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David Fin Ties

“Courtesy Of” is a series on This Fits in which I write about products that have been gifted to me for review. While I strive to be objective, I think it’s fairer to you, the readers, if I disclose when I’ve received merchandise for free.

Funny thing about my interview with David Herzka: I came prepared with a dozen questions, but he answered most of them in a breathless, extended introduction while I desperately scribbled down notes (my audio recorder unfortunately failed). With someone else that could be annoying, but I was charmed by the young entrepreneur, who's obviously bursting with enthusiasm for his venture, David Fin Ties.

Born and raised in New York City, David has a lifelong interest in fine menswear--while a teenager, he dabbled in sewing and developed an appreciation for fabric texture and hand feel by visiting textile stores. Although college led him to a job at his family's Wall Street firm, a vacation in Como, Italy nudged David toward his current path. Laying claim to the title "silk capital of the world", Como's mills provide fabric for many high-end neckwear brands: think Marinella, Brioni, Charvet. Coming home inspired, David started designing his own ties.

A year and a half ago, he took a serious look at launching a necktie business. Specifically, David wanted to see if he could make ties whose quality and design would normally suggest a $150+ retail tag, but then bring that price down to half by selling direct-to-consumer. He spent a year developing the business and product. "It takes a lot more work than you think," David mused when I asked what he learned in that year about starting a business. "And you have to do a lot yourself."

That work included dissecting a hundred brand-name ties to better understand how they're put together. His laborious research yielded a crucial insight: often the real difference-maker in a quality tie is the interlining, that is, the stiffer interior fabric that a tie's outer shell is wrapped around. While many in online menswear circles clamor for unlined ties, David recognized that he'd need a good interlining for a product that appeals to a broader market. Although not visible, the shape and material composition of an interlining plays a big role in how a tie knots up. David spent considerable time looking for the right lining, but found all the ones offered by American tie factories or exported by Italian vendors had neither the right shape nor the all-wool fabric content that he sought. He even noted that several labelled "100% wool" turned out to be blends when he had them lab-tested.

Eventually he went straight to the source, flying to Italy to visit with the lining maker for a number of well-regarded luxury brands, and partnering to develop custom-shaped, 100% wool linings. He has the linings shipped to a NYC-based factory (which David asserts is the best of the best), along with silk, cotton, and wool fabrics from small family-owned mills in Como. These are sewn into ties using a tipped three-fold construction that David describes as "fully handmade".

The brand launched in December 2014, and the response has been phenomenal: hundreds of ties have sold, with a return rate of less than 2%. In April, David left his job to make David Fin Ties a full-time venture.

David kindly let me choose a handful of samples from www.davidfin.com to review. This turned out to be rather difficult, as the array of designs available is consistently tasteful--David has a great story about how he got complimented on his tie at Pitti Uomo and was asked if it was from Drakes. Along with a year-round supply of grenadines in both fina and grossa weaves, David Fin Ties carries seasonal fabrics such as cotton and wool. I think it’s worth noting here that David doesn’t source the tie fabric from stock and leftovers; all are custom-designed and woven exclusively for David Fin.

I ultimately decided on trying all three in navy: a silk grenadine, a cotton summer tie, and a wool-silk tie appropriate for fall.

The ties arrived in handsome slide-out packaging, reminiscent of Louis Vuitton. All three measure 58″ long and 3.25″ at the widest--just about perfect dimensions, in my book.

I had to try the “Is that Drakes?” floral cotton tie first. The fabric appears to be a pique weave, like you’d find on a polo shirt. It has a texture and surprising springiness quite unlike any cotton tie I’ve handled. I like it.

The “filolao” grenadine is a fina weave, with a color a few shades lighter than true navy. It ties a thick knot, and I find I have to forgo my preferred double four-in-hand for a regular four-in-hand. David tells me I received an older model that supplements the wool lining with a cotton lining. The current in-stock grenadines no longer have the additional cotton lining, and use an all-new wool lining with a lighter feel.

My favorite of the three is the floral wool & silk. It’s got great texture and reassuring thickness, but still knots up beautifully with little effort.

While one can respect the passion and persistence that David puts into making the best possible product, even he admits that he's wondered: does the world really need yet another tie brand? A meeting with a friend who'd recently returned from Afghanistan answered that question, and turned his business from a passion to a mission.

David's friend spoke at length about the difficulties many veterans face transitioning to civilian life, especially in seeking employment. As David recounted the story and subsequent discussions with other veterans, I was struck by how he spoke just as passionately and knowledgeably about veteran's issues as he did about neckwear. Eager to help, he's taken a threefold approach to making a difference.

First, David's committed to donating $5 from each tie sold to furthering veteran employment. He looked into several veteran organizations before settling on Hiring our Heroes, an initiative affiliated with the US Chamber of Commerce that helps vets find meaningful employment opportunities. So far, David Fin Ties has helped employ hundreds of veterans through the partnership.

Second, David added camo tipping inside the reverse of the blade as a reminder to the wearer of the brand's mission.

This connects to the third thrust: David's efforts in promoting the brand have given him the opportunity to raise the topic of veterans' employment as he reaches out to influencers, including Berkshire Hathaway’s Charlie Munger, New York City mayor Bill DeBlasio, and even Lt. Dan himself. All three, and many others, own and wear David Fin ties.

David's focus over the next few months is continuing to promote the brand through in-person trunk shows, collaborations, and corporate gifting programs. Along with bow ties and pocket squares, this fall David plans to be the only American company producing hand-printed satin ties.

To see the entire David Fin collection, visit www.davidfin.com.

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