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The Men's Abbey in Caen

The Men's Abbey in Caen was founded in 1063 by William the Conqueror. There are two key parts to this magnificent building which is known as l'Abbaye aux Hommes.

The first is the abbey church of Saint Etienne and this is where William is buried. The church is free to visit and is a wonderful example of 11th century Normandy Romanesque art. The church was consecrated in 1077 in William's presence. Read my guide to the abbey church in Caen here. The second part is a series of buildings used by the Benedictine monks for prayer and everyday monastic life. These buildings are attached to the church and are now used as the City Hall. You can take a self guided tour or a guided visit of some of the ground floor buildings. Both are very reasonably priced and details are in the practical information section below. The buildings are impressive both inside and out and represent a walk through centuries of history.

The Creation of The Abbey

In 1050/51 William married his distant cousin Matilda. However, their union was frowned upon by the church and relations between Normandy and Rome were strained. Mediation towards the end of the 1050s led to a pardon from the Pope with some conditions. As a penance, William was ordered to build two abbeys and four hospitals. The four hospitals were built in Caen, Bayeux, Rouen and Cherbourg. Both the abbeys were built in Caen; the Men's Abbey and the Ladies' Abbey built respectively by William and Matilda. The abbey was founded in 1063 and consecrated on 18 June 1066. On 25th December in the same year William was crowned as the King of England following the Battle of Hastings. The majority of the church was built between 1065 and 1077 and consecrated later that year. This intense building period was due to William's rise in importance and the fact that building materials were readily available nearby. The Ducal Palace was built in the 14th century and this is at the rear of the abbey. Between 1562 and 1563, the monastic buildings were badly damaged during the Wars of Religion. They were no longer able to accommodate the monks and, as a result, were demolished at the end of the 17th century. The bakery, apple press, coach house, Ducal Palace and the Guard's Hall weren't affected and still reflect the medieval origins of the abbey. The abbey buildings that you see today were rebuilt in the 18th century.

One of the permanent exhibitions at the abbey is entitled Anglo-Normand World. It looks at the links between Normandy and England from a religious and also an architectural perspective. Visitors can also read information about the abbey's founding charter, property acts and deeds. You can view a copy of a charter with William's signature on it. Plus, take a look at the seals used by William and other nobility including Richard the Lionheart.

Taking A Self-Guided Tour

This option is called 'une visite decouverte' and you stroll around by yourself. Times and tariffs are below. There are information boards in both French and English. Both the exhibitions in the abbey also have bilingual display boards explaining the key points. There was also the option to listen to an audio recording in English in the first exhibition. As you go in through the main entrance, the ticket office is just to the right. You'll be given a small leaflet that has a plan of the route you take.

The first stop is the Calefactory or Warming Room. In French it is known as the chauffoir. The permanent exhibition about the Anglo-Normand World is set up here. A key feature of this room is the fireplace and is how the room got its name. It was one of the few rooms in the abbey that was heated. Benedictine monks lived their everyday life without comforts of any kind including heating.

Next you make your way into the cloister. I was lucky enough to be the only person taking the abbey visit so was able to enjoy the peace and quiet and enjoy the beautiful architecture. The cloister is relatively simple in design and is built in a Tuscan style.

The Services Board is stop 3 on the tour. It's a carved oak board dating from 1744. The four columns indicate the times when the monks had to worship and the tasks they had to do during the services.

The former gatehouse (porterie) houses the second permanent exhibition. The gatehouse would have been the original entrance to the abbey as it led through to the parlour. It was also opposite the Ducal Place where important guests were accommodated. The exhibition looks at the events of the summer of 1944 following the bombings. Photos, texts, letters, audio and video accounts show how Caen inhabitants went about their everyday life until the city was liberated. There is also another staircase in this room.

You now retrace your steps and return to the entrance hall. From here you can go through and admire the grand staircase. It leads to offices so you can't go up to the first floor. If you peer through the window on left hand wall you can catch a glimpse of the Guard's Room. La Salle des Gardes was built in the 14th century and was used as a reception room for guests. It acquired its current name in the 18th century despite never being a garrison for troops.

The final part of the tour is the Scriptorium and is where the monks studied and copied manuscripts. Temporary exhibitions are held here although there wasn't one on when I visited. You can still go into the room which is light and airy as it has large windows along two of its sides.

You can browse the shop housed in the main entrance hall before you leave.

A Guided Tour

These 50 minute tours don't need to be pre-booked. There are also a series of themed tours throughout the year in French. Taking a guided tour will allow you to see additional rooms in the abbey. They include the Guard's Room, the apple press, the refectory, the parlour, the sacristy and the chapter house. The chapter house is known as the Salle Capitulaire and is where marriages take place nowadays. If there's a specific room you're interested in visiting, check whether it's included on the regular guided visit or a themed one. This page (in French) has a floor plan of the abbey and shows whether the rooms on the guided and themed tours are. The Sacristy leads through to the church and I was fortunate enough to get a glimpse of it. I happened to be passing as the door was unlocked by a member of staff. This room is where vestments, church furnishings and sacred vessels are kept.

Practical Information

The self guided tour is available throughout the year and you can take as long as you like. The cost is 3€ or 4€ if there's a temporary exhibition on. The 50 minute guided tour entitled 'An Exceptional Heritage' doesn't need to be booked and costs 5,50€. See below for details of tours in English. The themed guided tours last one and a half hours. You need to book in advance and places may be limited. The tour will only go ahead if the minimum number of people book. They cost 7€. The 2020 programme for the themed tours will be available online or by visiting the ticket office.

Opening Hours for the Self Guided Tour

1st October to 31st March (closed 25th December, 1st January and weekends in January) Monday to Thursday from 8am to 6pm. Friday from 8am to 5pm. Saturday from 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5.30pm. Sundays, school holidays and public holidays from 9.30am to 1pm and 2 pm to 6pm. From 1st April to 30th June and from 1st - 30th September (closed on 1st May) Monday to Thursday from 8am to 6pm. Friday from 8am to 5pm. Weekends and public holidays from 9.30am to 1pm and 2pm to 6pm. From 1 st July to 31st August Monday to Friday from 8am to 6.30pm. Weekends and public holidays from 9.30am to 6.30pm. The ticket offices closes 30 minutes before the abbey closes.

Guided Tour Times

From 1st October to 31st March (except 25th December, 1st January and weekends in January) Monday to Friday: contact the Abbaye aux Hommes No tours on Saturdays, only a self guided tour is available Sundays, school holidays and public holidays (except January): guided tours at 10.30am and 2pm. From 1st April to 30th June and from 1st to 30th September (except 1st May) Daily guided tours at 10.30am, 2.30pm and 4pm From 1st July to 31st August Every day of the week in French at 10.30am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm, 4pm and 5.30pm (except Sunday 14th July) Monday to Friday in English at 1.30pm and 4pm with English speaking students from Portsmouth (UK) and Alexandria (USA). All tours are in French unless otherwise specified. Specific dates and dates will be advertised for the themed tours.

Top Tips

Check the opening times before you visit as they differ throughout the year

Consider visiting either early in the morning, over lunchtime or later in the afternoon as it may be quieter

Ask for a leaflet in English if you're doing the self guided tour

Only go into parts of the abbey you're permitted to.

There are restrooms at the far end of the Scriptorium

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[Duplicated:275744] Buying Organic Food in Normandy

Buying organic food in Normandy is becoming easier as the number of outlets stocking it increase. In the last 10 years organic food has become more mainstream in Normandy.

So, where can you find organic products? Firstly, you need to know that the word for organic is 'bio'. Anything you see with this word on it is organic. There's also a green and white logo that certifies organic products. Secondly, you need to know which outlets stock organic products.

There are four main places where you can buy organic food.

Supermarkets

Carrefour was the first French supermarket to embrace the organic trend. In 1992 they launched the 'boule bio' - boule is a round unsliced loaf of bread. Over the decades they have increased the range of products available. Other supermarkets such as LeClerc, Lidl, Casino/Géant, Intermarché, Super U/Hyper U and Auchan all stock organic products. Organic products that are chilled or frozen are alongside regular products. Dry goods are usually in a specific organic section.

Grocery Stores

Épiceries or épicerices fines will stock some organic food. An épicerice fine is a high quality grocery or delicatessen. They often sell local artisan food products.

Organic Producers

La Ferme de Cara-Meuh is a producer near Mont Saint Michel bay. Their most popular products are chewy caramel sweets but they also make caramel sauce, butter and cheese from their organic milk. In nearby Saint-Pair-sur-Mer is the producer Meuh Cola.  Their range includes sparkling apple, lemonade and three colas- original, clear and pink. La Chèvre Rit in Granville produce organic goats cheese, fromage frais and yoghurt. You can also buy products including terrines/patés, jams, cordials and juices. This interactive map shows organic producers and shops in Normandy. Some of the producers sell from their farms whereas others sell via the épiceries, organic supermarkets and in markets.

Organic Supermarkets

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Buying Organic Food in Normandy

Buying organic food in Normandy is becoming easier as the number of outlets stocking it increase. In the last 10 years organic food has become more mainstream in Normandy.

So, where can you find organic products? Firstly, you need to know that the word for organic is 'bio'. Anything you see with this word on it is organic. There's also a green and white logo that certifies organic products. Secondly, you need to know which outlets stock organic products.

There are four main places where you can buy organic food.

Supermarkets

Carrefour was the first French supermarket to embrace the organic trend. In 1992 they launched the 'boule bio' - boule is a round unsliced loaf of bread. Over the decades they have increased the range of products available. Other supermarkets such as LeClerc, Lidl, Casino/Géant, Intermarché, Super U/Hyper U and Auchan all stock organic products. Organic products that are chilled or frozen are alongside regular products. Dry goods are usually in a specific organic section.

Grocery Stores

Épiceries or épicerices fines will stock some organic food. An épicerice fine is a high quality grocery or delicatessen. They often sell local artisan food products.

Organic Producers

La Ferme de Cara-Meuh is a producer near Mont Saint Michel bay. Their most popular products are chewy caramel sweets but they also make caramel sauce, butter and cheese from their organic milk. In nearby Saint-Pair-sur-Mer is the producer Meuh Cola.  Their range includes sparkling apple, lemonade and three colas- original, clear and pink. La Chèvre Rit in Granville produce organic goats cheese, fromage frais and yoghurt. You can also buy products including terrines/patés, jams, cordials and juices. This interactive map shows organic producers and shops in Normandy. Some of the producers sell from their farms whereas others sell via the épiceries, organic supermarkets and in markets.

Organic Supermarkets

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The Non-Violence Sculpture

The Non-Violence sculpture is also known as The Knotted Gun sculpture. The Swedish artist Carl Fredrik Reuterswärd created this piece in bronze following the shooting of former Beatle John Lennon in 1980.

The sculpture was created as a memorial tribute with the idea behind it being a vision of a world at peace. Initially, the sculpture was placed in the Strawberry Fields memorial in Central Park in New York. In 1988 the Government of Luxembourg donated it to the United Nations.It has remained outside their headquarters in New York ever since.

Since 1993, the sculpture has been the symbol of The Non-Violence Project, a nonprofit organization that promotes social change through violence-prevention education programmes.

There are over 30 copies of the Knotted Gun sculpture around the world. The photos in this article were taken at the Caen Mémorial Museum, Centre for History and Peace in Normandy. The sculpture is displayed in the grounds of the museum close to the entrance.

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The Colourful Carnival in Granville

The carnival in Granville will be held from 21st to 25th February this year. It's an annual event that lasts for five days and always finishes on the Tuesday of Mardi Gras.

The main street in Granville

This is the 146th event and is one of the most well -know events in the North West of France. Since 2016 the Carnival in Granville has been on the UNESCO list.

The History Of The Carnival

Granville is a seaport and the carnival's history links to the maritime activities of the city for centuries. Fishermen used to go to sea for extended periods to catch cod as this was the key activity for the port. Traditionally they would leave around Shrove Tuesday or Mardi Gras and therefore the carnival was their last chance to celebrate before setting sail.

The confetti fight is held on the final day of the carnival

The Programme

Saturday and Sunday are the most popular days although this year the event falls within the school holidays. The children's parade takes place on the Saturday while the main parade is on the Sunday. Around 40 floats take part and 3000 people take part in the procession. A huge amount of work goes into the parades but the spectators also join in too. Weird and wonderful fancy dress is the order of the day and the event ends on the Tuesday with a huge confetti fight. Lots of the audience dress up too with many wearing fancy dress, masks or hats. The shops are full of dressing up outfits and huge bags of confetti in the run up to the carnival. There are various concerts taking place and you can find out more about the Granville carnival programme here. On the Sunday there's a shuttle bus system in operation as you can't drive into the centre of Granville. The main route for the parade and the surrounding roads will be closed. The buses operate between 10am and 8pm. For a preview of what to expect, please take a look at the video below.

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Visiting the Normandy WW2 Sites

If you have just 24 hours you could spend a day discovering the Normandy WW2 sites. There is a huge amount to see so this is just an introduction. Nevertheless it's a very useful suggested itinerary for visiting the D-Day landing beaches in Normandy.

The battery at La Pointe du Hoc

The article below was written by Normandy Now and Then in 2015. It was part of a series of day trips for Normandy fans presented by a WW2 historian. It includes a visit to Pegasus Bridge Memorial, Arromanches and La Pointe du Hoc.

The article suggests starting in Bénouville where the Pegasus Bridge Memorial and Museum are. I visited the bridge in 2018 and you can read my blog about my time at the Pegasus Bridge.

The next stop on the tour is Arromanches and a lunch stop. Since the article was written a new D-Day garden has been created. I visited in July 2019 just after it has been installed for the 75th anniversary commemorations. It's just opposite the 360 cinema referred to in the piece.

La Pointe du Hoc is the final stop for the tour of Normandy WW2 sites. This will take you beyond Omaha beach and is a very emotional visit.

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A Day Discovering the WW2 Sites in Normandy

If you have just 24 hours in Normandy you could spend a day discovering the WW2 sites. There is a huge amount to see so this is just an introduction. Nevertheless it's a very useful suggested itinerary for visiting the D-Day landing beaches in Normandy.

The battery at La Pointe du Hoc