Crochet Experiment Diaries: Papillon Top to Dress - 1
Papillon Pattern here!
artist credit: @ Wood & Yarn on Youtube
The Plan:
This really is a straightforward pattern, beginner friendly, and expertly explained! Guarantee I will be making this shirt just as it is! but a note from the creator herself: the length can be made into a dress! Which I think would be absolutely adorable! But I prefer a more fitted/regular fit top to a very flowy skirt (A-line or circle skirt). I worry that making this straight on as she designed would look baggy on me. So! Experiment time!
The Method:
This pattern follows the principle of chevron crochet where there are strategic increases and decreases to bring things to a point.
((diagram of the construction - geometry lesson time))
However, instead of decreasing at the "trough" points (which would be the seams) you just crochet a straight row. this is what makes the garment expand and flow.
geometry lesson: where you increase at a single point down a garment, it will create a point if you're crocheting the garment from the top down, assumung the stitches in between the increases remain the same. in this garment, the seam lines drawn are theoretical, as it is the point where the pieces join (see grey areas contact point).
In theory, my proposed dress pattern (see far right for concept) can be achieved by the following method:
the increase rows stay the same, as I want to keep that chevron pattern. however, where those red lines are, (denoting the theoretical seams) I would do a decrease instead of an increase. the pattern calls for 3 stitches in an increase. That means 1 increase adds 2 more stitches to each side of the "increase" seam.
Doing math, that means at every point you hit the "theoretical seam" you have an opportunity to decrease 2 stitches to make the garment go longer without going outward. Whether this means joining 3 stitches together so it'll read as one stitch at the theoretical seam in the next row, or decreasing normally twice, doesn't matter. Though for aesthetic purposes, I will probably join 3 stitch decrease to make a visible seam.
The pattern as it is calls for a direct continuation from one pannel to the next when joining them (no slip stitch). that means that seam is truly invisible and in between 2 stitches. To achieve the 3 stitch decrease and have it be neat and symmetrical, when make the join row, I will probably do it like so:
Join row: line up your 4 pieces so the stitch slant in the last row is the same. [crochet to peak, 3 stitch increase, crochet to the end of row.. Take next triangle part and 2 stitch increase in first stitch.] Repeat 3 times. slip stitch to join row, chain # for height of next row and Turn.
Alternative:
Joining the pieces: line up your 4 pieces so the stitch slant in the last row is the same. Using the tails of your spare pieces, attach them corner to corner (ch 1 and slip stitch/ tying them, both is fine) making sure there is no twisting. Join row: [crochet to peak, 3 stitch increase, crochet to the end of row. once you reach the join slip stitch or knot space, insert one stitch in that space.] Repeat 3 times. slip stitch to join last stitch to the behining chians. chain # for height of next row and Turn.
To keep track of this row of potential decreases I use stitch markers. The BEST stitch markers for seams like this (ones that are not visible by other means otherwise) in my opinion are very long scrap pieces of yarn. You weave them in every time you pass over them so it looks like a running stitch down the garment. Shows you the precise line and reveals any "leaning."
Side note about my body type.
My body dimensions (inches): 45, 39, 48 -DDD/E
2 things to consider: decrease only at the back panels center seam to keep it straight so theres not a lot of excess fabric in finished product maybe? And how much do I need to let it go out to make room and cover my chest without being baggy? theoretically I will be crocheting to the "peaks" as it were on the shirt, then go start my decrease seams to make it go longer without going outward, and then just increase again once I reach about my waist. If I want it to curve in really dramatic, I'll sneak in an extra 2 stitch decrease in the middle of each side of the chevron
These things will be something I figure out after I finish the top as originally designed! Remember: if you don't like something that you've crocheted, you can usually unravel/salvage it! That honestly is where most of my personal anxiety is: worrying I will waste materials and by hating my final product.
Just think! Itll be a waste either way if you don't use it ever. So if you're not going to use it, be sure its because you have alternate materials on hand or have something better, not because you're worried about waste. Because no crafting is waste - even failures and experiments.
Materials:
Hook: 4mm (G) Clover Soft Touch
Yarn: 100% Pima Cotton 2/50*9 DK weight in color "Dark Current" (DEADSTOCK from Cone&Fiber)
Stitch Modifications: Half Double Crochet (HDC) to make the fabric more dense/less see through.
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I will check in again soon! Have a fun and creative summer day! <3
-Morbid 🐰
Disclaimer:
I have the utmost respect to all creators, their work, and their creations. This is an experiment to make this fit my body type/assets in a flattering way. I have larger/abnormal measurements at times which make crochet wearables hard to make, so modification is very commonplace when I crochet. Many crochet wearables like sweaters, shirts, dresses, etc are usually modeled on a particular body type. If this is the case or has no sizing instructions/limited sizing direction, I am always curious to figure out a way to modify up or down, and hope to help others do so as well with this series. This is a documentation of the modification process, and does not represent any creator or their work negatively. Their work is the inspiration, and the intention is to use their pattern as reference while crediting. I know is to Body image/type is a dicy topic, so there will be no toleration of body shaming/negative commentary. Furthermore, not all crochet creators design for various sizes or body types, and thats OKAY! Designers already do so much work designing and testing patterns, modeling them, and even filming tutorials sometimes. They are not large companies with a team of experts/endless resources. They may only do this in their free time. BE RESPECTFUL <3
