#eyeshadow tutorial

1)     Start with a matte concealer. You can use an eyeshadow primer if you have one…but it’s basically just a concealer with another name. Like…you don’t need to spend money on two products if they function the same. A matte concealer will ensure your product won’t smudge and makes for a smooth surface to blend on. It typically keeps it from creasing or fading as much as it usually would without it. A dewy finish concealer will require you to have to “set” the concealer (basically using a nude color eyeshadow/powder to make the concealer matte). Priming the eyelid with a concealer will also make your eyeshadow look last longer throughout the time you’re wearing it. Make sure to find a concealer that fits your face color (something you already should have). Apply this concealer to the lid and to your undereye. A small line works but make sure you use enough product to cover the area you’re applying eyeshadow on. You can blend in the concealer with a brush, your fingers, or a beauty blender. I go with a beauty blender because it lays the concealer on seamlessly. Some people then apply a nude color eyeshadow right after to create a more blendable surface but I tend to find it dulls my colors and makes it harder for me to blend if I do that. That step is optional and if you want to try it go for it!

(*for reference I use the Almay Clear Complexion concealer)

2)    With a small, fluffy brush, apply your base color to your eyelid. (Make sure your brush is clean. Run the brush over a paper towel until it’s clean before applying your base color) You can use a small fluffy brush (depicted with the black handle or something close to it) or, as a pro tip, your ring finger is one of the best applicators you have and it’s free. Supposedly, your ring finger is supposed to be the softest of your fingers….idk if that’s true but I use my ring finger to apply my base color. Fingers are good to apply the colors but not so good at blending colors in. Brushes help a little better with blending.  Apply this color to the whole lid, from the outer v (the part of the eyelid furthest from your nose) to the inner corner (the part of your eye closest to your nose), and then from as close to the lashline as you possibly can and up, stopping when you get to the crease (the fold of your eyelid; on some, it’s harder to find but if you squint and watch how your eye folds, you can find the crease). I first use my finger to cover the whole lid up to the crease than go in with the small fluffy brush to blend the base color from my crease into my skin above it. I try not to go all the way up to my eyebrow with the color (I’m not fond of the looks with eyeshadow all the way up to my eyebrows but to each their own). It should look like a one gradient blend that goes from your skin color to the base color. Make sure it’s a tad darker at the outer v (the part farthest from the nose at the end of the eyes) Do the same with the other eye.

(Picture of the difference in size of my eyeshadow brushes so you know what I mean when I say black handled brush vs white handles brush)

(Pictured is the colors I use for reference. A very old Mary Kay and Ashley eye color and e.l.f. bite sized eyeshadow in Truffles)

3)     Before I move on to my next color, I use the smallest brushes I have (either the white handle fluffy brush or an eyebrow brush or an eyeliner brush [the difference between an eyebrow brush and an eyeliner brush is the width of the brush as shown, but both work the same to add a little color to the lower lid]) to add a little bit of the base color to my lower eyelid, going as close to the lash line as I possibly can. This comes in handy later because I like to add a bit of color on my lower eyelid to create a well rounded eye look. I try to blend this color from the outer v to the inner corner (until my lower lash line’s tear duct: the small hole on the lashline) I found it hard to take a picture to show. It’s not a thick bold line but a small one. But I did make a reference to how low I make it. 

4)     Using the next color (something darker than the base color), dip the very tip of your ring finger or the smallest fluffy you brush you have, into the color and lightly tap on from the outer v inwards. This way, it should blend into the existing color on the eyes. I do this until I blended the color into 3/4ths of my eyelid. Staying below the crease if I can help it and making sure to have a smooth blend by pressing/tapping it lightly into the eye. Always start from the outer v inwards towards your nose. That way the ends where you start will be darker than the inside of the eyelid.

5)     Using the small fluffy brush (the white handled size) use the same 2nd color, press into the eyeshadow, tap off a little excess and start from the outer v and blend a little of the darker color into your crease. Go slow or you make get some fall out. You’re just deepening the appearance of the crease. Follow along it and blend until it looks how you like. How far you blend that color into your crease totally depends on preference. I try to go for about….80% of the crease. Use a fluffy brush like the black handled one to blend it to look a little softer if it looks to harsh and darker than you want. 

6)     With the second color, apply a little to the lower lid like you did in step 3. This time, stopping a little bit sooner than where you place the base color. For me, I stop about halfway between my outer v and the tear duct.

7)     Now it’s time for the very last color, which is the darkest of the colors you have. For me….that’s black which is very scary to use because if you mess up….it….kinda shows. Take the tiniest bit on the very tip of your finger/smallest brush and lightly press into the outer v, slowly and carefully blend just a bit towards the inner corner but stopping just before where you ended the last color with. I barely do 1/4th of my eyes with the darkest color. And again, just the smallest bit to the lower lid, like the width of the brush you’re using or just the one dab from the tip of your finger. The smallest ever so small bit to blend like you did for the lower lid and for the lid itself. Blend until it’s too your liking. Also use this darker color to deepen your crease but not to far like you did in step 5. Use the same method as you did in that step to place a little shadow in the crease. 

8)     From this point, you can see if the gradient is to your liking or not. If it’s not, touch up by applying small bits of the first two colors, reserving the darkest color for when it’s really needed. And if you like it, you’re done!!! You can totally add a little bling by some glittery color on the innermost part of the lid or keep it how it is. I have some really creamy shimmery colors I use and I tend to add a little highlight to my inner corner. Before I add on the eyeliner and mascara.

But yeah! This is how I typically how I do my eyeshadow. This isn’t to say it’s the right way or the wrong way but it’s just a helpful aid tot hose who want it! If there’s a few parts that are unclear, don’t be afraid to shoot me a message and I can fix it!

Have fun with it and make it your own. Find colors and a combo of stuff you like and techniques that feel nice to use! Experiment and try it out and learn from error! That’s all that’s too it.

Hope it helps 😊

Use eyeliner, but use it with caution

Application of eyeliner can be tricky for most people, but just because you have hooded eyes doesn’t mean you need to avoid eyeliner altogether.  Eyeliner should be used with the uttermost caution and applied sparingly as not to overpower the eye. Even a small amount of eyeliner can appear to take up the entire lid space. Tightlining and waterlining are two techniques that work beautifully for hooded eyes as they take up no lid space and simply define the eyes and make the lashes look thicker. That being said, there is still room to experiment; try using an ultra-fine liquid liner to apply a thin line along the lashes. For a more elongated shape you can wing the eyeliner out or for a more rounded looking, larger eye; finish it off without winging it out. Smudged and softened eyeliner can also look great on this eye shape as it will create a more softer, natural looking eye rather than a harsh line with cuts off the eye. Pencil eyeliners can work great for this, and also gels which can easily be smudged out with a small brush.

Mascara is a must

Hooded eyes often need a little lift in the lash department, otherwise it can create a droopy effect. If you have hooded eyes you most likely have very voluminous lashes (ie: a lot of them) but not much length and lift. Ensure you curl your lashes prior to applying mascara and use a wiggling motion, starting at the base of the lashes when applying mascara for the most length and lift. It’s also important to choose a mascara which has great qualities and performs well. Try: Benefit They're Real Hourglass Caution Extreme Lashor Eyeko Skinny Mascara (pictured here)

Highlight above the brow, not below it Most eye makeup tutorials will often finish off the look with a highlighter applied along the brow bone to create a more lifted look, but this can often have the reverse effect on hooded eyelids as it draws attention to one of the eyelid areas with more skin. Instead of applying highlighter along the brow bone (which can also draw attention to any stray hairs!) try applying it ABOVE the brow. A light line of highlighter blended above the very arch of the brow can create a beautiful illusion of naturally lifted eyes and a well-defined brow.

SHOP THIS POST VIA OUR AFFILIATES Tartelette Toasted Eyeshadow Palette • Tarte HOURGLASS - Caution Extreme Lash Mascara - Ultra Black • Hourglass Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner • Stila Chantecaille Brow Lift E'clat • Chantecaille Smudgeproof Eyeshadow Base • NARS Eyeko Lengthening Skinny Brush Long & tall Mascara • Eyeko Benefit Cosmetics They're Real! Lengthening Mascara • Benefit Cosmetics

Story & Photography by: Evangeline Sarney