#emygrante

I met Nino Barraco himself at Victualler, a casual, off-the-beaten-track winebar and shop in Wapping, a wine portfolio filled with little gems of Natural, Organic and Biodynamic wines. The Tasting event organized by the UK specialized distributor Tuttowines, called “The Sea in a Glass” and you’ll understand why  reading further, has attracted a mixed crowd of loyal patrons working/ living in the Docklands and Sicilian nostalgics!He is one of those characters that to me immediately inspire trust and warmth. Witty and outspoken, his shy looks are somehow deceiving, hiding a strong character and will that have made him a passionate advocate for better, more natural practices in agriculture and winemaking. Do not mistake him for an idealist, he’s actually pragmatic as only a farmer could be. Looking at the world around him through the lenses of his camera, and through the filter of his political studies, has strengthened his search for fairness, for uniqueness, not perfection. A perfect world, a perfect life, a perfect wine: soon all these images became static, “spotless" became synonymous of artificial, fake, meaningless. 10 years on, and this is still the philosophy behind his wines. 

The winery as we know it today, was founded by Nino and his wife Angela in 2004. The original 7 ha property, inherited by their families, has now grown to 10 ha, directly owned and managed in the area of Marsala, on the western coast of Sicily: the soil is predominantly sandy with some limestone and pebbles. The vines are between 10 and 40 years old and the majority are grown in an alberello (bush tree) trellis system.Marsala is, of course, most famous for the fortified wine, characterized by a rich, smoky flavor, much of which comes from the oxidation during aging. Amazingly and amusingly because its color is so unique, Pantone, nowadays the supreme authority on color listed it as the color of the year 2015!

But, how do you steer away from what’s traditionally associated with your terroir, while still making wines that speak of it? For a long time, winemaking in Sicily aimed to make quantity over quality. Producing large quantities translates in making a uniformed product, that averages all the single and peculiar characters for the sake of standard-dom and recognizability. “ Universal wine does not (= should not) exist! There is no wine that’s always the same and perfect for all occasions. Wine changes every year: it’s unpredictable as the nature that makes it. All the choices I make are about following nature”. So, there it is: our starting point. In practice, it translates in evaluating the peculiarities of the territory, and adapt viticulture to nature and not the other way round. First of all, the grapes grown are all indigenous, which guarantees compatibility with the soil, the microclimate and the natural environment, but also more resilience against unfavorable weather conditions.The whites grown are Catarratto, Zibibbo and Grillo; the reds include Nero D’Avola and Pignatello also known as Perricone.

Next it comes the need to re-think vineyard management, enhancing biodiversity and promoting those practices that will concur to a healthy plant. For example, changing the ratio between the leaves and the grapes, by doing basically the opposite of what happened here in recent generations: the practice of leaving more leaves on the vine, as well as green harvest, are necessary for a good acidity featuring in the wines. Due to the vineyards’ proximity to the sea, the high temperatures and the hot scirocco winds blowing from the North Africa desert, the risk otherwise is to make unbalanced wines that would taste flat in your glass.“There are no bad nor good vines, just a bad or good interpretation. If we all embrace this idea, we can subvert the obsolete concept of vineyards or terroirs that are commercially valuable”.And this is revolutionary! Without attaching too many labels to it, viniculture becomes inspired by low-interventionism, organic agriculture and all the long-lost good practices that help limiting or, as in this case, excluding the use of chemicals throughout the process.To sum-up: local varieties, low intervention, sensible vineyard management and single-vineyard wines. Is this all it takes to make wines representative of a certain identity?!“Almost” - Nino cheerfully replies - “ but in reality, the work of a farmer like me is a full-time commitment, and a risky business! It’s not an exact science, it’s more like: you have only one shot per year, no safety net, no second chances. And the feedback you have from wines is a long-term confirmation that the efforts you made back then, were positive."

Südtirol/Alto Adige is for many reasons one of the most fascinating regions in Southern Europe: it's where the German cultural sphere meets the Italian, where the mountains crack into fertile valleys, where the Mediterranean influences soothe Continental Climate.

Imagine a landscape of steep sun-kissed terraced slops, swept by brisk Alpine air, standing against snow-covered mountains, which not only serve as postcard-perfect backdrop, but also protect the vineyards from cold, damaging winds. The region is blessed with more than 300 days of sunshine, a wide day-night temperature range and an average growing season temperature of over 18° C, and sufficient precipitations, ideal conditions for growing high quality grapes.

QUALITY WINEMAKING ROOTED IN HISTORY

Archaeological excavations indicate the existence of viticulture could date back as far back as the Iron Age, proving this is one of the oldest wine producing regions in Europe. In 15 BC when the Romans first ventured into the region, they discovered locals storing wine in wooden vessels, while they themselves still used leather bags or amphorae. It continued throughout the Middle Ages and advanced thanks to the devoted care and industry of monasteries. Under the Hapsburg Empire, winegrowing in Alto Adige expanded, with the introduction of international varieties like Riesling and Burgundian grapes.

Today, there are around 5,000 winegrowers tending 5,300 ha of vineyards. Thirteen cooperative wineries produce almost 72% of the region’s wine. A typical cooperative will have several hundred members, each of whom individually cultivates a plot that, on average, is less than 2.5 acres..

The remaining 30% is produced by wine estates and independent winegrowers.

Even though it is one of Italy’s smallest viticultural areas and represents less than 1% of total production, Alto Adige leads the country in quality with 98.8% of vineyards under DOC designation, quite a unique scenario, as the proportion is typically between 5% (Apuglia) and 40% (Piedmont).

The Alto Adige DOC, which covers the majority of wines made here, was granted in 1975 and is sub-divided to district and commune level, creating more than 30 possible provenance statements, each with Italian and German versions.

Discerning wine drinkers have recently rediscovered Südtirol/Alto Adige as a source of elegant and aromatic white wines, the type of wine which only the mixture of southern sun and crisp Alpine air can produce. The red wines, also much sought after because of their succulent fruit and velvety tannins are characterized by fruit rather than austerity.

Unique terroir, high quality wines, authentic varietal character.

The geological composition of Alto Adige’s winegrowing area is a broad spectrum of soils often varying from one vineyard to another. On the many slopes and terraces, moraine deposits predominate, and soil content ranges from volcanic porphyry (in Merano, Bolzano, and Kaltern) to weathered primitive rock soils composed of quartz and mica (the Isarco Valley) to limestone and dolomite (the Bassa Atesina) to sandy marl (south of Kurtatsch), offering just the right underlayer to each grape variety.

The different vineyard altitudes also provides a mosaic of microclimates. The Alps protect the region from inclement weather from the north, leaving the central valleys open towards the south and the Mediterranean. The Adige Valley has an extremely warm climate considering its latitude. However, the “Ora,” a dry, cooling wind from Lake Garda, tempers the hot summer days.

Hence, producers grow an extensive range of grapes, more than 20 in total: in addition to the indigenous varieties of Lagrein and Vernatsch, the key wine grapes used in Alto Adige are a combination of Germanic varieties, which reflect its history as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and 'international' varieties, mostly of French origin. The warmer Adige Valley provides ideal growing conditions for heat-loving vines such as Lagrein and Cabernet Sauvignon, while white grapes and Pinot Nero produce best results at higher altitudes on the mid-mountainsides.

White grape varieties - known for being fresh, minerally and well-structured - account for 60% of the vineyard area in Alto Adige. Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, and Pinot Bianco dominate, while Sauvignon Blanc enjoys increasing success. The aromatic, spicy Gewürztraminer variety — that got its name from the village of Tramin — is indigenous to the region and has a special place in Alto Adige winemaking. Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Veltliner and Riesling grow primarily in the cooler sites, and along with Moscato Giallo, are seeing increasing popularity.

Among red varieties in Alto Adige, the native Schiava grape variety dominates, accounting for around 25% of total vineyard area. The velvety Lagrein, another native variety, is also widely planted. For over a century the noble Bordeaux and Burgundy black varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir have been planted in Alto Adige. Malvasier and Moscato Rosa, while rare, complete the red varietal assortment.

Specifications:

Main DOC appellation: Alto Adige DOC, established in 1975

DOC Sub-appellations:

Alto Adige Santa Maddalena

Alto Adige Meranese

Alto Adige Colli di Bolzano

Lago di Caldaro

Alto Adige Valle Isarco

Alto Adige Terlano

Alto Adige Val Venosta

IGT appellations:

IGT delle Venezie (inter-regional)

Mitterberg

Vigneti delle Dolomiti or Weinberg Dolomiten

Total Vineyard area: 5,250 hectars.

Vineyard Altitude: 180mt to 1000mt a.s.l.

Soils: Mainly porphyry, limestone and slate rock with glacial deposits of gravel, sand and clay

Climate: Sunshine 300 days, Annual Rainfall 500 – 800 mm per annum

Number of Wineries Over 150 in total including 13 cooperatives, 40 larger wine estates and over 100 private wine producing winegrowers

Total production of DOC wines 2013: 345,791 hl

Export share 1/3 of production Main export markets 1. Germany 2. Switzerland 3. United States

Grape Varieties 60% white varieties and 40% red varieties

Main White varieties: Pinot Grigio (11.74%), Gewürztraminer (10.91%), Chardonnay (9.99%), Pinot Blanc (9.73%), Sauvignon Blanc (6.69%), Müller-Thurgau (4.16%), Sylvaner (1.30%), Moscato Giallo (1.64%), Kerner (1.67%), Riesling (1.19%), Veltliner (0.50%), Riesling Italico (0%)

Main Red varieties: Schiava (16.98%), Lagrein (8.46%), Pinot Noir (7.61%), Merlot (3.60%) Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc (3.08%), Moscato Rosa (0.29%), Malvasier (0.02%)

Styles and Wine Composition:

·      WHITE WINES

Bianco/Weiss: Minimum 75% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Grigio (at least two of the three; maximum 70% of any one); maximum 25% Gewürztraminer, Kerner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and/or Sylvaner Verde.

Bianco from subzone Terlano only: Minimum 50% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco; maximum 50% Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sylvaner Verde, Welschriesling, and/or Pinot Grigio; maximum 15% other local white grapes.

 Mono Varietal: Minimum 85% Varietal wine + 15% other local white grapes.

Dual varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, or Pinot Grigio: 50–84% of first-named variety; 16–50% of other variety;

 ·      ROSATO WINES

Minimum 85% Varietal wine (Lagrein, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Moscato Rosa) + 15% other local red grapes.

 ·      RED WINES

Mono Varietal: Minimum 85% Varietal wine + 15% other local red grapes.

Dual varietals: Cabernet, Lagrein, or Merlot: 50–84% of first-named variety; 16–50% of other variety (“Cabernet” can mean any proportions of Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon)

Klausner Laitacher from subzone Valle Isarco only : any proportions of Lagrein, Pinot Nero, Portoghese, and/or Schiava

·      SPARKLING WINES

Any proportions of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and/or Pinot Nero

Varietal Spumante only: Minimum 85% Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, or Pinot Nero + other local red grapes.

Spumante Rosé: Minimum 20% Pinot Nero; maximum 80% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco.

Spumante wines must undergo second fermentation in bottles (Metodo Classico), and in terms of residual sugar cannot be sweeter than brut.

Ageing: minimum 20 months, including 15 months on the lees (ERD = June 1, V+2); for nonsparkling Riserva, minimum 2 years (ERD = October 1, V+2); for Spumante Riserva, minimum 42 months, including 36 months on the lees (ERD = April 1, V+4)

·      DESSERT AND SPECIALTY WINES

Vendemmia Tardiva: Same as Bianco, white varietals, or varietal Moscato Rosa

Passito: Same as Bianco, white varietals except Welschriesling, or Moscato Rosa.

Grapes for Passito must be dried on or off the vine to achieve a minimum potential alcohol level of 16.0%

Aging: For Passito, minimum approx. 7 months (ERD = June 1, V+1);

Minimum alcohol level:

7.0% for Vendemmia Tardiva (13.5% potential);

7.0% for Passito, 10.0% for Moscato Rosa Passito (16.0% potential);

10.0% for Moscato Giallo (11.0% potential);

10.5% for Schiava Gentile, Schiava Grossa, and Veltliner;

There's a new entry on my already long list of guilty pleasures, the robust texture and smokey flavor of Jerusalem Artichoke. 

The "Helianthus tuberosus", also called sunroot, sunchoke, earth apple or topinambour, is a species of sunflower native to eastern North America, cultivated widely across the temperate zone for its tuber, which is commonly used as a root vegetable. The mysterious name has apparently little to do with the geographical provenance, wikipedia handily points out it might derive from the Italian word for the garden sunflower, girasole, due to their resemblance and genealogy. 

It looks vaguely like ginger root in its appearance and has gnarly stems and a pale brown skin.

The JA tubers use the carbohydrate inulin as a means of storing energy instead of the more notorious starch. Inulin is not digested by enzymes in the human alimentary system, contributing to its functional properties: reduced calorie value, dietary fiber and prebiotic effects. Also, they are a great source of iron, potassium and thiamin.

More Nutrition facts can be found on: http://nutritiondata.self.com/facts/vegetables-and-vegetable-products/2456/2

But if not for its nutritional properties, one has to love JA for its culinary abilities: - sweet-nutty-smokey flavor

- firm crunchy structure

- versatile, use raw, braised, boiled, roasted..

- elegant addition to other root and tubers (add to potatoes for a tasty twist)

Try it raw — shaved thinly as in a salad, with a drizzle of olive oil and a blanket of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Sliced and braised in butter it makes a tasty ingredient in risottos and soups. 

As a comfort food in the cold winter months, I personally often enjoy a Jerusalem artichoke soup: start with a base of light soffritto of yellow onion and celery: add the artichoke and the potatoes, 1:1 weight ratio, simmer before starting to add the broth (I especially use vegetable stock). Process until smooth.

Since ancient times, Italy has been renown as the land of wine: over the centuries the Greeks, Etruscans and Romans all played a significant role in the development of wine production, helping establishing a vivid and varied wine culture that has grown consistently till present days. Italy is in fact one of the top two leading wine producers in the world, competing with France for this title year on year: vine cultivation thrives in every region, the wines are successfully exported worldwide and Italians also consume the most wine of any country in the world pro capita.

Generally natural factors as the favourable climate, with plenty of sunshine, cooler mountain air and sea breezes to provide ventilation, made it possible to produce quality wines almost in each corner of the country. The diffent soil and terrain structure that vary hugely from region to region give Italy more than 2000 indigenous grapes, the largest and most diverse array of wines in the world.

Diverse Wine Regions, Indigenous grapes, a varied scenario.

Known collectively as the 'Tre Venezie', Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia boast the most superior wine technology and host two of the country's leading enological schools: San Michele all'Adige in Trentino and Conegliano in Veneto. It also houses the world's largest vine nursery in Rauscedo (Friuli). Prosecco and Pinot Grigio are the most renown internationally, but the reds of Valpolicella, the Whites of Friuli Venezia Giulia and the sharp wines of Trentino are among the nation's Classics!

The five regions in the north-west, Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Piedmont, Liguria and Valle d'Aosta Valley together account for 20% of Italy's total production and approximately 30% of the recognised DOCs. The ever-popular Lambrusco, the noble Barolo and the other Nebbiolo-based wines, the sofisticated bubbles of Franciacorta are all produced in this part of Italy.

Tuscany, Lazio, Umbria, Marche, Abruzzo and Molise produce together less than a quarter of Italy's wines but account for a third of its DOCs or DOCGs. According to many, this area benefits from the best wine growing conditions, the ideal terroir for the famous Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Cervaro, etc.

The Southern regions of Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria and the islands of Sicily and Sardinia produce around 40 per cent of the country's total production but account for less than 7 per cent of its DOCs.AMong some of the most exotic names e famous wines of this region include: Fiano di Avellino, Salento Primitivo, Aglianico del Vulture, Cirò, Marsala, Nero d'Avola, Cannonau, Sulcis & Vermentino di Gallura.

Regardless the complexity of the picture, it was only in 1963 that a comprehensive wine law was enforced in Italy to definy and regulate the country's grape varietals, their processing, aging and bottling. The introduction of the Denomination of Origin laws, shaped after the highly respected Fance Appellations Controlees, stated by law what could and what shouldn't be done within a given territory of origin, gave a structure to local winemaking traditions with the result of boosting quality and general consumer awareness.

Up to this day we count:

118 IGT, including 4 inter-regional: Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Typical Geographic Indication, IGT).

This appellation, instituted in 1992, falls between Vino da Tavola and Denomination of Controlled Origin. The wine's label must declare its specific region and may cite varietal type and vintage. Growers or regional governments are required to apply for IGT status just as they do for a DOC or DOCG appellation

330 DOC, including 9 inter-regional: Denominazione di Origine Controllata (Controlled Designation of Origin) This appellation imposes restrictions on the use of grape varieties, permitted yields, alcohol levels, ageing specifications and processing techniques. Labels bearing this appellation must state their zone of origin and the wines are required to meet certain production standards. Only approved methods of planting, cultivating and fertilizing can be employed, for example.Maximum yields are controlled, as are bottling specifications.

73 DOCG, including 1 inter-regional: Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) This is the highest appellation and embraces all DOC assurances and further requires the producer to guarantee everything claimed on the wine's label: zone of origin, net contents, name of grower and bottler, place of bottling and product's alcohol strength. A further difference is that DOCG labelled wines are analysed and tasted by government–licensed inspecting boards before being bottled and to prevent later manipulation, DOCG wine bottles are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.

It is a complex scenario, Italian wine regulations are not that user-friendly, with some difficult names to spell and remember: but variety should never be deemed as an obstacle, but as an opportunity instead. Let's just start tasting, as any winelover would say, knowledge comes with practice!