chinese fashion by 山竹

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chinese fashion by 山竹

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Hi, on your timeline post (/post/137919488747/nannaia-evolution-of-chinese-clothing-and7), what would you call the top in figure 17? Thank you.
Hi! Thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply!
In the post you're referring to here, the top in figure 17 is an "ao/袄", which is a Chinese term for a lined upper garment. Garments referred to as ao were worn throughout Chinese history, although they varied in appearance and construction during different time periods. The figure depicts ao in the style of the 1920s, aka early Minguo/Republican era. Below - painting and photo of young women in 1920s China:
If you want to be more specific, this particular top is a waist-length "duan ao/çźč˘„" (short ao), as opposed to a "chang ao/长袄" (long ao) that can go past the knees. It has a particular sleeve shape popular during 1920s Minguo China called "daodaxiu/倒大袖", lit. “reverse wide sleeves”, referring to half length or shorter sleeves that become wider at the bottom. Below - 1920s daodaxiu ao from Suzhou (1/2):
Daodaxiu ao were worn with qun/skirts (aoqun/袄裙) or ku/pants (aoku/袄裤). @audreydoeskaren discusses the history and development of daodaxiu in her post on 1920s Chinese fashion here. Below - 1920s-style daodaxiu aoqun outfits (x):
Qipao could also have daodaxiu sleeves. Below - 1920s-style daodaxiu qipao outfits (x):
For more in-depth analysis, please check out this post by @audreydoeskaren reviewing several of the outfits depicted in the fashion timeline, including this one. For more references on daodaxiu ao, please check out my daodaxiu and minguo aoqun tags.
Finally, below are a few daodaxiu aoqun from various shops that I particularly like (1/2/3/4/5/6/7/8):
Hope this helps! ^^
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Please note that whether the fashion of this era can be referred to as an AoQun (a type of hanfu) is highly questionable, as the presence of hanfu in the mainstream fashion beyond the Ming Dynasty has been, firstly banned by the Qing government, and secondly those few that remained has been so heavily influenced by Manchurian fashion to the point that arguably it has lost too many distinctive hanfu characteristics to be considered an AoQun. Â
For example, referring to the clothes in the picture, there is a lack of the presence of a zhongfeng, which is widely considered a distinguishing characteristic of hanfu today. So whether these are considered hanfu is still up to debate, for now at least.Â
P.S. for people who are new to this, please be aware that it is widely agreed that there are certain characteristics that hanfu must possess in order to be considered hanfu. Not all clothing worn by the Han Chinese people are considered hanfu… We wear jeans as well but those are clearly not hanfu are they…?
Yes, all good points! The modern Hanfu movement does not consider the Aoqun beyond the Ming dynasty to be Hanfu, for the reason you mentioned - it was heavily influenced by Manchurian fashion to the point that it became arguably too changed (including the lack of zhongfeng, aka center seam).
For comparison - here’s a Ming dynasty Aoqun, which is considered the “classic” style of Hanfu Aoqun:
And here’s a Republican-era Aoqun. Note the differences in the collars & sleeves, among others: