#eperon

Pilier Frendo

#swordfish #kilicbaligi #kılıçbalığı #eperon #ortakoy #fishesofistanbul #balık (at Ortaköy sahili)

We did a route on the east face of eperon. We did the route as a second option because we bailed on the Rebuffat Pierre because there had been a lot of rock fall and it all felt chossy and loose to access. The east face is a peculiar route! I led the first couple of pitches. The first pitch being up the ladder and then left along some pylon wire to a belay underneath the pylon! The second pitch was a pretty crap scramble which I just ran out to avoid any rope drag and save time. Fred did the third pitch which was a 5c aid pitch on bolts. It felt pretty hard on second and fred made a meal of the beginning bit too. The top bit was wet and quite unenjoyable! The next pitch was a really nice 30m 5b crack up to a notch. I didn't have big enough cans to get in the wide crack for the most part so I had to run it out a bit. I could have done with some size 3 cams. I managed to find some other opportunities for gear though and it was fairly simple climbing. I got a couple of fist jams in with my left hand at one point and was pulling a few bridging and Egyptian type moves but it was all good fun. The last pitch was just a short scramble to get us to the top which fred led. We then abseiled down as we had left our bags at the bottom and had to ab the first bit off one bolt. It was pretty solid though and the abseils were always within our 50m rope length so we got down safe. I didn't enjoy crossing the bergshrund much due to the thin unconsolidated snow. And we had an extremely windy ascent back up the midi ridge!