#diliborio

@fulviomaianiblog

@piajohansson

@fulviomaianiblog

@justinemattera

@piajohansson

Paris, October 2016

The world of Liborio Capizzi is all about opposing extremities; juxtaposing delicate chiffons with sensual latex fabrics and balancing rock and roll glamour with the new romanticism of the early 80’s. He is a subversive, and unapologetically so, and his AW16 collection pays homage to the gothic theatricality that his fans have come to expect.

“Transgenia," the Italian couturier’s latest offering, encapsulates the reckless abandon and decadence of Di Liborio’s universe. Handkerchief collar blouses, structured peplum jackets in glistening fabrics, and tough outerwear pieces adorned with heavy leather straps and silver buckles. It is a riotous embrace of all things underground; an exploration of your deepest darkest fantasies, translated beautifully into victorian blouses and moody outerwear.

His aesthetic is playful but unnerving. Opulent furs were adorned onto a streetwear inspired leather drawstring hoodie, a blush latex bomber was worn over a fragile chiffon top; both exhibiting Di Liborio’s masterful sense of combining opposing textures to remarkable effect.  Some of the more striking chiffon blouses were nostalgic and reflected the Victorian leanings across the runways of London and Milan. One look that featured a dramatic blush ruffled high-neck, in which every single panel was ornamented with an undulating ruffle, was an exceptional example of Di Liborio’s costume making background and couture sensibilities.

And while the rest of Milan is riding the wave of quirky feminism that has dominated the runways, Di Liborio’s intimate presentation serves as a novel transgression into darker territories. The pieces were displayed in dimly lit black cases, overlaid with graphic projections of the very same pieces reimagined as brightly coloured neon fantasies. It was a hallucination; a trip down the rabbit hole  and into the mind of Liborio Capizzi to witness how his creations were conceived.

Mariuccia Casadio has said that Transgenia is all about “Genders that meet and clash, that refuse and attract one another in a perverse, exciting, explosive game of threat and seduction”.  If this is the case, it is clear that beyond the eternal clashing of opposing fabrics, textures, and ornamentation, Di Liborio succeeds in creating beautiful clothes that feel like they should be worn in secret, with a lover, and in a perpetual state of voyeurism.

Check out the video below for a sneak peek of their latest collection. 

TWENTY6 X

photos and video courtesy of POP PR