience can clearly see how much she cherishes that bracelet, the way she leaves her expensive jewelry all over her vanity, not caring even when she loses the new diamond earrings that Goncharov just bought while carefully tucking the bracelet into its own jewelry case whenever she isn't wearing it.
And the way that the film contrasts how Goncharov and Sofia give her the jewelry; Goncharov is careless when giving her the new jewelry cases, tossing them around, barely even looking at Katya when he gives her a "present" because the gifts are obligations now, much like their relationship has become for the both of them, a part they play with each other, a hollow echo of past love. While Sofia doesn't just look at her when giving her the bracelet, she fastens it on Katya's wrist herself and tells her how beautiful it looks on her. She sees Katya, the good, the bad, and the damaged, and reminds her that like sea glass, her broken parts don't have to keep hurting her, that it's okay to let time soften the sharp edges of her grief.
Idk, maybe I'm crazy but I always go crazy when a character's appearance becomes a part of the themes of a film and Katya is such a pivotal character in the film that I'm surprised more people aren't talking about this.