#fitting guide

Thin/Bony or Muscular Ribcage: Those who are thin or athletic/muscular sometimes find that their starting point size is too small in the band for them, especially if they also have small breasts. This is because the band stretches to fit your underbust, just like how a hair tie stretches to hold your hair up. For someone whose ribcage isn't very squishy, that elasticity can be uncomfortable!

Symptoms:

The band leaves deep, painful marks

The band leaves bruises (careful: this might be from the underwires if the cup is too small.)

The band feels unbearable when you inhale

Example: Bras I Hate measures as a 28 band, but prefers to wear a 30 band because she has these symptoms when wearing a 28 band.

Squishy/Soft Torso: Those who have a squishy torso/underbust (especially combined with large breasts) sometimes find that they need a band size down from their starting point size. A good way to test this is to take two different underbust measurements: the main "snug" measurement, and a "break-the-tape" (acting like you're trying to break the tape) measurement. If there is a large difference, and you have these symptoms, going down a band size may help.

Symptoms:

Chafing around the area the band rubs into

Band slides around all day, needing to readjust constantly

Back pain

Breasts don't feel supported

Example: Braless in Brasil has a squishy back from major weight loss and having kids, and prefers to size down when between sizes.

I don't have a very big difference between my snug measurement and my "break-the-tape" measurement (1.5 inches), so I'm more likely to benefit from using +0 or +2 for my band size. (Or, in my case, +1 or +3.) This is true for me: I generally wear a 28 band, but can sometimes wear a 30 if the band is tight. (The bra in this picture is a 30 band.)

Small or Wide Set/Shallow Breasts: Those with small or wide-set/shallow breasts sometimes find that they feel comfortable in a variety of band sizes (or just larger ones), and don't necessarily need the extra support that comes with a smaller band size. Those who are in that in-between size range (where they can fit into both full-bust and straight-sized bras) may also prefer to wear a more commonly-produced size, especially if they don't benefit from a tighter band. Some also find that their breast shape is more suited to the construction a larger band provides, particularly if their breasts are wide-set or shallow. If you're comfortable in a size that's very different from your starting size, then by all means, wear the size you want to wear! I do recommend at least trying the starting point size if you have a chance, just so that you have the knowledge of what it does for you, but ultimately it is up to you what size you want to wear.

Symptoms:

You've tried your starting point size, but it just didn't "wow" you like you (or others) thought it would.

You don't get any pain or discomfort from wearing a larger band.

You feel that you look/feel better (or the same) in a larger band size.

You find that the cups only fit your shape if you wear a larger band size.

Example: The Lingerie Lesbian measures as a 30 band, but prefers to wear a 34 band because the construction of a straight-size 34 band suits her shape better, and she doesn't feel the need for more band support.

Shallow breasts on a broad base: Those with shallow breasts (not necessarily small breasts) may find that the starting point size underestimates their cup size. This is because shallow breasts don't project very much (lack depth in the middle), so measuring around the largest point will not account for the rest of the breast tissue. It may help to try a cupsize or two up from your starting point size instead. (It may help to look at the breast shape vs bra shape (part 5) (link coming soon) part of this fitting guide.)

Symptoms:

Your bras often have extra room in the middle, even if they cut in on top.

Your starting point size's wires dig in to your breast tissue, even though the cup gapes/wrinkles.

Fitters often recommend a laughably small cup size. (careful: since most stores don't carry above a DD or DDD/F US (E UK), it's quite common for fitters to bring a size that's miles too small. However, if even the fitter notices that you need 1-3 cup sizes above what she originally thought, this can be an indicator of shallow breasts.)

Example: I have this breast type. I measure as a 28F, but in reality I need something between a 28FF and a 28G (and 30-band sister sizes). Bras are often too deep for me in the middle even when they cut in on top, and narrow wires often rest on my breast tissue.

This bra is a sister size of my starting point size, 28F = 30E = 32DD. Even with the extra band length, it's too small for me!

Deep, Pendulous Breasts: For pendulous or very deep breasts, the starting point size may overestimate the cup size, because they have a lot of projection while leaning over. Generally, these women may find that it's more helpful to take a few different overbust measurements (such as standing (with or without a bra, whichever one is bigger) and bending over) and average them out to get a better idea of what size they should try first. This is highly recommended if the difference between the standing and bending over measurements is greater than 4" or so.

Symptoms:

Your starting point size seems a lot bigger than it should be. (be careful: if you've spent years in the mindset of "DD = big boobs," anything above that might seem huge! Before deciding that the measuring tape overshot your cup size, be sure to visit the Bra Band project to see breasts the same size as the one you got (don't worry, they have bras on!) and /r/ABraThatFits's "Before/After sizes" thread. You may find that the size you measure as is not so absurd after all.)

You tried your starting point size and it was way too big (be careful: did you properly scoop yourself into the bra when you tried it on?)

Asymmetrical Breasts: I often get questions from women with asymmetrical breasts who are confused about which boob the starting point size will fit, or if it'll fit at all. And generally speaking, the starting point size should work well even for those with slightly asymmetrical breasts (it just may fit one boob better than the other). However, for those with very asymmetric breasts (at least a cup size difference), it may help to try measuring the perimeter of the larger breast instead (It's best to fit to the larger breast and pad the smaller one if desired), and compare the perimeter to cup depths for different bras on Bratabase. Here is a good guide to measuring breast perimeter (skip down to the "breast perimeter" section). For example, if you get 30 for your band size and 9.5" for your perimeter, and you notice that most 30F bras have a 9.5" depth, it would be a good idea to try a 30F.

Disabilities/Health Problems/Skin Sensitivity: Some people's comfort levels just don't allow for a tight band, due to skin sensitivities or other health problems or disabilities. This can also apply to elderly women (over 60 or so). In the case of illness or injury, it's sometimes a temporary problem, but it may be wise to get an extender or larger band to wear until you get better, especially if you'll be injured/sick for a while.

Some examples:

Rib cage injury

Back spasms

Highly sensitive skin

Old age

Respiratory illness such as Pneumonia

Recovery from some type of surgery

Be sure to read the other parts of this fitting guide so that you can get a well-rounded (pardon the pun) view of how a bra should fit!

Finding your starting point size

Exceptions to the starting point size

How to put on a bra correctly [Link coming soon]

Signs of a poor fit [Link coming soon]